Rolex ref 1803 Day Date 18k white gold no lume diamonds dial (from 1978)

As an ordinary working man, I do not think I will have much opportunity to wear diamonds jewelry. As such, one of the way I can get to wear it subtlety is to get a watch with some small diamonds on its dial. Earlier on, I have tried the Elgin and the Rolex Datjust with diamonds and I am comfortable wearing them. The Rolex white no-lume diamond Rolex Day-Date 1803 seems like another good option. It has 8 diamond hour markers, baguette diamonds at 6 & 9 o’clock and day & date display at 12 & 3 o’clock with no luminous dotes or luminous on hands.

Some history. In 1956, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date made its debut. Available only in 18 ct gold or platinum, it was the first wristwatch to display the date and day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial. With the President bracelet, originally created specially for it, the Day-Date continues to be the watch par excellence of influential people. 

The white gold watch looks like stainless steel and it will be subtle enough to wear it for work. Several years ago, I was looking at one white gold 1803 but didn’t manage to get it. Finally i a, able to find one using two Datejust. The watch is probably one of the last batch from 1978.

Will look for a nice lizard skin leather strap for it. This is my second Day Date with the first one being Yellow Gold found in Bangkok when I was working there. I shall need to find a Rose gold Day Date..

The watch is unique as the pie pan dial has no lume. Similarly, there are no luminous materials on the hour and minute hands as well giving it a very clean look..

https://omegaforums.net/threads/heres-what-happens-when-you-get-hell-bent-on-dds.1056/

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=695812

Rolex 1803-9

型號未一字代表成份如下 (機殼及錶帶) 
/0-全鋼 
/2-鉑金及鋼 
/3-18k黃金及鋼 
/4-白金及鋼 
/5-玫瑰金 
/6-鉑金 
/8-18k黃金 
/9-18k白金 

網上資料 (kwsiu)：歷史背景

1958年，繼 Ref. 6511 (c. 1956) 後，勞力士推出日誌型的第三代演進型號: 1803蠔式型錶款，裝載Cal. 1555機芯，具有星期及日期顯示（Day-Date），為當時的製錶界提供了一個新的思考方向，因為在當時即便其它高級品牌如百達翡麗、愛彼等，都尚未有這樣的錶款推出，也是同年代唯一可顯示全英文星期字顆的錶款，足見勞力士這款錶的重要性。

1803 維持了約 18 年的生產時間 (1960-1978)，往後被 Ref. 180xx 型號於 1978 年所取代。 盡管如此，現今的日誌型亦繼承了始於1803 所獨有的高貴典雅，而又具非凡霸氣的 “總統” 形象，一直延續至今天。

6510 - 1956 Basel version, cal 1055. 
6511 - first example, available one year, caliber 1055 
6611 - first chronometer 1055 type, micro-stella adjustment 
6613 - diamond bezel 6611 
6612 - smooth bezel 6611 (these are all 1957-1959 vintage) 
1803 - 18k yellow gold, caliber 1555 or 1556, 26 jewels, 1958 to 1976, fluted bezel, plastic crystal, non quickset. 
1802 – white gold, cal 1555 or 1556, 26 jewels, 1958-1979, polished bezel, plastic crystal, non-quickset 
1804 - diamond bezel type, caliber 1556 from 1965 on. 
1806 - textured shoulder / lugs and bezel
1807 - bark bezel, bark dial reference caliber 1555 or 1556 type 
1811 - linen dial reference caliber 1555 or 1556 type 
18026 - Platinum smooth bezel caliber 3055 quickset 1977-1988 sapphire crystal 
18028 - 18k YG smooth bezel caliber 3055 quickset 1977-1988 (sapphire) 
18038 – 18k classic quickset version caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18039 - WG Bezel version, caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18046 – Platinum, diamond bezel, caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18048 – 18k diamond bezel, caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18049 - WG diamond bezel, caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18078 – 18k bark finish quickset variant, caliber 3055 (sapphire) 
18079 – WG bark reference caliber 3055 (sapphire)

Rolex ref 16013 Buckley Dial (from 1985)

When it was launched in 1977, the ref. 16013 represented the next generation of the two-tone Datejusts. Transitioning away from the famed ref. 1601 which encompassed both mono and two-tone watches, the then-new 16013 introduced to the Datejust design family a solo two-tone reference number, a contemporary flat dial, a wide array of new and reimagined dial styles, and an upgraded mechanical movement that helped secure the watch a lasting place in Rolex's catalog until the late 1988. Some collector has nickname the ref. 16013 as the American Psycho Rolex, after it found a certain amount of fame on the wrist of the movie’s appalling Patrick Bateman. This was the In watch during the 1980s..

