Thursday 26 October 2023

Rolex Athlete ref 4127 from 1942

Rolex Oyster Athlete ref 4127 serial # 2132xx circa 1942. It has a size 32mm case with wide concave bezel, straight extended lugs, and screw down case back and period screw down crown. Lugs size is 17mm. The Rolex Athlete watch was produced in early 1940s and there are two versions : one with small seconds (using cal 700?) and one with centre/sweep seconds (cal 710). 

There are  three different models that used the similar design case design in the 1940s: 
1. the 4127 (manual wind), mainly in stainless steel;
2. the 3548 (perpetual) often called the Empire, which is bigger in size and  are in both steel and yellow gold
3. Ladies watch variant (manual wind). 

Most of the 4127 comes with Mercedes and pencil hands looks in full numeral or alternative numerals and some rare ones come with California dials. There are many redial watches. Most of the dials that looks to be original does not have the Rolex coronet. Just Rolex Oyster Athlete in the same font. Some dials with ‘precision’. It is Powered by 17 jewel manual wind calibre 10 1/2 hunter movement. I am very glad to be able to find this Athlete as it was quite rare in the 1990-2000s. This watch has brought back fond memories of my early years of watch collection

Rolex Athlete in steel ref 4127

Rolex Empire ref 3548

The above is a Rolex Empire in gold ref 3548 (perpetual) with a cylinder style case , which looks similar to the Rolex Athlete, but its case is much thicker as it has an automatic movement . The ref 3548 is quite rare owing to its design and I have not come across another after I have bought one in the late 1980s. The watch was priced the same as the `Rolex Prince jump hour at that time and I have chosen this Rolex Empire.







It is interesting to note that these watches were expensive during the earlier days






Wednesday 25 October 2023

Rolex Hooded Bubbleback ref 3599 from 1941

Launched in 1931 as the world’s first reliable self-winding wristwatch, the initial version of the Rolex Oyster perpetual is affectionately known as ‘bubbleback’ 泡泡背today by collectors because of its bulbous case back. The case back on a “bubbleback” is significantly larger than case backs from other watches during the same era to allow the space for the winding rotor and self-winding module on the movement. Therefore, Rolex’s iconic “Bubbleback” gets its name from the protruding rounded case back designed to accommodate their patented self-winding movement and rotor. 

The hooded version of the bubbleback was designed as a variation in the 1940s to ‘re-invent’ the case design but was unable to revive sales and soon ceased production. Some said the hooded bubbleback were produced for the US market. Amongst one of the most sought after variants of the legendary “Bubbleback” series, the hooded is the rarest examples of the model available today. I was very fortunate to add another Rolex hooded bubbleback watch over the weekend. I have to trade away a Vacheron Constantin Le Coultre mystery dial.


As mentioned earlier, the first Bubbleback models were introduced in the early 1930s and production continued for approximately 20 years. Similar to the standard “Bubbleback” watch, which came in many variations, the Rolex “hooded” examples had various finishes on the hoods from smooth ref 3065 to ribbed, engine-turned to vertical stripping and from steel to yellow gold and rose gold ref 3159 and to scallop hoods ref 3801. This design concept made a visual impact, and as the present model demonstrates, the watch grows in size and presence, rendering a striking appearance. I have happy to be able to collect 6 of these hooded bubbleback.


This Rolex reference 3599 hooded bubbleback is defined by its unusual case design featuring a flat cylindrical bezel of considerable width and “hoods” covering the open space normally found in between the lugs instead of a usual beveled edge bezel. It is a standard 32mm diameter. White dial with closed minute track, hours minutes and seconds at center. Plexiglas crystal, steel case back. Movement, case back and dial signed. 1942 This is unusual ROLEX Oyster Perpetual "OVETTE". Hooded Bubbleback Reference 3599 made for the European markets. Normally, the Rolex hooded Bubbleback were made for the US market. Early Rolex was very adventurous in their design and use of materials.




Normally, the ref 3599 is an all steel hooded bubbleback watch but this one has a steel case with hoods with gold striations at 6 and 12 o'clock. The two tone hoods remind us of the Rolex Prince Zebra two tone colours aka tiger straps, making it a rather unique watch. 



Comparison between the Rolex Prince two tone zebra and the Rolex hooded




The watch has appeared in an overseas auction 


Latest update:

Just sent the watch for a thorough service and cleaning.








Saturday 14 October 2023

Rolex 18k gold 1625 Turn O Graph

The Rolex ref 1625 Turn O Graph is often called Thunderbird by some collectors. In Hong Kong, it is called 爬山虎. Most of the ref 1625 is in steel with yellow gold or white gold bezel. There is also 18k version. In the past, my preference has been with steel watches but these few years, I have started to collect more solid gold watches as they are rarer and the overall conditions tend to be better.

Below is a solid gold Ref 1625 from the year 1962. The early 1625 has the pointed hour and minute hands. The overall condition is good as people tended to take care of their gold watches better then steel watches.





Comparison between a steel & gold versus solid gold 1625




Rolex 6309 & 1625 gold and bicolor 




Wednesday 11 October 2023

Sherpa Divette diver ref 110/116 from 1958

The Sherpa line from Enicar was introduced in 1956; it was inspired by a series of explorations happening around the world, especially after an Enicar was used in a summit of Mount Everest. There are several models within the Dive family starting with the Dive 600 model, which appeared around 1958. 

This Sherpa Divette is the first generation the Dive models from 1958, as seen in the bold luminous indexes, rotating black bezel with  several round markers at the top 12, 3,6,9 positions, and the unusual center seconds hand. 







The glossy black gilt dial with elongated indexes gives another level of vintage flare. 




The reference 100/116 is fitted with a rotor caliber with 17 jewels that was introduced in Q2, 1958. The Divette measures at 36mm, but the relatively wide-set flat bezel gives it a larger appearance than its actual size













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Longines Art Deco Tonneau watch

I have always long for a Longines Art Deco Tonneau watch as I used to have one in silver more than 20 years ago. Not sure why I sold it away...

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