Rolex Explorer 2 reference 1655 from 1981

During the weekend, I was bidding and closely monitoring the sales of a Blancpain No radiation watch at Antiqurum and I was hoping to get it around HK$150K. However, it went to HKG$220k and after adding the 25% commision, the price is HK$275k, which went beyond my budget.

As I am looking to buy one of my last watch for self collection for the year, I was contemplating between a Rolex Daytona Chocolate versus a full set Rolex 1655.

It was a difficult choice as I could only choose one between the two and I have decided to seek help from Ai. Choosing between a modern Everose Daytona and a vintage "Freccione" Explorer II is an excellent dilemma to have.

Since your primary goal is **long-term investment and price appreciation**, the horological market strongly favors one of these options over the other.

Here is a straightforward breakdown of how these two distinct pieces perform as investments.

Comparison:

| Feature.             | Explorer II 1655 (Full Set)                            | Daytona 116515LN (Chocolate) |

| Era.                    | Vintage (1971–1985)                                    | Modern (Neo-vintage to current) |

| Supply                | Strictly finite (exceedingly rare as a full set) | Higher volume / Modern production |

| Market Volatility | Low (insulated from modern hype cycles)     | Moderate to High (subject to current trends) |

| Asset Class        | True collector's antique                                 | Modern luxury commodity |

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 (Full Set)

For pure long-term investment, the 1655 is the superior choice.

 * **The Power of the "Full Set":** Finding a vintage sports Rolex from the 1970s or early 1980s with its original box, punched papers, and booklets is incredibly difficult. Collectors pay a massive premium for complete provenance, and this premium compounds over time.

 * **Finite Scarcity:** Rolex is never making another 1655. As time goes on, fewer of these exist in good, original condition due to damage, loss, or replacement parts during servicing.

 * **Market Stability:** Vintage Rolexes with strong provenance are considered blue-chip collectibles. They do not experience the wild price spikes and subsequent crashes seen in the modern watch market over the last five years. They appreciate slowly, steadily, and reliably.

 * **Condition is Everything:** To realize this appreciation, the watch must have an unpolished (or very lightly polished) case, an original dial (no service replacement dials), and matching tritium patina on the hands and markers.

Rolex Daytona 116515LN (Chocolate Dial)

While a stunning piece of modern horology, it functions differently as an asset.

 * **Trend Dependency:** Modern precious metal Daytonas are highly desirable, but their secondary market prices are tied heavily to contemporary hype, stock market performance, and macroeconomic factors. They saw massive inflation in 2021/2022, followed by a significant market correction.

 * **Lack of Rarity:** While you cannot easily walk into a boutique and buy one at retail, Rolex produces a significant number of modern Daytonas. It does not have the intrinsic scarcity of a discontinued, 40-year-old reference.

 * **Depreciation Risk:** If you are buying it new at retail, it will likely hold its value well immediately. However, if you are paying secondary market premiums, you are exposing yourself to the risk of short-term market softening before you ever see long-term gains.

The Verdict

If your absolute priority is wealth preservation and long-term appreciation, secure the Explorer II 1655 Full Set. It is a piece of horological history with a proven, decades-long track record of financial growth.

Following the advice from AI, I then asked myself, why the Rolex 1655? I used to have two Rolex 1655 Explorers and one restored in Taipei when I was working in Taipei and another fully restored in Rolex HKG. 

Along the way, I have let one go to my brother in law and decided to keep the fully restored one for myself and this has always been one of my regrets. As such, for my last high costs watch to get for the year, I have decided on the rolex 1655 in full set to celebrate my bonus and at the same time fulfillment of my dream and removal of my regrets. This Rolex 1655 will also fit nicely with my family of Rolex Explorers consisting of rolex ref 6610, 1016 gilt and matt dial, 1655, 16550 creamdial, Canadian Explorer 5501, 5701 (with Date)  plus the Tudor Ranger watch.