This is a Rolex 16013 Buckley dial from 1985. Rolex Buckley dials are some of the most desired there are, and for good reason – the painted black Roman numerals really lend a sort of enhanced dressy nature to the watch, while giving it the vibe of something like a classic field watch at the same time. What is interesting is that the Buckley dial must come with a black hour, minute and seconds hands. One way to tell the difference between the Rolex 1601 versus the 5 digits 16013 is the pie pan dial versus the flat dial. Moreover for the latter, the bracelet is also more solid.

Beside the 16013, there are other references. The ref. 16003 was identical except for its smooth bezel. The ref. 16008 and 16018 were the solid yellow gold pieces (smooth and fluted surrounds). Likewise with the white gold models, the 16009 and 16019. The stainless steel versions are slightly different. The ref. 16000 is all steel, with a smooth bezel. The ref. 16014 has a steel case with a fluted white gold surround, while the ref. 16030 is also exclusively in steel, but with an engine turned bezel. It comes with a quick set caliber 3035 until 1988 where it was replaced by 3135.

And as with previous generations, the 5 digits ref. 160XX references still had lug holes present, one of the very few things that can help identify the watch as vintage—in most other respects, there is very little aesthetic difference between them and the latest iteration.

Rolex 16013 & 16014

古董紅旗錶 China Red Flag watch Co 1970s

This is a new old stock 古董紅旗錶  Red Flag 1970s automatic watch with a nice Chinese letterings dial and its logo in RED. The watch was produced in the 1970s and it belonged to one of the last batches as it has an automatic movement and it was produced before it became the Peacock brand. 

It has a fatter backcase to accomodate the auto movement

Back case logo

This watch fits nicely together with the North Korean watches from the same era.

紅旗它始建於1957年，與上海、天津並稱為中國三大手錶生產製造基地。50 年代的前進牌手錶、60 年代的遼寧牌手錶、70 年代的紅旗牌手錶至80 年代享譽全國的孔雀表，每一個品牌都是一段曆史，都是一段回憶，它為中國手錶工業的發展做出了突出貢獻。　

“紅旗表”的面世離不開工匠們不服輸的精神。1970年，遼寧手錶廠的工程技術人員和工人組成了試製小組，並進行了新型手錶的設計和試製，這一舉動終獲成功，當年的投入批量生產產量高達15萬隻，使丹東手錶工業初具規模。1971年4月20日，輕工部通知：紅旗牌手錶（即“紅旗表”）技術鑒定合格。

　　到了1973年，遼寧手錶廠以“遼表革發（73）文件提出申請“紅旗牌”手錶（即“紅旗表”）啟用“H”商標（即HONGQI），使得每一隻“紅旗表”的後蓋都印有“紅旗（HONGQI）”的logo，隨後還增加了各種花色圖案，使之在外觀上更加增色。同年，遼寧手錶廠根據輕工部指令，轉產全國統一機芯手錶，當年年產40萬隻。

1970年，由遼寧手錶廠工程技術人員和工人自願組成“紅旗表”試製小組，進行新型手錶的設計和試製，當年投入批量生產產量達15萬隻，使丹東手錶工業初具規模。

1971年4月20日，輕工部通知：紅旗牌手錶（即“紅旗表”）技術鑒定合格。

1973年，遼寧手錶廠以“遼表革發（73）文件提出申請“紅旗牌”手錶（即“紅旗表”）啟用“H”商標（即HONGQI）,每一隻“紅旗表”的後蓋都印有“紅旗（HONGQI）”的logo，隨後還增加了各種花色圖案，使之在外觀上更加增色。同年，根據輕工部指令，遼寧手錶廠轉產全國統一機芯手錶，當年年產40萬隻。

