Wednesday, 30 September 2026

紅旗錶:三面紅旗

 2024 年,我將收藏的靈魂與目光,堅定錨定在中國中古腕錶最幽深、也最富傳奇色彩的秘境——「紅旗」。那是一個「仿品如潮,真跡如星」的稀缺世界;每一枚真品,都是被時代風暴掩埋的歷史殘卷,靜默承載著一段段沉浮往事。


在特定歷史時期,手錶並非日常用品,而是極少數權貴與精英方能擁有的奢華象徵。正因如此,早期試製樣本尤為罕見,遂成今日藏家競逐的焦點。紅旗錶由遼寧手錶廠承製(後轉型為孔雀),其產線、機芯與品牌變遷,皆有明確文獻與實物佐證,是研究中國中古製錶工藝不可繞過的關鍵樣本。


目前入藏的紅旗腕錶,涵蓋多個關鍵批次與變體;每一枚,都是時代留下的切片:


- 紅旗日曆 0372

- 三角沒字版

- 紅旗草 SL2A 背殼

- 一面小紅旗銀刻度、紅旗花

- 玫瑰金機芯內帶「付」字樣品標誌

- 早期試製第一批拉絲面小漢字版白字紅旗

- 拉絲紅旗紅漢字;白漆紅旗紅漢字

- 一面小紅旗玫瑰金字

- 最早期白漆小漢字紅旗 0970 機芯帶字

- 拉絲面紅字雙十字線紅旗表

- 雙十字線(雙子母線)面盤

- 早期白漆面小字體紅旗表 0772,機心無印,背殼帶三面紅旗標誌(機心無印對應試製或早期批次特徵——SL2A 無字版機芯的夾板上沒有任何鐫刻)

- 白漆「為人民服務」表等


在眾多古董紅旗表中,唯一缺的、堪稱至高無上的王者,正是很少人知道的「三面紅旗」。之前和中國內地收藏家交談過,這「三面紅旗」生產和在藏家手中合計應不足五枚。只因它的背後,埋藏著一段被政治風暴深深掩蓋的傳奇。


1966 年初,遼寧手錶廠在開發 A61 型(仿蘇聯基洛夫機芯)「遼寧」牌手錶的升級產品時,率先試製出一款以「三面紅旗」為標誌的「紅旗」牌腕錶。以當時的工藝水準而言,此錶做工極盡考究,堪稱精雕細琢。然而,試製樣錶尚未定型,「文化大革命」的風暴已席捲全國;遼寧更淪為派性鬥爭與武鬥熾烈的重災區。當「三面紅旗」錶呈報輕工部門審批時,當地奪權的「造反派」以「紅旗是毛主席題字的最革命名稱,不能用於仿蘇修機心的手錶」為由,強行封殺。彼時,蘇聯已被視為「修正主義」的象徵,凡與之稍有牽涉,便可能陷入政治險境。


最終,廠內當權的造反派一聲令下,樣品、圖紙與模具皆須悉數銷毀;有幸,少數參與研製的員工卻不忍親手葬送心血結晶,冒著極大風險,偷偷藏下少數成品樣錶。紅旗錶的三面紅旗,也因此得以在時代的裂縫中留存於世。


我這一隻,同樣等候多時,方從丹東老工人手中收得。盤面細節尤為講究:溫潤優雅銀面之上,金色刻度與指針交相輝映,盤面上方印有精緻的三面紅旗和另添地球輪廓圖案。細而分之,錶盤共有兩型:一型僅飾三面紅旗;另一型則於三面紅旗之外,另添地球輪廓圖案。


此一標誌,正是「讓紅旗插滿地球」的宏大意象。當年中國外交部成立時,毛澤東主席贈予外交部的一份大禮,便是一張世界地圖;周恩來總理時任外交部長,中國每與一國建交,便在地圖上插上一面紅旗。遼寧手錶廠參考此一概念,試製設計出這款「三面紅旗、插滿地球」盤面。三面紅旗機芯帶有立體標誌。


另一處耐人尋味之處,在於底蓋工藝。錶背壓印同款標識,並鐫刻「總路線萬歲、大躍進萬歲、人民公社萬歲」的時代口號,將那段歲月深深烙印於方寸之間。錶背亦有中文版與中英並置的國際「Hong Qi」版之分。