Based on compiled Rolex serial number databases, a serial number of 7119xxx dates the watch's production to late 1981 or early 1982. However, owing to the poor sales, the watch was only sold in 1984.

Vintage WW1 Zenith Pilot watch

The search for vintage military watches is often accompanied by regret and long waits. Over the past two decades, I've repeatedly tried to build a respectable themed collection, only to always miss out on the timepieces I truly desired. However, the allure of collecting lies in the concept of "fate"—after years of repeated searching, I finally found this historical treasure.

The story begins a few years ago. A collector friend showed me two pilot's watches: a slightly more expensive Zenith and a Helvetia. I hesitated then, missing the opportunity to acquire them. Until recently, I contacted the seller again and learned that one had already been acquired, but fortunately, the Zenith was still patiently waiting. This time, I didn't hesitate any longer and finally brought it home.

This is a classic Zenith "Trench Watch," born during World War I, and can also be considered an early pilot's watch. It showcases the horological aesthetics of the turn of the century. It was born during one of the most fascinating transitional periods in watchmaking history—the era when wristwatches were gradually replacing pocket watches and taking center 

This timepiece features a deep matte black military-style dial, perfectly complemented by high-contrast Arabic numeral hour markers. These iconic "Cathedral Hands" and hour markers were originally coated with radium for easy reading by soldiers and early pilots in the dark or in trenches.

Most striking is the extra-long, oversized, onion-shaped crown at 3 o'clock. This large, textured crown wasn't for aesthetics, but purely for practicality—allowing pilots or soldiers wearing heavy leather gloves to easily wind and adjust the watch even in extreme conditions.

The case is fitted with traditional linear lugs (fixed rings welded directly to the case) and comes with a dark brown Bund-style leather strap. Historically, this type of strap was highly functional, effectively protecting soldiers' skin from the damage caused by the exposed metal case in the extreme cold, heat, or friction of the outdoors.

Opening the case back of this watch reveals the turning of time. A remarkably well-preserved manual-winding mechanical movement comes into view: the words "GEORGE'S FAVRE JACOT" are clearly engraved on the movement's bridges. This legendary watchmaker founded Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Although the brand officially standardized the dial name to "Zenith" around 1911, the tradition of engraving the founder's name on the movement continued into the early 20th century.

Movement Serial Number: 21257xx. According to official Zenith production records, movements with serial numbers around 2.1 million were produced between 1917 and 1919. This strongly confirms that this timepiece is a historical artifact manufactured during or shortly after World War I.

The movement bridges feature a traditional brushed gold-plated finish and are equipped with a classic Swiss Lever Escapement and an exquisitely decorated balance bridge, showcasing the top-tier watchmaking standards of the time.

Zenith's connection to aviation history dates back to 1909. That year, the legendary French aviator Louis Blériot became the first person in history to successfully cross the English Channel. "I am very pleased with this Zenith watch; I wear it often," said Louis Blériot.

At the time, Blériot wore this Zenith watch with the "Special" inscription on its dial. That timepiece featured a chrome-plated case, fixed linear lugs, a high-contrast black enamel dial, cathedral hands, and a large onion-shaped crown—the gold standard for pilot's watches from 1909 to the 1930s.

As I examined this Zenith Trench watch in my hand, the image of the modern Zenith Pilot Type 20 immediately came to mind. Indeed, it was these pioneering prototypes from the battlefield that inspired the design of the modern pilot's watch.

This is more than just a watch; it's a timeless treasure that blends military history and watchmaking craftsmanship. Having withstood a century of trials, it remains in such stunning condition. Encountering and acquiring it is undoubtedly one of the proudest moments of my collecting career.

Besides Zenith, there are several other brands producing similar looking watches such as Omega Ck700 Military Extremely rare German Pilot Vintage Luftwaffe

West End 24 hours military watch with jumping seconds

This is a West End 24 hours military watch with jumping seconds. It is a vintage West End Watch Co. model from the **Sowar** line, featuring a specialized 24-hour dial. 

