Jaeger Lecoultre 18k gold Futurematic

還記得我曾提起的那只 E502 嗎？那是一枚直徑 37 毫米、全鋼打造的大尺寸歐洲版腕錶，出身積家（Jaeger‑LeCoultre）傳奇的 Porthole「舷窗」系列，血脈不言自明。據聞，當年僅有的 3500 枚 E502 之中，專為歐洲市場刻有「JLC」字樣者，不過五百枚；其餘遠渡重洋的版本，則統一以「LeCoultre」之名銷往美國。本以為這樣的珍稀早已絕跡，萬萬沒料到今日竟能再遇一枚全 18K 黃金打造的 Futurematic E501——須知那個年代出產的金錶多為 14K，18K 實屬罕見，一見傾心，難以自拔。

積家 Futurematic E501，採用 18K 黃金材質，是 1950 年代自動上鍊腕錶中一抹不折不扣的異色存在。它捨棄傳統側置錶冠，以大膽的未來主義語言，在 1951 至 1959 年間靜靜書寫著製錶史的革新篇章。錶盤佈局極富秩序感：左右相對的兩枚小錶盤，如夜空中遙望的雙星——左側顯示動力儲存，右側為小秒盤，理性之美與機械詩意在此對話。

這枚腕錶自有一股沉穩復古的氣韻。金質錶殼線條溫潤流暢，弧形錶耳若羽翼輕展；米色調錶盤宛如舊日時光中的一抹暖陽，12 點下方低調的「Automatic」字樣，輕聲訴說著它自動上鍊的靈魂。金色時標如星辰點綴，細長的太子妃指針劃出優雅軌跡。歲月在奶油香檳色面盤上留下的微痕，非但不減其美，反而添上一份獨有的溫度與故事感。

這款 Futurematic 之所以聞名，正因其「缺失的錶冠」。錶冠隱於錶殼背面，刻有「Slide do not lift」（滑動，請勿抬起）字樣，僅供調校時間，無需上鍊。內藏的機芯承襲積家自 1946 年 476 型以來的技術演進，是1950 年代初期自動機芯革新的代表作。約 40 小時動力儲存與停秒功能，讓它既是製錶史的里程碑，也是今日仍可安心佩戴的可靠夥伴。

實心 18K 黃金雕琢的 37 毫米錶殼稜角分明，錶耳向外舒展，勾勒出動感而精緻的線條。搭襯一條深棕色皮革錶帶，舉手投足之間，盡顯二十世紀中期積家那份戰後重建時代的創意底蘊與從容風度。

誕生於 1950 年代的它，見證了積家從傳統製錶向現代美學的轉身——以金質錶殼詮釋日常奢華，以流暢線條呼應時代審美。即便錶盤未刻參考編號，仍可透過錶殼暗記識別其真身；然而它那渾然天成的設計語言，早已無聲地宣示了自己的身份——那是積家於瑞士製錶黃金時代，對纖薄、流暢與精準的極致詮釋。

Futurematic E501，不僅是一枚腕錶，更是一個時代的縮影，專為審美獨到、慧眼如炬的收藏家而生。

https://adm-horloger.com/products/futurematic-1

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e501-jaeger-lecoultre-futurematic

https://pushers.io/listings/rare-jlc-futurematic-in-steel-e501

The Futurematic line, produced from 1951-1958, featured crownless, fully automatic designs with no manual winding, emphasizing a large balance wheel for precision and innovations like extended power reserve and hacking.  Reference E501 used Calibers 497, 497/1, or 827, while E502 used evolved versions: 817 or 837.  Both shared core traits—17 jewels, ~18,000 vph, ~40-hour reserve, dual hacking (balance and auto-stop), suspended bidirectional rotor, and antimagnetic protection—but differed in dial execution and rarity.

Dial Display

E501 showed power reserve and constant seconds via traditional subdial hands at 9 and 3 o’clock.  E502, nicknamed “Porthole,” used innovative apertures: a rotating disc with arrow for seconds at 3, and a color-changing sliding indicator (red/blue for low/high reserve to silver when full) at 9.

Production and Evolution

E501 dominated production (~52,500 with Cal. 497; 1,000 with 827), while scarcer E502 totaled ~4,000 (~3,500 with 817; 500 with 837), introduced around 1956 as an aesthetic upgrade.  Calibers 817/837 refined 497/827 with porthole compatibility but retained mechanical similarities.

Tudor Oyster Perpetual Ranger II (aka "Prince Oyster Perpetual Ranger II," model 9111/0

This Tudor Oyster Perpetual Ranger II (sometimes also known as the "Prince Oyster Perpetual Ranger II," model 9111/0) is a representative of the sporty style of the 1970s. As a vintage automatic watch, it left a unique mark on the watchmaking world of its time with its robust stainless steel cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet.

