Rolex GMT Master- Serpico y Laino Dial - Fat Font Pepsi Bezel- Jubilee from 1965

The GMT-Master was originally a navigation tool tailored by Rolex for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s, and remains a legendary piece in the brand's flagship collection. The 1675 model, launched in 1959, was produced until 1980, spanning two decades.

However, this particular watch is far from ordinary—it boasts a rare gilt dial, its luminescent coating still gleaming with a warm amber glow in the dark; the blue and red colour scheme on the aluminium rotating bezel makes it instantly recognisable as a GMT Master, the contrast of blue and red always being my favorite colour combination. Even more precious is the double seal of Serpico Y Laino, Venezuela's top retailer, engraved on both the dial and the case back—this boutique once rivaled Rolex and Patek Philippe, holding an exclusive monopoly on the distribution rights of top Swiss brands in Venezuela.

It's important to understand that in the 1960s, these GMT watches were not luxury items, but rather practical "tool watches" for pilots and professionals. Annual sales were far lower than those of the gold and steel watches of yesteryear, and certainly not as astonishing as they are today. Therefore, it was common for a watch to complete its movement production in 1964, sometimes not being assembled and sold until 1965. Rolex relied on numerous component suppliers in its early days, making its scale incomparable to today's watchmaking giant.

The creation of Serpico y Laino jewelry is intricately intertwined with a history of Italian immigration across the ocean. In the early 20th century, goldsmith Vicente (Vincenzo) Laino left his hometown of Basilicata, penniless but full of hope, to seek a change in his destiny in the New World. Soon after arriving in Venezuela, he met his future partner, Leopoldo Serpico. Leopoldo, also of Italian descent, already ran a jewelry workshop called "Joyeria Serpico" in Caracas, specializing in sales and repairs. He immediately recognized Vicente's goldsmithing talent and was particularly impressed by his business acumen, so he proposed a partnership: Leopoldo provided the capital, and Vicente contributed his expertise. Thus, Serpico y Laino was born, destined to become a timeless landmark of luxury watches and jewelry in Caracas. This legendary retailer operated from 1925 to 1966, precisely during the golden age of Venezuela's oil economy. In other words, this GMT-Master sold in 1965 was almost a final swan song before the company's demise—the following year, this prestigious establishment was forever consigned to the annals of history echo

As a history student, I can't help but linger on these subtle details. The permanent closure of Serpico Y Laino in 1966 was not a single event, but a series of tragedies: the founders passed away one after another—Leopoldo Serpico died young, and his partner Vicente Laino passed away in 1959. Although their successors tried their best to keep the business afloat, they could no longer replicate the deep personal friendship and industry influence that the founders had with Swiss watch manufacturers (such as Hans Wilsdorf of Rolex); at the same time, in Venezuela in the 1960s, violent crime and political turmoil were surging like an undercurrent, and the wealthy Serpico and Laino families were repeatedly targeted by kidnappers, with members living in constant fear; and the final fatal blow came from a bomb attack on their "Oriental Jewelry Branch" (Joyería Sucursal del Este)—fire and smoke engulfed the entire store, inventory was reduced to ashes, and the lives of employees and their families were in grave danger. Thus, in 1966, the surviving family members made the painful decision: to liquidate the inventory, return the remaining stock to the Swiss headquarters, and permanently close the hall that had witnessed the dynasty's glory.

Serpico Y Laino thus entered history. Rolex subsequently tightened its policy on dual-signature dials, making such surviving treasures even rarer. Fortunately, these few watches still quietly pierce through the vicissitudes of time, silently binding that story of glory and collapse to our wrists, so that history is not merely faded ink on yellowed pages, but a tangible, palpable, and resonant.

I know I was supposed to stop buying after getting the Rolex 1655 Explorer 2. However, this watch is really irresistible. To be fair, I have indeed have to sell away three watches and trimmed my watch quantities to get this plus traded in a rare Rolex Explorer 1 6610. At the Rolex 6610 needs a longer time to clear the US customs, it has caused some delays. Nevertheless, this watch shall be my last huge purchase for the year.