由是觀之,「三面紅旗」的歷史稀缺性愈顯鮮明:1966 年試製樣錶因政治風暴而被勒令銷毀,存世寥寥,堪稱「蒙塵的巔峰」之作。從面盤上的三旗圖案,到底蓋上的時代口號,皆為不可再生的歷史文本與視覺符號。


每一枚紅旗錶,皆是時代的見證;而「三面紅旗」,更是這段歷史中最璀璨、亦最悲壯的一章。身為一名研讀歷史與政治學的學生,能得一枚滿載歷史的腕錶,並將它珍藏,於我而言,未嘗不是一種緣分。

Wednesday, 23 September 2026

Q3 Jul -Sept 2026 Review

Time flies and we are now entering Q3. For the past months, my hunt  for vintage watches has been very exciting and fruitful. For the 3rd quarter, I have stayed very focus and only grow and consolidate my Big Bubbleback series by additions a left hand winding Rolex Big Bubbleback and a Rolex 6309 Tuen O graph and added another Rolex GMT with Serpico y Laino double signatures watch and a classic Oyster cushion watch and a new old stock Rolex Bubbleback plus two vintage Casio.

I was offered a solid gold 1601 with diamonds markers and bracelet but the price is above HK$220,000. I didn’t get it as with the price, I can get two Rolex 1675 sports GMT watches. With the escalating gold prices, gold watches prices have also increased a great deal.

Rolex 6305 left handed Big Bubbleback with Serpico y Laino double sign

Rolex 18k gold 6309 Turn O Graph from 1955

Rolex 1675 GMT with Serpic y Laino double signatures gilt dial

Rolex Oyster Cushion

Rolex ref 3372

Casio MRG 100T and 110T

Watches found in 2026 (21 watches)
  1. Jan 1 : Lemania nuclear submariner chronograph
  2. Jan 2 : Citizen Crystal Date, Parawatet AUDS 52802-Y 8050202Y Hk$8576
  3. Jan 2 : Citizen SUPER JET AUTO DATER 39J 腕時計 自動巻き 6070209 SADS5120-Y  Hk$4,581.96 HKD to tenso 株式会社
  4. Jan 12 : Alain Silberstein Bauhaus Krono 2 HK$35,000 Jan 26 
  5. Jan 27 : Citizen Watch co Day Date 4-822145 0010371, G-N-04-5 512273 
  6. Jan 27: Citizen 4-540115 ORO, serial 9062760 
  7. Jan 27 : Citizen 512273 4-822105 Y 00210916
  8. Feb 6 : Titus Calypsomatic ref 7085  
  9. Apr 25 : North Korea Moranbong 
  10. May 13: West End 24 hours plus jumping seconds
  11. Jun 1 : Zenith WW1 Pilot Watch 
  12. Jun 5 : Rolex Explorer 2 ref 1655
  13. Jun 19 : Calendar Auto Orient Swimmer World Trip 
  14. Jun 22 : Calendar Auto Orient Swimmer World Trip 
  15. Jul 11 ; Rolex 6305 Big Bubbleback left hand winding Serpico y Laino
  16. Jul 17 : Rolex 6309 18k gold Turn O Graph
  17. Sept 9 : Rolex 9k gold oyster cushion
  18. Sept 9 : Rolex Bubbleback ref 3372
  19. Sept 13 : Casio G Shock MRG 100T 
  20. Sept 14   : Rolex GMT Master- Serpico y Laino Dial  from 1965 
  21. Sept 14 : Casio G Shock MRG 110T 

Wish Lists 2025-2026:

1. Jan 1 : Lemania Nuclear sub chronograph (2026)
2. Jun 5 : Rolex Explorer 2, mk5 full set (2026)
3. Sept 14 : Rolex 1675 GMT Master Serpico y Laino