The watch has a diameter of 38mm, which was quite bold by the standards of the time. It is approximately 10mm thick, with a stainless steel case and screw-down crown, and is covered with a durable acrylic crystal. This particular version is a rare black dial model, featuring a quick-adjustable date window at 3 o'clock. The hour markers are available in either baton or Arabic numeral styles. Early models were equipped with automatic movements (such as the 2784, based on ETA), featuring a central seconds hand and 25 jewels, coated with tritium-based luminescent material, exuding a subtle yet practical spirit.

The bracelet is a one-piece stainless steel Oyster design with a folding clasp, a robust yet streamlined structure. This watch, produced between approximately 1970 and 1979, is water-resistant to 200 meters, showcasing Tudor's pursuit of performance in sports watches at the time.

At first glance, the Ranger II might be mistaken for a sibling of the Rolex Oysterquartz, but its design language is actually more avant-garde. Especially noteworthy are its unique recessed dial edge and bezel treatment, almost comparable only to the Rolex Oysterquartz's predecessors—Ref. 1530 and 1630—yet appearing even earlier, making it intriguing.

I first saw this watch more than 30 years ago and I couldn't appreciate its design then. After several decades, this design actually grows on me and I have decided to get one.

Titus Calypsomatic ref 7085

Perhaps it's because my birth chart favors metal and water elements, but I've always had a deep-seated affinity for watches, especially dive watches—they're as silent as the deep sea, yet they encapsulate the flow of time. Among them, the Titus Calypsomatic ref. 7085, a vintage dive watch, particularly captivates me.

It belongs to the third generation of the Calypsomatic series. This series has five generations: 5913 is the first and second generation, 7085 is the third, 7840 is the fourth, and 7985 is the fifth. This watch was produced by the Swiss brand Titus (also known as Solvil & Titus) in the early to mid-1960s. Compared to its predecessors like the 5913, its upgrades are significant: the dial features a glossy lacquer finish and a small logo printed in reverse gold—gold foil beneath the lacquer, a style similar to Rolex; the luminous material has been changed from radium to tritium, and "T Swiss Made T" is printed at the 6 o'clock position.

The 37–38 mm case diameter (excluding the crown) is particularly well-suited to Asian wrists, reflecting contemporary collectors' preference for moderate sizes. The lugs are approximately 42–48 mm apart and 20 mm wide; the screw-down case back is engraved with the serial number "7085," retaining an unpolished, rustic texture. For me, watches under 40 mm are the most comfortable to wear, and reading the time feels effortless.

The dial's craftsmanship is particularly special, colloquially known in Hong Kong as a "lacquered dial." The gold plating or lacquer finish, over time, oxidizes, potentially developing a unique "chocolate" color, reminiscent of tropical pasta. The hands are lollipop-shaped (if Mercedes hands are present, it's a later replacement), paired with a large date window and a cyclops lens to magnify the numerals. Because it's a purely diving tool watch, those with intact dials are now rare, most bearing the marks of time.

The unidirectional rotating bezel can be used for clockwise or counter-clockwise movements, with a triangle marker replacing the previous dot at the 12 o'clock position. The most eye-catching feature is undoubtedly the iconic oversized "bullet" crown (approximately 7.4 mm in diameter), a screw-down design with no lettering, only a three-dimensional raised emblem—the largest crown in the entire Calypsomatic series, hence its nickname "The Big Crown." Its appearance is extremely similar to the Rolex Submariner 5508 or 5510, often referred to as a "people's Rolex." However, in my eyes, it is far from a mere substitute; rather, it is an independent piece combining high value with classic diving spirit, housing the ETA 2472 automatic movement with 21 jewels, and the rotor engraved with "Solvil et Titus."

In the later stages of the 7085 model series, the brand introduced a new "small logo" dial. This dial still has a glossy lacquer finish, but the gold foil printing process is unique: the gold background is located beneath the lacquer, rather than printed on top, a technique similar to that used by Rolex. A closer look reveals a significantly reduced size of the logo and "Titus" lettering, and the "Calypsomatic, 21 Jewels" inscription is positioned closer to the center of the dial. This type of dial marks the complete transition from radium to tritium luminescence.

Two pieces in my collection perfectly exemplify this transition: one is an early "Big Logo" dial with blue and red accents and white markers; the other is a later "Small Logo" dial with an all-black dial. This transitional period, mixed with leftover parts from previous generations, becomes a fascinating historical footnote.

Despite its niche status, this watch has a loyal following among Western collectors. Its price has quietly risen in recent years, with many collectors viewing it as a potential "blue-chip" item and continuously seeking pieces in good condition.

It inherits the aesthetic essence of early Rolex Submariners without crown guards, yet its price is much more affordable. As a tool watch from the 1960s, its wear and tear is inevitable, and it is precisely these marks of time that give it a unique collectible charm.

To be honest, I have a love-hate relationship with this Titus Calypsomatic—this is my fifth one. The previous times, I reluctantly parted with it because friends jokingly advised me, "You already have a Rolex 5508, why keep this one?" However, the simple rhythm of the 7085 movement, especially that large and striking bullet crown, always kept me captivated. So, without realizing it, I rediscovered it, like revisiting a silent and profound old time.

