Launched in 1931 as the world’s first reliable self-winding wristwatch, the initial version of the Rolex Oyster perpetual is affectionately known as ‘bubbleback’ 泡泡背today by collectors because of its bulbous case back. The case back on a “bubbleback” is significantly larger than case backs from other watches during the same era to allow the space for the winding rotor and self-winding module on the movement. Therefore, Rolex’s iconic “Bubbleback” gets its name from the protruding rounded case back designed to accommodate their patented self-winding movement and rotor.
The hooded version of the bubbleback was designed as a variation in the 1940s to ‘re-invent’ the case design but was unable to revive sales and soon ceased production. Some said the hooded bubbleback were produced for the US market. Amongst one of the most sought after variants of the legendary “Bubbleback” series, the hooded is the rarest examples of the model available today. I was very fortunate to add another Rolex hooded bubbleback watch over the weekend. I have to trade away a Vacheron Constantin Le Coultre mystery dial.
As mentioned earlier, the first Bubbleback models were introduced in the early 1930s and production continued for approximately 20 years. Similar to the standard “Bubbleback” watch, which came in many variations, the Rolex “hooded” examples had various finishes on the hoods from smooth ref 3065 to ribbed, engine-turned to vertical stripping and from steel to yellow gold and rose gold ref 3159 and to scallop hoods ref 3801. This design concept made a visual impact, and as the present model demonstrates, the watch grows in size and presence, rendering a striking appearance. I have happy to be able to collect 6 of these hooded bubbleback.
This Rolex reference 3599 hooded bubbleback is defined by its unusual case design featuring a flat cylindrical bezel of considerable width and “hoods” covering the open space normally found in between the lugs instead of a usual beveled edge bezel. It is a standard 32mm diameter. White dial with closed minute track, hours minutes and seconds at center. Plexiglas crystal, steel case back. Movement, case back and dial signed. 1942 This is unusual ROLEX Oyster Perpetual "OVETTE". Hooded Bubbleback Reference 3599 made for the European markets. Normally, the Rolex hooded Bubbleback were made for the US market. Early Rolex was very adventurous in their design and use of materials.
Normally, the ref 3599 is an all steel hooded bubbleback watch but this one has a steel case with hoods with gold striations at 6 and 12 o'clock. The two tone hoods remind us of the Rolex Prince Zebra two tone colours aka tiger straps, making it a rather unique watch.
Comparison between the Rolex Prince two tone zebra and the Rolex hooded
The watch has appeared in an overseas auction
Just sent the watch for a thorough service and cleaning.
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