This specific timepiece is notable for its military heritage and a rare mechanical complication known as "jumping seconds" (or *seconde morte*), where the second hand ticks once per second rather than sweeping smoothly. It is part of the "Sowar" (meaning "the cavalryman" or "one who rides") collection, originally named in honor of elite Indian cavalry troops and famously associated with **T.E. Lawrence** (Lawrence of Arabia).

The Dial Configuration features a 24-hour military layout, where the hour hand completes one full rotation every 24 hours rather than the standard 12 and the Movement**: Swiss-made manual winding movement. The "jumping seconds" complication is a distinct mechanical feature often sought by collectors of vintage technical watches.

It has a stainless steel case with a unique **stepped bezel** and angular lugs, characteristic of early mid-century West End designs.The dial shows the "West End Watch Co." logo with "Sowar" in red script, a classic hallmark of the brand.

It was made with Military Heritage: West End Watch Co. became a primary supplier of durable watches to British and Indian soldiers during the World Wars, particularly for those stationed in the Middle East and South Asia.The brand was an early adopter of technical advancements, including the Incabloc anti-shock system (1834) and waterproof case designs.

While Swiss-made, the brand was specifically created to export high-quality timepieces to the Indian and Far Eastern markets, where it remains a respected name today.

Since 2013, I have been actively search for the jumping second (Deadbeat) watches. After 13 years of searching, finally managed to gather the following :

  

Rolex ref 868 (1920-30s)

This is a rare vintage Art Deco style watch from the 1920s and 30s, typically featuring a rectangular case in 9K or 18K yellow gold with distinctive movable (hinged) lugs. These finely crafted manual-winding dress watches are usually adorned with Roman numerals and a small seconds dial and it is very comfortable to wear as it rest well on the wrist.

Key features of Ref 868:

* Period: 1920s and 30s.

* Case: Rectangular, typically in 9K or 18K yellow gold, featuring movable or hinged lugs.

* Design: Art Deco style, typically with Roman numerals and a stylized dial.

Rolex 6082 from the year 1959

I have just returned from Osaka. During my holiday, I visited several vintage watch shops. Despite the favorable yen exchange rate, I found the prices were still significantly higher than in Hong Kong, and I ultimately left empty-handed.

Many collectors new to vintage Rolex start with the simple 30-32mm three-hand manual-winding models—the Speed ​​King or Royal. However, on this collecting path, there is a rarer, more expansive and distinctive model waiting to be discovered.

The Rolex Oyster 6082, born in the 1950s to early 1960s, is a captivating vintage timepiece and an extremely rare Oyster manual-winding model. Its 34.5mm case diameter (remarkably slender compared to the more common 30-32mm of the time) features slim and elegant lines, retaining the meticulous original finishing marks. This timepiece, produced around 1959, is powered by the Rolex Calibre 710 manual-winding movement, featuring 15 jewels and a smooth, stable operation.

The 34mm stainless steel Oyster case has a screw-down crown and case back, boasting a clean, streamlined silhouette, with a beveled bezel adding a touch of refinement. At the time, 34mm was considered a larger size than most, exuding a subtle yet sophisticated air. The dial is a warm beige, offering clear readability and a vintage charm. The "Shock-Resisting" inscription at 6 o'clock testifies to Rolex's pioneering role in shock-resistant technology.

Regarding the movement, it measures 9 3/4''', employs a lever escapement, and features a Super Balance wheel, offering approximately 41 hours of power reserve. It offers a choice of small seconds or a central seconds hand, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship of the era.

Particularly noteworthy is that this watch retains the extremely rare original Super Oyster crown. It is believed that Rolex discontinued production of this crown after only about three years. Its design concept was to create a manual-winding crown that was waterproof without needing to be screwed on. Despite its excellent water resistance, the internal rubber seals aged over time, eventually leading to the design's obsolescence.