Rolex "Asymmetrical / Stripe" Wood Box or "Stitch-Edge Leather" Box: Standard Stainless Steel (1675/1 Gilt Dial Era)

 

Outer Box: Texturized green or brown cardboard "stripes" pattern or plain cardboard outer sleeve, often featuring the small Rolex coronet.

 Inner Box: Green or brown leatherette/faux-leather exterior with gold leaf/gilt foil embossing on the lid (Rolex logo/coronet).

 Interior: Natural mahogany wood interior or velvet/suede lining with a central slotted display pad or flexible velvet cuff to hold the Oyster/Jubilee bracelet.

Reference Numbers (if stamped on base): Early inner box codes from this transition period often include ⁠06.00.06⁠ or ⁠11.00.2⁠. (Note: Many mid-60s boxes do not feature a bottom reference number at all).

For a 1965 stainless steel GMT-Master 1675 (typically featuring a glossy gilt dial and either late pointed crown guards or early rounded crown guards), the correct period-accurate inner box is:

Rolex ref 3372 Bubbleback from 1947

I've written about the legendary story of Rolex's "bubble back" watch many times. However, this one before me still gave me a jolt—its near-new condition is a miracle in the world of vintage watches, a sight to behold from afar. Although I already own several similar models, I couldn't resist the allure: old watches are easy to find, brand new ones are rare; and a perfectly pristine vintage bubble back is even rarer. As it lay quietly in my palm, the hands reflecting the glimmer of bygone eras, I felt as if I had traveled back in time to the golden age of mechanical aesthetics.

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Ref. 3373, belongs to the mid-sized "bubble back" series and was created between the late 1930s and 1940s. What truly sets it apart is its extremely rare guilloché bezel—a design considered avant-garde and daring at the time. The stainless steel bezel is machined, etched with intricate, star-like radial patterns, adorned with hour markers. Each line shimmers and dances in the light, exhibiting both industrial precision and Art Deco romance.

The case is a medium-sized Oyster design, approximately 32mm in diameter, with a standard 17mm lug spacing, creating a harmonious and classic proportion. The case back retains the signature convex dome screw-down design; its full curve was created to accommodate the thickness of the automatic rotor, earning it the nickname "bubble back." Turning to the front, the dial is even more exquisite—a rare salmon dial, warm and inviting like sunset, complemented by luminescent Arabic numerals, combining the cool sophistication of military instruments with the modern flair of Art Deco. Pencil-shaped or skeletonized hands glide lightly through the light and shadow, adding a touch of dynamism to the pinkish-orange hue.

The inner workings are equally impressive—equipped with an early 9¾-ligne hunter-style automatic movement, chronometer certified, and featuring a 360-degree rotating rotor, a precursor to perpetual motion technology at the time. The crown is a classic Oyster design with deep fluted recesses, engraved with "Oyster Patent," its substantial feel exuding a sense of its era. Finally, a vintage Rolex spring bracelet completes the look, its metal mesh gently caressing the wrist, seemingly bringing this journey through time to a perfect close.

A wristwatch carries more than just gears and springs; it embodies the aesthetics, craftsmanship, and dreams of an era. This bubble-back watch is the clearest echo of that dream.

Vintage cushion watch from the year 1936

A vintage 9k gold Rolex cushion watch is a square shaped timepiece with curved rounded corners  popular from the 1910s through the 1940s.

Key Features

Case Shape: Square with soft, rounded corners resembling a small cushion, typically measuring between 30mm and 32mm. This version is the larger one at 32mm.
The First Oysters: Many early Rolex cushion models feature the pioneering waterproof Rolex Oystercase from 1926, complete with a patent screw-down crown and screwed front/back bezels. 
Dials: Commonly feature white enamel or patina dials, bold Arabic numerals, blued steel hands, and a subsidiary seconds dial at the 6 o'clock position. 
Movements: Powered by early manual-wind, 15-to-17 jewel mechanical movements (often signed by Wilsdorf & Davis or Rolex Watch Co.). 
Materials: Found in sterling silver (0.925), 9K or 18K yellow/rose/pink gold, and stainless steel.

Girard Perragaux 39 Jewels Gyromatic

The Girard-Perregaux Gyromatic 39 Jewels is a vintage automatic wristwatch from the late 1950s famous for its innovative high-jewel count automatic winding system. 