Watches sold in 2026 (24 watches)
  1. 3 Jan : Rolex 9659 樹 
  2. 20 Jan : Alain Silberstein Krono 
  3. Jan 21 : Omega Dynamic  
  4. Feb : Dragon watch 
  5. Mar 17 : Sold Russian watch 
  6. Mar 24 : Sold Russian watch 
  7. Mar 25 : Rolex Bubbleback 
  8. Mar 26 : Sold Russian watch 
  9. April 9 : Universal Geneve 
  10. April 25 : Universal Geneve 
  11. Apr  26:  Lowenthal Mono Rattrapante Chronograh
  12. May  8 : Titus Calypsomatic Hk 
  13. May 15 : Rolex 6082
  14. Jun 1 : Rolex Helmet
  15. Jun 3 : Morangbong Watch
  16. July 1 : Rolex Octagonal 
  17. July 4 : Rolex 5701 Explorer
  18. July 17 : Jaeger Lecoultre gold futurmatic
  19. Aug 3  : Rolex Explorer 5501
  20. Aug 5 : Longines Saddam Hussein
  21. Aug 27 : Rolex 6282
  22. Sept 3 : Rolex Octagonal steel
  23. Sept 7 : GP watch 
  24. Sept 17 ; Rolex Viceroy 

Friday, 18 September 2026

Breguet Tyoe XX

This is a classic and historically significant Breguet Type 20 (Ref. 5101/54) flyback chronograph issued to the French Air Force (*Armée de l'Air*).

Key Features and Details
 * Dial Details (Sterile Dial): The first-generation military-spec Type 20 features a "sterile" dial (devoid of the brand logo), equipped with two sub-dials (small seconds at 9 o'clock and a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o'clock), luminous Arabic numerals, and "pear-shaped" or "syringe" style hands.
 * Case and Crown: A 38mm steel case featuring a bidirectional rotating coin-edged bezel and the large "onion" or "pear-shaped" crown characteristic of early Type 20 models.
 * Caseback Inscriptions (FG Acceptance Marks):
   

BREGUET TYPE 20 5101/54: The French Ministry of Defence procurement contract number "5101/54" is clearly engraved in the center of the caseback.

   * FG (*Fin de Garantie*): The perimeter of the caseback is densely covered with "FG" markings followed by dates (e.g., FG 10.56, FG 12.78). These are service stamps manually applied by military maintenance depots following periodic inspections and warranty renewals; the presence of numerous stamps serves as authentic evidence of the watch's active service history.
 * Movement Specifications: It is powered by the classic manual-winding Valjoux Cal. 222 flyback (*Retour en vol*) chronograph movement.
Retaining its original character and bearing distinct military markings, this 1950s Breguet Type 20 is a rare and highly representative piece within the realm of vintage military aviation watch collecting.





Monday, 14 September 2026

Rolex GMT Master- Serpico y Laino Dial - Fat Font Pepsi Bezel- Jubilee from 1965

The GMT-Master was originally a navigation tool tailored by Rolex for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s, and remains a legendary piece in the brand's flagship collection. The 1675 model, launched in 1959, was produced until 1980, spanning two decades.


However, this particular watch is far from ordinary—it boasts a rare gilt dial, its luminescent coating still gleaming with a warm amber glow in the dark; the blue and red colour scheme on the aluminium rotating bezel makes it instantly recognisable as a GMT Master, the contrast of blue and red always being my favorite colour combination. Even more precious is the double seal of Serpico Y Laino, Venezuela's top retailer, engraved on both the dial and the case back—this boutique once rivaled Rolex and Patek Philippe, holding an exclusive monopoly on the distribution rights of top Swiss brands in Venezuela.

It's important to understand that in the 1960s, these GMT watches were not luxury items, but rather practical "tool watches" for pilots and professionals. Annual sales were far lower than those of the gold and steel watches of yesteryear, and certainly not as astonishing as they are today. Therefore, it was common for a watch to complete its movement production in 1964, sometimes not being assembled and sold until 1965. Rolex relied on numerous component suppliers in its early days, making its scale incomparable to today's watchmaking giant.