1978年2月8日，“紅旗表”大放異彩。新型“紅旗表”在丹東市內輕工產品商店展銷，十天內銷出704只，比展前十天銷量增加108.3%。1978年8月19日出版的《丹東日報》這樣評述：“‘紅旗牌’手錶猛追全國先進水平，手錶公司採取切實措施把產品質量放在第一位。”這次的展銷直接把“紅旗表”展現在全國人民面前，很多愛表人士慕名而來，只為目睹它的風采，即使是現在“紅旗表”也是眾多手錶收藏家們最愛的紅色手錶之一。

　　“紅旗表”象徵著中國手錶行業的發展，包含著光榮與希望，是一種強烈的民族責任，一種曆史使命感和一份愛國意誌，這抹“紅色之美”成為了一代人珍貴的回憶。

　　可惜的是在80年代特殊的背景下，遼寧手錶廠也受到影響，導致產品滯壓嚴重。經多方研討並在省、市主管部門支持下，遼寧手錶廠決定將預售的“紅旗表”全部收回，兌換新表，終獲成功，挽回信譽。公司將這一重大曆史轉折鄭重銘定為“難忘的一九七八年”以激勵永進。之後進入到90年代，遼寧手錶廠在外國產品陸續進入中國市場的衝擊下，也逐步陷入了經營低穀時期。

　　“紅旗表”曾是遼寧的驕傲，遼寧手錶廠雖沒落卻一直秉持初心，致力創造出具有民族特色的品牌。為了重振手錶產業，2008年7月，遼寧市政府同意由遼寧天賜投資（發展）集團有限公司收購重組了遼寧手錶廠，成立了遼寧孔雀表業有限公司，它先後完成了從遼寧手錶廠轉製、投資建設手錶工業園、恢復生產、技術革新、設備升級等一些列經營和生產方面的調整。並自主設計研發了薄型自動機械表機芯、運動碼表機芯、陀飛輪手錶機芯、多功能機芯、女表機芯等7大系列、326個花色品種，機械表機芯的設計、製造水平行業領先。2018年，還被中國鍾表協會評為中國陀飛輪手錶(丹東)製造基地。至此，遼寧手錶工業重歸行業巔峰。

　　“紅旗表”不僅僅是一種情懷的象徵，更是歲月的痕跡，它承載著人民生活的變化與希望，光榮與責任，時至今日也是收藏者們偏愛的具備紅色文化的手錶。

Rolex Hooded Bubbleback (1943)

This is a Rolex Hooded bubbleback ref 3065 with the third generations movement from 1943.  The hooded Bubbleback is one of the most collectible Rolex bubbleback as its production is much fewer than the normal bubble back and it was made for the US market. Owing to the extra hoods, these have given the bubbleback more space and the hoods have visually increased the legth and size making it attractive even for today's standard. The dial has patina to a nice age too. I have managed to trade one of my Rolex 6105 for a hooded Bubbleback with Cheong gor over the weekend in keeping in line with my One Out One In rule...

每位劳力士玩家或者爱好者，都对运动劳趋之若鹜，相信每只能说的出名堂经典已被熟知。谁知还有一个传奇，他比运动劳更早，在历史上他有着更为丰富的产品线——Bubbleback；这是劳力士创始人Hans Wilsdorf有生之年给大家留下的彩蛋，等待着劳迷们去寻找。

劳力士泡泡背的系列腕表，作为早期劳力士的经典代表。他有很多不同称号，在中国香港他被称作棺材仔，中国台湾叫泡泡背或小馒头，欧美日叫他为BubbleBack，意大利叫他为OVETTO(细小的蛋）

为什么要叫泡泡背，这得从他的机芯说起，劳力士在三十年代发明的全自动上链机芯。此机芯因封闭设计，多层厚实夹板导致机芯整体偏厚（6.8MM比现在的3135还厚0.8MM），如果按正常的表壳设计是装不下这枚机芯，所以劳力士专门设计了圆拱型后盖，其形状就如泡泡一样，这也是泡泡背的由来。

在尺寸方面，一般分四种尺寸，大泡泡背（36MM），中泡泡背（34MM），小泡泡背（30-32MM），泡泡横背（30-32MM，表耳间带耳盖），还有一些女泡泡背

耳蓋泡泡背 (Hooded Bubbleback)

觉得Hooded是收藏泡泡背至高境界! 无论系smooth丶ribbed丶flexible丶rigid或scalloped hooded 都太少量发行丶 太"漂亮"的设计!部份型号的全钢Hooded更是价值高於全金或金钢,主要是发行量实在太少-属於超罕有!