Today, the 6082 is considered an entry-level vintage Rolex. However, in the 1950s and 60s, owning such a watch indicated a status from the upper-middle class or above. At that time, the 6082, as an Oyster precision manual-winding watch, retailed for approximately $125 to $150, similarly priced to the brand's entry-level Oyster Perpetual (around $125), positioning it as an affordable, highly waterproof everyday steel watch. The more complex early Submariner models, on the other hand, were priced between $150 and $175. Interestingly, the price difference between the Submariner and the standard models back then was not as significant as it is today.

Converted to US Consumer Price Index, $125 to $150 in the 1950s and 60s is roughly equivalent to $1,600 to $2,400 in April 2026. However, even with the same amount of money today, you can't buy a brand new Rolex watch. This shows that Rolex watches, especially sports models, are now far more expensive, which explains the abundance of counterfeits.

Currently, compared to models like the SpeedKing of the same period, the 6082, with its 34mm case size and market rarity, is highly sought after by collectors and has significant collectible value. Even more fascinating is that with age, many 6082 dials develop a unique patina, giving each watch an irreplaceable mark of time. This mid-size watch is now more expensive than the SpeedKing and Royal, and it's becoming increasingly difficult to find in Hong Kong.

Q1 Jan - Mar 2026 Review

I have started the year 2026 with a nice Lemania nuclear submarine single button chronograph, which is one of my grail watch since 1988. It has taken me a long time to find one in such great conditions. 

For 2026, my Q1 key collecting focus shall be on Quality then quantities of watches with a clear focus on filling the "missing gaps" in my military watch collections and diver watches plus the two Alain Silberstein watch. 

I have bought 9 watches and sold 7. I am quite fortunate to be able to find a 18k solid gold Jaeger Lecoultre Futurematic as well. For 2026, I have not listed any dream watch as its time for some consolidation first.

Lemania nuclear submarine single button chronograph (2 Jan 2026). This shall be my best buy for the year.

Citizen Super Jet Auto Dater Parawater 150m SADS 51202 Y from May 1968 (2 Jan 2026)

Citizen Crystal Date, AUDS 52802-Y ( July 1966) 2 Jan 2026

I have decided to focus on Alain Silberstein krono Bauhaus 2 black laquer to replace the blue Alan Silberstein (13th Jan 2026)

Citizen 4-540115 ORO from June 1979

Citizen Watch co Day Date 51-2273 from Jan 1980

Citizen Watch co Day Date 51-2273 from Feb 1980

Titus Calypsomatic ref 7085 (6/2/2026)

Jaeger Lecoultre Futurematic (25/3/2026)

Watches found in 2026 (9 watches)

1  Jan 1 : Lemania nuclear submariner chronograph

2. Jan 2 : Citizen Crystal Date, AUDS 52802-Y H

3. Jan 2 : Citizen Super Jet Auto Dater 39J 腕時計 自動巻き 6070209 SADS5120-Y 

4. Jan 13 : Alain Silberstein krono Bauhaus 2 black laquer

5. Jan 27 : Citizen Watch co Day Date 4-822145, G-N-04-5 512273

6. Jan 27: Citizen 4-540115 ORO,

7. Jan 27 : Citizen 512273 

8. Feb 6 : Titus Calypsomatic ref 7085

9. Mar 25 : Jaeger-Lecoutre Futurematic 18k gold

Wish Lists 2025-2026:

1. Rolex 18078 (2025)

2. Rolex 5030  (2025)

3. Rolex 1807  (2025)

4. Rolex Prince Zebra (2025)

5. Rolex DRSD (2025)

6. Rolex 16758, Rolex 16753 (2025),  

7. Alain Silberstein Kronos Bahaus &  2 (2025)

8. Lemania Nuclear sub chronograph (2026)

Watches sold in 2026 (7 watches)

1. Jan 3  : Rolex 樹紋

2. Jan 20 : Alain Silberstein krono 

3. Jan 21 : Omega Dynamic

4. Feb 11 : Dragon watch 

5. Mar 17 : Vostok Russian watch

6. Mar 24 : Vostok Russian watch

7. Mar 26 : Vostok Russian watch