Rolex ref 3599 (from 1941) hooded bubbleback 勞力士泡泡背

Launched in 1931 as the world’s first reliable self-winding wristwatch, the initial version of the Rolex Oyster perpetual is affectionately known as ‘bubbleback’ 泡泡背today by collectors because of its bulbous case back. The case back on a “bubbleback” is significantly larger than case backs from other watches during the same era to allow the space for the winding rotor and self-winding module on the movement. Therefore, Rolex’s iconic “Bubbleback” gets its name from the protruding rounded case back designed to accommodate their patented self-winding movement and rotor. 

The hooded version of the bubbleback was designed as a variation in the 1940s to ‘re-invent’ the case design but was unable to revive sales and soon ceased production. Some said the hooded bubbleback were produced for the US market. Amongst one of the most sought after variants of the legendary “Bubbleback” series, the hooded is the rarest examples of the model available today. I was very fortunate to add another Rolex hooded bubbleback watch over the weekend. I have to trade away a Vacheron Constantin Le Coultre mystery dial.

As mentioned earlier, the first Bubbleback models were introduced in the early 1930s and production continued for approximately 20 years. Similar to the standard “Bubbleback” watch, which came in many variations, the Rolex “hooded” examples had various finishes on the hoods from smooth ref 3065 to ribbed, engine-turned to vertical stripping and from steel to yellow gold and rose gold ref 3159 and to scallop hoods ref 3801. This design concept made a visual impact, and as the present model demonstrates, the watch grows in size and presence, rendering a striking appearance. I have happy to be able to collect 6 of these hooded bubbleback.

This Rolex reference 3599 hooded bubbleback is defined by its unusual case design featuring a flat cylindrical bezel of considerable width and “hoods” covering the open space normally found in between the lugs instead of a usual beveled edge bezel. It is a standard 32mm diameter. White dial with closed minute track, hours minutes and seconds at center. Plexiglas crystal, steel case back. Movement, case back and dial signed. 1942 This is unusual ROLEX Oyster Perpetual "OVETTE". Hooded Bubbleback Reference 3599 made for the European markets. Normally, the Rolex hooded Bubbleback were made for the US market. Early Rolex was very adventurous in their design and use of materials.

Normally, the ref 3599 is an all steel hooded bubbleback watch but this one has a steel case with hoods with gold striations at 6 and 12 o'clock. The two tone hoods remind us of the Rolex Prince Zebra two tone colours aka tiger straps, making it a rather unique watch. 

Comparison between the Rolex Prince two tone zebra and the Rolex hooded

The watch has appeared in an overseas auction 

Latest update:

Just sent the watch for a thorough service and cleaning.

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/watches/article/rolex-bubbleback

Rolex 18k gold 1625 Turn O Graph (from 1962)

The Evolution of Rolex Turn-O-Graph: A Journey Through Time

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph holds a significant place in the history of Rolex watches. It not only marks the birth of the first Rolex tool watch but also introduces the concept of a rotating bezel to the world of horology. In this article, we will take a journey through time, exploring the evolution of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph and its impact on the watch industry.

The Birth of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph made its debut in 1953 with the reference 6202. It was the first serially produced Rolex watch to feature a rotating bezel. This innovative feature allowed wearers to easily track time intervals, making it a practical tool for various activities. The ability to time anything from long-distance calls to automobile races to boiling an egg earned the watch its name, Turn-O-Graph.

## Integration into the Datejust Collection

Following the success of the initial Turn-O-Graph model, Rolex introduced the reference 6309. This model was a part of the Datejust collection and featured a rotating bezel made of the same material as the case. This integration allowed Rolex to differentiate its product categories and prevent competition within its range. The Turn-O-Graph became a more elegant wristwatch option for businessmen, while the Submariner catered to divers.