What Makes the 39 Jewels Special?

The Jewel Count: A standard automatic watch movement from that era typically used around 17 to 25 jewels. Girard-Perregaux reached 39 jewels by adding specialized roller bearings inside its bidirectional automatic winding system, called Gyrotrons. 
The Gyrotron System: Each of the two Gyrotron wheels contained 7 tiny ruby roller jewels (14 extra jewels total) to reduce friction and wear when winding in both directions. 
Design & Size: These vintage pieces typically feature slim profiles with case sizes ranging from 33.5mm to 34mm, elegant dagger or dauphine hands, and prominent "39 Jewels" text on the dial. Mine is a 34mm in stainless steel.

Vintage Octagonal Oyster from 1926

The early octagonal Rolex Oyster, launched in 1926, is the historical design that established the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. Featuring a pioneering three-piece screwed-down system and an innovative crown, these 32mm Art Deco pieces came in early coin edged bezel alongside wire-style lugs.

The case has weathered the test of time, but its sharp octagonal shape resembles a geometric poem meticulously sculpted by time. Employing a three-piece case construction with fixed linear lugs, it measures approximately 32 to 33 mm with a diagonal span of 38 to 39 mm. Its distinct angles and unique shape seem to solidify time itself into a three-dimensional work of art.

* Sealing: The coin-edge (grooved) screw-down bezel and case back require specialized tools to tighten into the middle case, creating a tight waterproof seal.

* Iconic Design: The large knurled screw-down crown is the most recognizable visual feature of the early Rolex Oyster patent system. This octagonal timepiece debuted alongside the classic cushion-shaped Oyster watch, available in both stainless steel and 9K gold (including yellow and pink gold versions), together writing a legendary prologue to the Oyster family. The angular design, distinct from contemporary classics, reveals the brand's pioneering spirit of bold experimentation in its early days.

A closer look at the dial reveals two main categories: enamel and metal. The latter's advantage lies in its ability to effectively prevent the hairline cracks that develop in enamel over time.

Above the small seconds subdial, the prominent inscription "ULTRA PRIMA" is engraved. Going back to the 1920s and 1930s, Rolex used three grades to assess the accuracy and quality of its manual-winding movements:

1. Prima – Good timekeeping performance.

2. Extra Prima – Even higher precision.

3. Ultra Prima – The highest grade, requiring rigorous testing in six positions and at different temperatures to achieve observatory-grade precision.

In 1926, founder Hans Wilsdorf had just obtained the patent for the "Oyster" sealed case, which quickly led to the creation of this timepiece. Its appearance is almost identical to the famous watch worn by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her 1927 crossing of the English Channel—a historic feat designed to demonstrate the exceptional water resistance of the Oyster case.

It's worth noting that this watch was featured prominently at the 2026 Rolex Oyster Centennial Exhibition. Those rare and grand exhibitions comprehensively presented Wilsdorf's century-long journey from his early days to becoming an industry giant, showcasing numerous rare vintage watches and historical documents. For Rolex collectors, it was a pilgrimage site, embodying the brand's spirit of "perpetual motion" and continuous challenge.

I vividly remember venturing into the world of watch collecting in 1988. Early Oyster models were incredibly sought after, coveted by countless collectors. At that time, I had just entered the workforce, and the price of a single antique watch could easily equal several months' salary. To acquire my beloved timepiece, I worked multiple jobs day and night, painstakingly saving every penny until I finally succeeded.

That passion for timepieces also fueled my drive in my career, propelling me to strive for advancement and promotion—because that meant greater rewards. In those youthful years, the tangible value of money certainly outweighed the prestige of power and status.

Subsequently, as the trend of sports watches swept the globe, these early geometric timepieces gradually faded from collectors' memories, almost forgotten. It wasn't until Rolex's centenary celebration, with its stunning re-emergence, that the craze was reignited, making it an unparalleled sensation. Even after more than a century, the movement within this watch still runs smoothly and keeps precise time, as if time has left no trace on its gears.