The creation of Serpico y Laino jewelry is intricately intertwined with a history of Italian immigration across the ocean. In the early 20th century, goldsmith Vicente (Vincenzo) Laino left his hometown of Basilicata, penniless but full of hope, to seek a change in his destiny in the New World. Soon after arriving in Venezuela, he met his future partner, Leopoldo Serpico. Leopoldo, also of Italian descent, already ran a jewelry workshop called "Joyeria Serpico" in Caracas, specializing in sales and repairs. He immediately recognized Vicente's goldsmithing talent and was particularly impressed by his business acumen, so he proposed a partnership: Leopoldo provided the capital, and Vicente contributed his expertise. Thus, Serpico y Laino was born, destined to become a timeless landmark of luxury watches and jewelry in Caracas. This legendary retailer operated from 1925 to 1966, precisely during the golden age of Venezuela's oil economy. In other words, this GMT-Master sold in 1965 was almost a final swan song before the company's demise—the following year, this prestigious establishment was forever consigned to the annals of history echo



As a history student, I can't help but linger on these subtle details. The permanent closure of Serpico Y Laino in 1966 was not a single event, but a series of tragedies: the founders passed away one after another—Leopoldo Serpico died young, and his partner Vicente Laino passed away in 1959. Although their successors tried their best to keep the business afloat, they could no longer replicate the deep personal friendship and industry influence that the founders had with Swiss watch manufacturers (such as Hans Wilsdorf of Rolex); at the same time, in Venezuela in the 1960s, violent crime and political turmoil were surging like an undercurrent, and the wealthy Serpico and Laino families were repeatedly targeted by kidnappers, with members living in constant fear; and the final fatal blow came from a bomb attack on their "Oriental Jewelry Branch" (Joyería Sucursal del Este)—fire and smoke engulfed the entire store, inventory was reduced to ashes, and the lives of employees and their families were in grave danger. Thus, in 1966, the surviving family members made the painful decision: to liquidate the inventory, return the remaining stock to the Swiss headquarters, and permanently close the hall that had witnessed the dynasty's glory.

Serpico Y Laino thus entered history. Rolex subsequently tightened its policy on dual-signature dials, making such surviving treasures even rarer. Fortunately, these few watches still quietly pierce through the vicissitudes of time, silently binding that story of glory and collapse to our wrists, so that history is not merely faded ink on yellowed pages, but a tangible, palpable, and resonant.

I know I was supposed to stop buying after getting the Rolex 1655 Explorer 2. However, this watch is really irresistible. To be fair, I have indeed have to sell away three watches and trimmed my watch quantities to get this plus traded in a rare Rolex Explorer 1 6610. At the Rolex 6610 needs a longer time to clear the US customs, it has caused some delays. Nevertheless, this watch shall be my last huge purchase for the year.












Rolex "Asymmetrical / Stripe" Wood Box or "Stitch-Edge Leather" Box: Standard Stainless Steel (1675/1 Gilt Dial Era)
 
Outer Box: Texturized green or brown cardboard "stripes" pattern or plain cardboard outer sleeve, often featuring the small Rolex coronet.
 Inner Box: Green or brown leatherette/faux-leather exterior with gold leaf/gilt foil embossing on the lid (Rolex logo/coronet).
 Interior: Natural mahogany wood interior or velvet/suede lining with a central slotted display pad or flexible velvet cuff to hold the Oyster/Jubilee bracelet.

Reference Numbers (if stamped on base): Early inner box codes from this transition period often include ⁠06.00.06⁠ or ⁠11.00.2⁠. (Note: Many mid-60s boxes do not feature a bottom reference number at all).
For a 1965 stainless steel GMT-Master 1675 (typically featuring a glossy gilt dial and either late pointed crown guards or early rounded crown guards), the correct period-accurate inner box is:



Monday, 7 September 2026

Rolex ref 3372 Bubbleback from 1947

I've written about the legendary story of Rolex's "bubble back" watch many times. However, this one before me still gave me a jolt—its near-new condition is a miracle in the world of vintage watches, a sight to behold from afar. Although I already own several similar models, I couldn't resist the allure: old watches are easy to find, brand new ones are rare; and a perfectly pristine vintage bubble back is even rarer. As it lay quietly in my palm, the hands reflecting the glimmer of bygone eras, I felt as if I had traveled back in time to the golden age of mechanical aesthetics.

