The search for vintage military watches is often accompanied by regret and long waits. Over the past two decades, I've repeatedly tried to build a respectable themed collection, only to always miss out on the timepieces I truly desired. However, the allure of collecting lies in the concept of "fate"—after years of repeated searching, I finally found this historical treasure.
The story begins a few years ago. A collector friend showed me two pilot's watches: a slightly more expensive Zenith and a Helvetia. I hesitated then, missing the opportunity to acquire them. Until recently, I contacted the seller again and learned that one had already been acquired, but fortunately, the Zenith was still patiently waiting. This time, I didn't hesitate any longer and finally brought it home.
This is a classic Zenith "Trench Watch," born during World War I, and can also be considered an early pilot's watch. It showcases the horological aesthetics of the turn of the century. It was born during one of the most fascinating transitional periods in watchmaking history—the era when wristwatches were gradually replacing pocket watches and taking center
This timepiece features a deep matte black military-style dial, perfectly complemented by high-contrast Arabic numeral hour markers. These iconic "Cathedral Hands" and hour markers were originally coated with radium for easy reading by soldiers and early pilots in the dark or in trenches.
Most striking is the extra-long, oversized, onion-shaped crown at 3 o'clock. This large, textured crown wasn't for aesthetics, but purely for practicality—allowing pilots or soldiers wearing heavy leather gloves to easily wind and adjust the watch even in extreme conditions.
The case is fitted with traditional linear lugs (fixed rings welded directly to the case) and comes with a dark brown Bund-style leather strap. Historically, this type of strap was highly functional, effectively protecting soldiers' skin from the damage caused by the exposed metal case in the extreme cold, heat, or friction of the outdoors.
Opening the case back of this watch reveals the turning of time. A remarkably well-preserved manual-winding mechanical movement comes into view: the words "GEORGE'S FAVRE JACOT" are clearly engraved on the movement's bridges. This legendary watchmaker founded Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Although the brand officially standardized the dial name to "Zenith" around 1911, the tradition of engraving the founder's name on the movement continued into the early 20th century.
Movement Serial Number: 21257xx. According to official Zenith production records, movements with serial numbers around 2.1 million were produced between 1917 and 1919. This strongly confirms that this timepiece is a historical artifact manufactured during or shortly after World War I.
The movement bridges feature a traditional brushed gold-plated finish and are equipped with a classic Swiss Lever Escapement and an exquisitely decorated balance bridge, showcasing the top-tier watchmaking standards of the time.
Zenith's connection to aviation history dates back to 1909. That year, the legendary French aviator Louis Blériot became the first person in history to successfully cross the English Channel. "I am very pleased with this Zenith watch; I wear it often," said Louis Blériot.
At the time, Blériot wore this Zenith watch with the "Special" inscription on its dial. That timepiece featured a chrome-plated case, fixed linear lugs, a high-contrast black enamel dial, cathedral hands, and a large onion-shaped crown—the gold standard for pilot's watches from 1909 to the 1930s.
As I examined this Zenith Trench watch in my hand, the image of the modern Zenith Pilot Type 20 immediately came to mind. Indeed, it was these pioneering prototypes from the battlefield that inspired the design of the modern pilot's watch.
This is more than just a watch; it's a timeless treasure that blends military history and watchmaking craftsmanship. Having withstood a century of trials, it remains in such stunning condition. Encountering and acquiring it is undoubtedly one of the proudest moments of my collecting career.
Besides Zenith, there are several other brands producing similar looking watches such as Omega Ck700 Military Extremely rare German Pilot Vintage Luftwaffe