Looking back at Rolex's development over the past three decades, its design language seems to have stagnated, and its innovative edge has become increasingly restrained—most new models are merely repeated refinements of the classic styles from the early 20th century to the 1970s and 80s, with gradually enlarged cases. Perhaps, having reached its peak, the brand has chosen to proceed calmly and steadily on its established path, seeking stability. However, the brand's current success also heavily relies on marketing and public relations efforts to maintain its halo.

Furthermore, with the proliferation of high-quality counterfeits on the market, almost indistinguishable from the real thing, and with so many wearers making it difficult to tell the difference, the brand's unique charm is inevitably tarnished, causing some rational consumers to hesitate. This is why I have a particular fondness for antique timepieces—their exceptional value and profound historical significance far surpass that of modern watches, making them a true haven for collectors.

However, collecting antique watches is not merely a matter of fleeting interest. Collectors must delve deeply into the historical context and aesthetic trends of each era, reading widely and diligently. Fortunately, the internet provides access to a vast sea of ​​information; yet ultimately, it still depends on the collector's own diligence and discerning eye to distinguish the genuine from the crowd. Some might argue that with today's diverse entertainment options, collecting antique watches is a rare privilege.

Last week, I met Mr. Leung, a Hong Kong collector of antique watches. During our conversation, he succinctly observed: "Most people start collecting with new watches; however, as time passes and experience grows, one gradually comes to appreciate the profound charm and extraordinary value of antique watches."

How true this is—the joy of collecting lies not in newness or age, but in the enduring quality that comes with the passage of time. This article is dedicated to fellow enthusiasts and hopes to inspire more young people to transcend time and experience the boundless charm of antique watch collecting.

Rolex ref 6309 Thunderbird Bubbleback Datejust Yellow gold (from 1955)

Previously I have bought a 18k Rose gold Rolex ref 6309 Thunderbird Bubbleback Datejust Rose in May 2022. My focus is to grow the so called Big Bubbleback series as the Rolex 6309 is using the semi Bubbleback movement.

After several years, I have finally come across a 18k 6309 in yellow gold. Besides the difference in colour of the gold, the bezel is also different from the rose gold crisscross “clous de Paris” design engine turned bezel design.

Rolex 6390 in rose gold, Rolex 6309 in yellow gold and Rolex 1625 in yellow gold

Timeline of Turn-O-Graphs from the internet:

source https://www.reddit.com/r/rolex/comments/1pf3aud/cool_rolex_of_the_day_2895_6309_turnograph_with/

• 1952-1953: Ref. 6202 debuts, the first Turn-O-Graph. While the steel model resembles the soon-to-be-released Submariner, the two-tone model has a gold bezel that most associate with the later "Thunderbird" models.
• 1953-1956: Ref. 6309 ditches the Sub-style bezel in favor of the gold "Thunderbird" one. Full gold is now an option, as is a left-hand crown.
• 1956-1959: Ref. 6609 is "basically the same as 6309 but with updated 1065 movement (based on the cal. 1030 but with date)" This is the model that sparked the nickname "Thunderbird" because Rolex famously gifted some to the USAF Thunderbirds.
• 1957: Ref. 6602, a rare Datejust model called the "Transcontinental," is the only Rolex ever made with a 12-hour rotating bezel afaik. Someone posted this one here years ago; I assumed it was fake at first. Sotheby's calls it a "6602/6609" but 6602 is what's actually engraved on the case in every known instance. Here's a TRF thread about another example.
• 1959-1976: Ref. 1625 gets a movement upgrade to the Caliber 1500 series. At first it sports a 1565 movement, with 26 jewels vibrating at 5 beats per second. Starting in 1965, the 25-jewel 1575 movement ups the rate to 5.5 beats per second while increasing the power reserve from 42 to 48 hours.
• 1977-1987: Ref. 16250/16253/16258 gets a movement upgrade to Caliber 3035, now vibrating at 8 beats per second like modern Rolexes do.
• 1988 - 2003: Ref. 16263/16264 gets upgraded to a sapphire crystal and Caliber 3135 movement. No more full gold models.
• 2004-2011: Ref. 116261/116263/116264 gets a more modern case, new bezel design, and Caliber 3135. Rose gold + steel is a new option. Small numbers of a special edition with a green seconds handmysteriously hit Japan in 2011, and a few European AD's a couple years later (though for some reason they have 2005 serial numbers).