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Ref. 3373, belongs to the mid-sized "bubble back" series and was created between the late 1930s and 1940s. What truly sets it apart is its extremely rare guilloché bezel—a design considered avant-garde and daring at the time. The stainless steel bezel is machined, etched with intricate, star-like radial patterns, adorned with hour markers. Each line shimmers and dances in the light, exhibiting both industrial precision and Art Deco romance.





The case is a medium-sized Oyster design, approximately 32mm in diameter, with a standard 17mm lug spacing, creating a harmonious and classic proportion. The case back retains the signature convex dome screw-down design; its full curve was created to accommodate the thickness of the automatic rotor, earning it the nickname "bubble back." Turning to the front, the dial is even more exquisite—a rare salmon dial, warm and inviting like sunset, complemented by luminescent Arabic numerals, combining the cool sophistication of military instruments with the modern flair of Art Deco. Pencil-shaped or skeletonized hands glide lightly through the light and shadow, adding a touch of dynamism to the pinkish-orange hue.

The inner workings are equally impressive—equipped with an early 9¾-ligne hunter-style automatic movement, chronometer certified, and featuring a 360-degree rotating rotor, a precursor to perpetual motion technology at the time. The crown is a classic Oyster design with deep fluted recesses, engraved with "Oyster Patent," its substantial feel exuding a sense of its era. Finally, a vintage Rolex spring bracelet completes the look, its metal mesh gently caressing the wrist, seemingly bringing this journey through time to a perfect close.

A wristwatch carries more than just gears and springs; it embodies the aesthetics, craftsmanship, and dreams of an era. This bubble-back watch is the clearest echo of that dream.

Tuesday, 1 September 2026

Vintage cushion watch from the year 1936

A vintage 9k gold Rolex cushion watch is a square shaped timepiece with curved rounded corners  popular from the 1910s through the 1940s.















Key Features
  • Case Shape: Square with soft, rounded corners resembling a small cushion, typically measuring between 30mm and 32mm. This version is the larger one at 32mm.
  • The First Oysters: Many early Rolex cushion models feature the pioneering waterproof Rolex Oystercase from 1926, complete with a patent screw-down crown and screwed front/back bezels. 
  • Dials: Commonly feature white enamel or patina dials, bold Arabic numerals, blued steel hands, and a subsidiary seconds dial at the 6 o'clock position. 
  • Movements: Powered by early manual-wind, 15-to-17 jewel mechanical movements (often signed by Wilsdorf & Davis or Rolex Watch Co.). 
  • Materials: Found in sterling silver (0.925), 9K or 18K yellow/rose/pink gold, and stainless steel.

Friday, 28 August 2026

Girard Perragaux 39 Jewels Gyromatic

The Girard-Perregaux Gyromatic 39 Jewels is a vintage automatic wristwatch from the late 1950s famous for its innovative high-jewel count automatic winding system. 

What Makes the 39 Jewels Special?
  • The Jewel Count: A standard automatic watch movement from that era typically used around 17 to 25 jewels. Girard-Perregaux reached 39 jewels by adding specialized roller bearings inside its bidirectional automatic winding system, called Gyrotrons. 
  • The Gyrotron System: Each of the two Gyrotron wheels contained 7 tiny ruby roller jewels (14 extra jewels total) to reduce friction and wear when winding in both directions. 
  • Design & Size: These vintage pieces typically feature slim profiles with case sizes ranging from 33.5mm to 34mm, elegant dagger or dauphine hands, and prominent "39 Jewels" text on the dial. Mine is a 34mm in stainless steel.








google.com, pub-9153422137839320, DIRECT, f08c47fec0942fa0

紅旗錶:三面紅旗

  2024 年,我將收藏的靈魂與目光,堅定錨定在中國中古腕錶最幽深、也最富傳奇色彩的秘境——「紅旗」。那是一個「仿品如潮,真跡如星」的稀缺世界;每一枚真品,都是被時代風暴掩埋的歷史殘卷,靜默承載著一段段沉浮往事。 在特定歷史時期,手錶並非日常用品,而是極少數權貴與精英方能擁有的...

google.com, pub-9153422137839320, DIRECT, f08c47fec0942fa0