The Rolex Tridor Rolex 18039 B is an interesting twist to the Day-Date launched in 1977. As the most prestigious of Rolex dress watches, the Day-Date family of watches is only made in all solid 18k yellow, rose or white gold or platinum.
To make the watch unique, the Tridor version was actually crafted using three different types of gold offering a very unique 3 tones look. Since Tridor is a gold blend, all Tridor watches are made in full gold. This includes every single part of the watch, from the bracelet to the case.
The first Tridor was based on the ref 18039, which was the full white gold Day-Date 36 that the company produced at the time. By changing the Rolex 18039 bezel from white to yellow gold and adding a Tridor President bracelet, Rolex was able to achieve a luxury watch made in full gold with a truly unique appearance. The model 18039/18239B was produced from the early 1980s to the late 1990s.
To further elaborate on the ref. 18239b , Rolex used the finest 18k white gold to construct the case and bracelet. The Tridor versions of the watch feature a yellow gold fluted bezel, while the standard version is completely finished in 18k white gold. The President bracelet is exclusive to the Day-Date collection, except for a handful of midsize and Lady-Datejust models. It features semi-circular links that hug the wrist nicely and a concealed Crown clasp that is virtually hidden from the rest of the links, aside from the tell-tale Rolex coronet. In the case of the Tridor, the case is made of white gold, the outer ring is 18K yellow gold, the outside of the presidential bracelet is also white gold, and the center bracelet is made of 18K rose gold/ Composed of platinum and gold.
The Tridor was given the reference 18039B. The earlier version is ref 18039B with a single quick set while the later version is 18239B offering double quick set. One point to note is that the crown on the Rolex Tridor dial is always white gold crown in colour and never gold crown.
It is interesting to note that Rolex has been experimenting different blending and fusion of gold even during the 1930-40s with the Rolex Prince Zebra and the hooded bubbleback below. As such, the Rolex Tridor naturally captured my attention.
The Rolex 18239b was launched in 1989 with caliber 3155, which replaced the single-quickset caliber 3055) which allows the wearer to adjust the day and the date individually without having to change the time which is a very practical function to have.
The outer semi-circular links of the iconic President bracelet of the ref. 18239 is made of 18k white gold to match the case, however, the center links were fashioned from a blend of 18k pink, yellow, and white gold. Unlike the Rolesor where the metals are fully blended together, this Tridor took a different approach. The stripes of the multicoloured gold were meticulously fused together to produce perfectly straight lines running through the entire length of the bracelet.
I have finally able to find one of the earliest Tridor from 1989 and it is most probably my last watch for the year 2023. One way to tell if the watch is an earlier batch or the later one is to look at the dial T SWISS T is from 1989-97. After 1998, the dial will be T SWISS MADE T. The 36mm watch houses a nice Roman numerals salmon dial.
This watch is made for the real watch connoisseur, but it was not a popular model during that period as many consumers prefers full solid yellow gold as this yellow gold bezel and white gold case plus the white gold bracelet with centered gold has created an impression of it being a gold and steel watch. There are those who love to wear a solid gold watch as a status symbol will definitely avoid these watches. Due to the complicated production process as well, it eventually ended up being discontinued.
The watch was powered by the Rolex Caliber 3155 with the quickset date function, thus allowing both the day at the 12 o’clock position and the date window at 3 o’clock to be changed without manipulating the minute hand. The Tridor was eventually discontinued in the early 2000s and today, it gives us a glimpse into a style that was very in vogue a few decades ago. I have sent the watch to Rolex center for servicing.
For those who is keen to know how heavy is the watch? The watch itself is rather heavy as it weighs about 150 grams. I hope to be able to find mother Tridor with diamonds markers and special MOP dial.
Summary of Rolex Tridor models
- 18039BIC – Produced between 1977 and 1990
- 18129BIC – Produced between 1985 and 1990 (and 18039 with diamond-set bezel)
- 18239BIC – Produced between 1989 and 2000
- 18349BIC – Produced between 1989 and 2000 (available with Tridor President bracelet or two-tone Jubilee bracelet with diamond-set middle links)