The Thunderbird Connection

In 1956, Rolex created a special variant of the Turn-O-Graph, known as the reference 6609, to honor the Thunderbirds, a U.S. Air Force squadron known for their aerial demonstrations. This model was based on the 36mm Oyster Case of the Datejust but featured an 18k gold case and a rotating bezel. Rolex offered this new reference to the Thunderbirds, giving it the nickname by which it is best known in the United States.

## The Transition to Reference 1625

Rolex discontinued the reference 6609 in 1959 and replaced it with the reference 1625. This model was produced from 1959 to 1977 and was available in two variants. The first variant featured a two-tone steel and yellow gold construction, similar to its predecessor. The second variant featured a steel case with a white gold bezel, offering a more refined aesthetic.

## Collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph

Collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph can be a rewarding pursuit for watch enthusiasts. The four main references, including the 6202, 6309, 6609, and 1625, represent different milestones in the evolution of this iconic timepiece. Each reference has its own unique characteristics and design elements that make it desirable to collectors.

The reference 6202 holds historical significance as the first Rolex tool watch with a rotating bezel. Its rarity and pioneering status make it a highly sought-after piece. The reference 6309, on the other hand, showcases the integration of the Turn-O-Graph into the Datejust collection, offering a more refined and elegant look.

The reference 6609, with its 18k gold case and connection to the Thunderbirds, carries a special charm and is often referred to by its nickname. Lastly, the reference 1625, available in two-tone steel and yellow gold or steel with a white gold bezel, offers a unique combination of elegance and sportiness.

Conclusion

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph has left an indelible mark on the world of horology. From its humble beginnings as the first Rolex tool watch with a rotating bezel to its integration into the prestigious Datejust collection, the Turn-O-Graph has evolved and adapted to the changing tastes and demands of watch enthusiasts.

Whether you are captivated by the historical significance of the reference 6202, the elegance of the reference 6309, the connection to the Thunderbirds with the reference 6609, or the unique design of the reference 1625, collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph is a journey that spans decades and showcases the mastery of Rolex craftsmanship.

Embrace the legacy of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph and embark on your own quest to collect these remarkable timepieces. Each reference tells a story and represents a milestone in the evolution of Rolex watches. Let the Turn-O-Graph be a symbol of your passion for horology and a testament to the enduring legacy of Rolex.The Rolex ref 1625 Turn O Graph is often called Thunderbird by some collectors. In Hong Kong, it is called 爬山虎. Most of the ref 1625 is in steel with yellow gold or white gold bezel. There is also 18k version. In the past, my preference has been with steel watches but these few years, I have started to collect more solid gold watches as they are rarer and the overall conditions tend to be better.

Below is a solid gold Ref 1625 from the year 1962. The early 1625 has the pointed hour and minute hands. The overall condition is good as people tended to take care of their gold watches better then steel watches.

Comparison between a steel & gold versus solid gold 1625

Rolex 6309 & 1625 gold and bicolor 

Sherpa Divette diver ref 110/116 from 1958

The Sherpa line from Enicar was introduced in 1956; it was inspired by a series of explorations happening around the world, especially after an Enicar was used in a summit of Mount Everest. There are several models within the Dive family starting with the Dive 600 model, which appeared around 1958. 

This Sherpa Divette is the first generation the Dive models from 1958, as seen in the bold luminous indexes, rotating black bezel with  several round markers at the top 12, 3,6,9 positions, and the unusual center seconds hand. 

The glossy black gilt dial with elongated indexes gives another level of vintage flare. 

The reference 100/116 is fitted with a rotor caliber with 17 jewels that was introduced in Q2, 1958. The Divette measures at 36mm, but the relatively wide-set flat bezel gives it a larger appearance than its actual size

July - September 2023 Q3 review

As a watch collector, one of the most difficult tasks is to stay focus. For the third quarter, you can clearly see that I have restarted my Seiko Bullhead collections with the acquisition of Blue and Brown Bullhead International versions. In order to complete the Bullhead collections, there are two more Made for Japan brown versions of the Seiko 6138-0040. 