Vintage Citizen 51-2273 Diver Watch (Jan 1980) versus (Feb 1980)

The following are the new old stock Vintage Citizen 51-2273 diver watches from Jan 1980 & Feb 1980. From the outward view, both looks similar. In vintage watch collection, sometimes the difference is in the small details. The prices can varies according to these small details

Looking similar 

 There are dial differences with one stating Citizen Automatic, 21 Jewels Water Resistant 150M vs

Citizen Automatic, Water Resistant 150M (without the 21 Jewels)

The Date disc showing one with Japanese wordings

One is 17 Jewels vs 21 Jewels

Finally, one is slightly thinner then the other 

In summary, the Jan 1980 watch is slightly thicker than the Feb 1980 issued one, plus it is made for the Japanese market and it has 21 Jewels vs 17 jewels for the International market.

A Vintage Citizen Diving Watch Covered in Barnacles from 1983

A Vintage Citizen Diving Watch Covered in Barnacles

The following are informations from the internet: During a typical Saturday afternoon stroll on Long Reef Beach in Australia, Neil Blacks from Cromer stumbled upon a gift from time and the sea—a watch covered in barnacles.

“At first I realized it was a watch, but its dial and case were completely encased in layers of barnacles, as if it had rested quietly on a reef or seabed before being washed ashore by a giant wave,” Neil recalled. He tried gently washing it with lemon and grapefruit juice, and to his amazement, the watch still moved—the before-and-after photos clearly show the second hand had indeed moved, proving it was still “alive.”

This discovery was thrilling. Realizing its value, Neil took the watch to Citizen Australia in Brookville, which then forwarded it to the Tokyo headquarters. The watch was authenticated by the product quality department at the Tanashi factory as being produced in 1977. Based on his knowledge of vintage Citizen diving watches, it can be deduced that its model number is 52-0110, equipped with a Type 1 dial.

Although the watch was discovered in 1983, how long it had been submerged in the saltwater of the vast Pacific Ocean remains a mystery.

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/03/citizen-promaster-diver-200m-fujitsubo-nb6021.html

https://manofmany.com/watches/citizen-promaster-mechanical-diver-200m-nb6021

https://wornandwound.com/review/affordable-vintage-citizen-52-0110/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/vintage-review-citizen-62-6198-challenge-diver/#gref

I have collected many watches of various brands. Some are easier to acquire but some are difficult to find. The Japanese Citizen diver watches in relatively good conditions are really few and are hard to find as most people at that time prefer wearing dress watches and only those who were in serious diving sports will buy them. As such, many of these watches are in used conditions. The early 1960s one are most difficult to find.

Lucky to be able to acquired these in relatively good conditions

Together with Antonio's collections

Vintage Citizen 150m diver ref 4-540115 (from June 1969)

This is another used Citizen 150M dive watch. This legendary 150-meter dive watch from Citizen, with 21 jewels, model number 4-540115 (62-5370), was produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s. According to Mitka, it is not the first Diver by Citizen, but the first model to hit international markets in 1969 plus its mid ranged pricing made it a popular choice with professional and hobby divers alike, gaining the popular nickname: “Challenge diver” 

It features a robust stainless steel case, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a screw-down case back, providing water resistance to 150 meters, which was standard at the time. The striking luminous hour markers stand out against the black dial, while the Benz hands are reminiscent of Rolex watches. The date display at 3 o'clock is uniquely designed. With a diameter of approximately 40 mm, it is both practical and aesthetically pleasing, remaining comfortable to wear even today. It is powered by a robust and reliable Japanese-made 21-jewel automatic movement. Like Seiko's 62MAS and 6105, this is a classic in the history of Japanese dive watches.

Due to its limited production and high market value, this watch is recommended for collectors and those seeking a vintage timepiece suitable for everyday wear. Luckily, a good friend parted with it! Thank you, Antonio!

The Citizen 4-540115 looks similar to the Citizen 150m diver Crystal Date, AUDS 52802-Y, except for the hands (i.e. Mercedes  hands vs the straight pencil hands.

Besides the differences in hands design, the back case designs are also different 

Left: Citizen 150m diver Crystal Date, AUDS 52802-Y (from May 1968)

Right top : Vintage Citizen 150m diver ref  4-540115 (from June 1969), 

Right Bottom : Vintage Citizen 51-2273 Diver Watch (from Jan 1980)

https://mitka.co.uk/citizen-150m-diver-6590163y/

https://serial-number-decoder.co.uk/citizen/citizen.htm?awc=aw&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1724404730&gbraid=0AAAAAD2uHpFhBlIgTdVBC24z4LAqqAVMl&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4eHLBhCzARIsAJ2NZoKHwLDhBVurE7fwsNoIu_zSL9LPL5NS6CzIqCDuBXnHe3Hrv4wikioaAjJ6EALw_wcB

https://sweep-hand.org/citizens-vintage-divers-1962-to-1980/