 

Lord Elgin 14k white gold Caliber 730 watch

I fell in love with this vintage 1940-50s Lord Elgin 14k white gold watch with diamonds markers and subsidiary seconds last week during my usual watch hunting. 

Elgin started in 1864 and was founded by a group of men that included former Chicago mayor Benjamin W. Raymond. For nearly 100 years thereafter, Elgin had the distinction of operating the world’s largest watchmaking manufacturing site. The company became an American icon and won numerous awards for its timepieces and movements. 1967 marked the last year that the original Elgin Watch Company produced any watches. 

My Lord Elgin watch uses a Caliber 730 23 jewels movement and it has a nice engine turned bezel and the size of the watch is comfortable to wear. I have traded some non core watches plus cash for this watch this evening as part of my consolidation. Hope you like the design.

A 14k watch US$100 in 1950 is equivalent in purchasing power to about US$$1,153.31 today, an increase of $1,053.31 over 72 years. The average annual income was about US$240 meaning that a watch costing $100 will take about 40% of the monthly pay.

Rolex ref 1601 (from 1973) 18K Rose Gold Wide Boy

I really love vintage red gold watches. This afternoon, I have managed to trade my yellow gold Datejust Wide Boy dial  for a rose gold Datejust with Wide Boy Dial in order to finetune my collection and at the same time keep the number of watches constant. This red/Rose gold watch has a nice Wide Boy dial with markers and Rolex crown in red gold too. As previously mentioned, Rose gold watches were not popular during the era making it rarer than the popular yellow or white. My hunt for the rose continues...

I have to trade away a yellow gold Datejust with Wide Boy dial for this rose gold

Vintage Omega watch made for North Korea Kim II Sung 金日成 Part 1

This was my earlier blog one from the year 2016. There are some so called collectors that deny the existence of this watch.

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Vintage Omega Geneve automatic

As a history student, I am always fascinated with vintage watch with history. I am very lucky to be able to know a great collector of items from DPRK, Democratic People Republic of Korea, I.e. North Korea.

From the collector, I have managed to find a real and official Kim Il Sung Omega watch from DPRK. My search for this watch has been on going for a while and finally, my wishes come true. The watch had been proofed real Omega item from Omega Service Centre (Hong Kong). This OMEGA wristwatch is a Swiss Made timepiece from the 70s! it was given to government officials and diplomats of North Korea. As per the news below, for Kim IL Sung's 60th birthday in 1972, he has presented watches to his key VIPs and officials.

Vintage Automatic Men's Wristwatch OMEGA Geneve KIM IL SUNG SignatureMovement type : 23 Jewels Swiss High Grade 1022 made by OMEGA

CASE diameter : 35mm without the crown ; 

18mm from lug to lug Original glass and crown with Omega logo Date & Day function in Korean

The watch is engraved in Korean with Kim Il-Sung's signature - The first North Korean dictator of the 

Kim Dynasty These limited-edition watches were ordered to Omega from Pyoung-Yang specially for 

60's birthday anniversary of Kim Il-Sung in 1972. It's the one of the few that exists, custom ordered for 

special occasions like head of state visits and presented to high-ranking foreign officials (Head of 

state and delegacy, senior diplomatic representative and similar). Kim Il Sung was the first leader in the 

Kim Dynasty of North Korea and ruled from its establishment 1948 till his death in 1994. He was declared 

as "eternal President" also known as the "Great Leader" or controversially as a communist dictator.  

The is another watch whose origin is from Yugoslavia at that time, as North Korea and Yugoslavia 

had close diplomatic relations nurtured by the two leaders Josip Broz Tito and Kim Il-Sung. This watch is 

perhaps one of the most controversial watch for Omega.

Other examples: 

Omega Constellation 18ct Gold North Korea Dictator Signatur | Vintage Portfolio (vintage-portfolio.com)