Since it will require much time and luck in getting the JLC Futurematic potholes or the Jaeger special dial Memovox, or the Lemania nuclear sub and the other collectibles watches, I have decided to build the Seiko Bullhead collections first. At the same time, I am also consolidating my Rolex/Tudor collections and also streamlining my non-core brands watches.

Seiko 6138-0040 bullhead brown international version fully restored.

Seiko 6138-0040 bullhead blue international version

Rolex 5075

Traded Rolex 1601 gold + Tudor  + Lanco Fon plus cash for this Rolex 18038 special dial 

Vintage Omega 38mm Seamaster made for North Korean Kim II Sung

Rolex Ref 3121 from 1942

Wish lists for 2023: To form a collection of the following: 

1. IWC Yacht club marble dial collection: Blue marble dial
2. Jaeger Lecoultre Futurematic Pothole collection:  18k solid gold 37mm
3. Jaeger Lecoultre Memovox 37mm Scale dial collection: Brown scale dial
4. Rolex 5030 18k gold
5. Rolex 1601 Lapis or Tiger eye
6. Rolex 18038 special dial Found

Traded Away

1. Seiko 6105-8110 Diver watch
2. Record Moonphase watch
3. Eberhard  & Co Moonphase watch
4. Spaceman watch
5. Lord Elgin 14 white gold with diamonds markers for a Rolex 6427
6. Seiko spare blue bullhead
7. Rolex 6427 traded for a Rolex Big bubbleback 5075
8. Tudor 7962 & Lanco Alarm for Rolex 18038
9. Bejing watch

Rolex Royal ref 6444 quartered dial from the year 1956

My Old post from 2014

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Rolex 6444 Royal quartered dial

The simple Rolex Royal and Speedking were watches that commands much respect during the 1980s-90s among many vintage watch collectors. With the increasing popularity of sports and larger watches, these smaller watches have to some extent been sidelines.

I have found a simple Rolex Oyster Royal Shock Resisting, reference 6444 with manual wind movement and 31mm case excluding crown with special dial. The watch has a serial nos of 206,XXX serial number circa 1956. at 31mm, it is consider small at today's standard but it will be a comfortable watch to wear. As these watches are not in huge demand, the prices have become very reasonable. I can already see a trend among collectors towards smaller and more refined watches vis-a-vis the larger and sporty watches.  

What make this watch unique is the special waffle designed dials in its original condition.

Rolex Royal Ref 3121 California dial from the year 1942

This is a Rolex Royal Ref 3132 from the year 1942. I first saw this watch with a California dial and Mecedes hands in December 2021 at HK$18,800. I did not buy the watch as I was focusing on some other watches. 

The Rolex Royal is a simple hand wind watch using similar movement for the Speed king, Viceroy etc. It has many interesting names. The essence of the ‘California Dial’ is extremely simplistic. A watch dial that consists of both half Roman and half Arabic numerals. Generally speaking, numbers 10 to 2 are Roman and 4 to 8 are Arabic, however the classic architype has changed and evolved over the years, varying from brand to brand to what is recognized today as the more youthful and edgy variant in one’s collection. One needs to take note that there are many reconditioned California dials in the market.

Yesterday, while I was browsing the internet, I came across the watch again with a nice replacement bracelet at a very attractive price. The Rolex Speed king & Royal are the first few nice entry-level watches for any watch collector. I remember those good old days in the 1980s when I first started collecting vintage watches as a hobby.

1942年古董型號3121手上弦怪字面全鋼手表 Royal ref.3121

The Rolex California dial has started during the 1940s where Rolex Bubbleback watches were also fitted with these dials as per the various advertising.

1942 World War II, Rolex U.S.A. Christmas Message

Welcome to RolexMagazine.com...Home of Jake's Rolex World Magazine..Optimized for iPad and iPhone: The Complete History Of the "California Dial"

Rolex Bubbleback with California dial

Semi California dial