The early octagonal Rolex Oyster, launched in 1926, is the historical design that established the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. Featuring a pioneering three-piece screwed-down system and an innovative crown, these 32mm Art Deco pieces came in early coin edged bezel alongside wire-style lugs.
The case has weathered the test of time, but its sharp octagonal shape resembles a geometric poem meticulously sculpted by time. Employing a three-piece case construction with fixed linear lugs, it measures approximately 32 to 33 mm with a diagonal span of 38 to 39 mm. Its distinct angles and unique shape seem to solidify time itself into a three-dimensional work of art.
* Sealing: The coin-edge (grooved) screw-down bezel and case back require specialized tools to tighten into the middle case, creating a tight waterproof seal.
* Iconic Design: The large knurled screw-down crown is the most recognizable visual feature of the early Rolex Oyster patent system. This octagonal timepiece debuted alongside the classic cushion-shaped Oyster watch, available in both stainless steel and 9K gold (including yellow and pink gold versions), together writing a legendary prologue to the Oyster family. The angular design, distinct from contemporary classics, reveals the brand's pioneering spirit of bold experimentation in its early days.
A closer look at the dial reveals two main categories: enamel and metal. The latter's advantage lies in its ability to effectively prevent the hairline cracks that develop in enamel over time.
Above the small seconds subdial, the prominent inscription "ULTRA PRIMA" is engraved. Going back to the 1920s and 1930s, Rolex used three grades to assess the accuracy and quality of its manual-winding movements:
1. Prima – Good timekeeping performance.
2. Extra Prima – Even higher precision.
3. Ultra Prima – The highest grade, requiring rigorous testing in six positions and at different temperatures to achieve observatory-grade precision.
In 1926, founder Hans Wilsdorf had just obtained the patent for the "Oyster" sealed case, which quickly led to the creation of this timepiece. Its appearance is almost identical to the famous watch worn by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her 1927 crossing of the English Channel—a historic feat designed to demonstrate the exceptional water resistance of the Oyster case.
It's worth noting that this watch was featured prominently at the 2026 Rolex Oyster Centennial Exhibition. Those rare and grand exhibitions comprehensively presented Wilsdorf's century-long journey from his early days to becoming an industry giant, showcasing numerous rare vintage watches and historical documents. For Rolex collectors, it was a pilgrimage site, embodying the brand's spirit of "perpetual motion" and continuous challenge.
I vividly remember venturing into the world of watch collecting in 1988. Early Oyster models were incredibly sought after, coveted by countless collectors. At that time, I had just entered the workforce, and the price of a single antique watch could easily equal several months' salary. To acquire my beloved timepiece, I worked multiple jobs day and night, painstakingly saving every penny until I finally succeeded.
That passion for timepieces also fueled my drive in my career, propelling me to strive for advancement and promotion—because that meant greater rewards. In those youthful years, the tangible value of money certainly outweighed the prestige of power and status.
Subsequently, as the trend of sports watches swept the globe, these early geometric timepieces gradually faded from collectors' memories, almost forgotten. It wasn't until Rolex's centenary celebration, with its stunning re-emergence, that the craze was reignited, making it an unparalleled sensation. Even after more than a century, the movement within this watch still runs smoothly and keeps precise time, as if time has left no trace on its gears.
Looking back at Rolex's development over the past three decades, its design language seems to have stagnated, and its innovative edge has become increasingly restrained—most new models are merely repeated refinements of the classic styles from the early 20th century to the 1970s and 80s, with gradually enlarged cases. Perhaps, having reached its peak, the brand has chosen to proceed calmly and steadily on its established path, seeking stability. However, the brand's current success also heavily relies on marketing and public relations efforts to maintain its halo.
Furthermore, with the proliferation of high-quality counterfeits on the market, almost indistinguishable from the real thing, and with so many wearers making it difficult to tell the difference, the brand's unique charm is inevitably tarnished, causing some rational consumers to hesitate. This is why I have a particular fondness for antique timepieces—their exceptional value and profound historical significance far surpass that of modern watches, making them a true haven for collectors.
However, collecting antique watches is not merely a matter of fleeting interest. Collectors must delve deeply into the historical context and aesthetic trends of each era, reading widely and diligently. Fortunately, the internet provides access to a vast sea of information; yet ultimately, it still depends on the collector's own diligence and discerning eye to distinguish the genuine from the crowd. Some might argue that with today's diverse entertainment options, collecting antique watches is a rare privilege.
Last week, I met Mr. Leung, a Hong Kong collector of antique watches. During our conversation, he succinctly observed: "Most people start collecting with new watches; however, as time passes and experience grows, one gradually comes to appreciate the profound charm and extraordinary value of antique watches."
How true this is—the joy of collecting lies not in newness or age, but in the enduring quality that comes with the passage of time. This article is dedicated to fellow enthusiasts and hopes to inspire more young people to transcend time and experience the boundless charm of antique watch collecting.
