The Rolex "Bubbleback" ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds is a highly collectible and historically significant watch. It's often called the watch that saved Rolex and established the foundation for the modern Oyster Perpetual line.
The Bubbleback, produced from the 1930s to the 1950s, was Rolex's first serially produced automatic (or "Perpetual") wristwatch. Its nickname comes from the distinctive curved case back that bulged out to accommodate the oversized rotor of the early automatic movement. This "bubble" was necessary to give the rotor enough space to swing freely.
The Ref. 3064 is one of the earlier and more classic Bubbleback models.
Key Features of the Rolex Ref. 3064 (with Subsidiary Seconds)
When you specify "subsidiary seconds," is a key differentiator from the more common center-seconds Bubblebacks.
1. The Case & "Hooded" Lugs:
· "Hooded" Lugs: This is a defining feature. The lugs are not separate entities welded to the case but are instead carved from the same block of steel or gold as the mid-case. They curve sharply downward, "hugging" or "hooding" the wrist, which gives the watch a very distinctive, integrated, and robust look. This design provides a very secure fit on the wrist.
· Material: Typically found in stainless steel, yellow gold, or pink gold (Rolex called it "pink" at the time).
· Size: Small by modern standards, usually around 31-32mm in diameter. This was a standard men's size in the 1940s.
· Oyster Case: As with all Oysters, it features the patented screw-down crown and case back, making it highly water-resistant for its time.
2. The Dial (A Critical Element):
· Subsidiary Seconds: Instead of a central seconds hand, the seconds hand is on a small sub-dial at 6 o'clock. This layout is often considered more elegant and traditional, and it is less common than the center-seconds version on Bubblebacks, making it more desirable to collectors.
· Dial Designs: You will find several variations:
· Two-Tone ("Bicolor"): The most iconic look for this model. The outer track (with the minute markers) is a silvery or champagne color, while the inner sector is a darker, contrasting color like black or deep brown.
· Solid Color: Silver, black, or champagne.
· Indices: Often featured applied gold or steel Arabic numerals (3, 6, 9, 12) with baton or dagger markers for the other hours. Some had all Arabic numerals or all batons.
· Patina: It is absolutely expected and desirable for these dials to have developed a patina. This can include a creamy tone (tropicalization), light cracking ("spider-webbing"), and fading. A pristine, original dial is extremely rare.
3. The Movement:
· The Ref. 3064 was powered by the Rolex Caliber 59. This was a robust, 19-jewel automatic movement based on a A. Schild ebauche.
· The "Bubbleback" case back was specifically designed for this movement and its successors (like the Cal. 9 3/4"' and Cal. 10 1/2"').
4. Crystal:
· Originally fitted with a Plexiglass (acrylic) crystal that has a distinct dome, contributing to the vintage charm.
Why is it Collectible?
· Historical Significance: It's the progenitor of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line.
· Distinctive Design: The "bubble" case back and "hooded" lugs are unique and instantly recognizable.
· Charm and Patina: Its small size and vintage character offer a classic aesthetic that modern watches often lack.
· Relative Rarity: The subsidiary seconds version is less common than the center-seconds models.
What to Look For When Buying One
If you are considering purchasing a Ref. 3064, be very careful:
1. Authenticity: The market has many frankens and redials. Buy from a reputable dealer.
2. Condition: Look for a case that has not been over-polished. Sharp, defined "hooded" lugs are a sign of a well-preserved case. Over-polishing flattens the lugs and reduces the value.
3. Originality: The most important factor for value. An original, untouched dial with even patina is far more valuable than a refinished "like-new" dial. The hands should also be original and match the patina of the dial.
4. Function: The movement should be serviced and running well. Parts for these old movements can be difficult to source.
Summary
The Rolex Bubbleback Ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds and hooded lugs is a cornerstone of vintage Rolex collecting. It represents a perfect blend of groundbreaking technology (the automatic Oyster case) and a charming, distinct design that is unmistakably from the 1940s. It's a watch with immense character and a direct link to the history that made Rolex the giant it is today. Throughout the years of collecting, I have managed to find 5 hooded watches of various dials and the hooded 3064 with subsidiary seconds will fit nicely to my small collections of hooded bubbleback
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