Perhaps it's because my birth chart favors metal and water elements, but I've always had a deep-seated affinity for watches, especially dive watches—they're as silent as the deep sea, yet they encapsulate the flow of time. Among them, the Titus Calypsomatic ref. 7085, a vintage dive watch, particularly captivates me.
It belongs to the third generation of the Calypsomatic series. This series has five generations: 5913 is the first and second generation, 7085 is the third, 7840 is the fourth, and 7985 is the fifth. This watch was produced by the Swiss brand Titus (also known as Solvil & Titus) in the early to mid-1960s. Compared to its predecessors like the 5913, its upgrades are significant: the dial features a glossy lacquer finish and a small logo printed in reverse gold—gold foil beneath the lacquer, a style similar to Rolex; the luminous material has been changed from radium to tritium, and "T Swiss Made T" is printed at the 6 o'clock position.
The 37–38 mm case diameter (excluding the crown) is particularly well-suited to Asian wrists, reflecting contemporary collectors' preference for moderate sizes. The lugs are approximately 42–48 mm apart and 20 mm wide; the screw-down case back is engraved with the serial number "7085," retaining an unpolished, rustic texture. For me, watches under 40 mm are the most comfortable to wear, and reading the time feels effortless.
The dial's craftsmanship is particularly special, colloquially known in Hong Kong as a "lacquered dial." The gold plating or lacquer finish, over time, oxidizes, potentially developing a unique "chocolate" color, reminiscent of tropical pasta. The hands are lollipop-shaped (if Mercedes hands are present, it's a later replacement), paired with a large date window and a cyclops lens to magnify the numerals. Because it's a purely diving tool watch, those with intact dials are now rare, most bearing the marks of time.
The unidirectional rotating bezel can be used for clockwise or counter-clockwise movements, with a triangle marker replacing the previous dot at the 12 o'clock position. The most eye-catching feature is undoubtedly the iconic oversized "bullet" crown (approximately 7.4 mm in diameter), a screw-down design with no lettering, only a three-dimensional raised emblem—the largest crown in the entire Calypsomatic series, hence its nickname "The Big Crown." Its appearance is extremely similar to the Rolex Submariner 5508 or 5510, often referred to as a "people's Rolex." However, in my eyes, it is far from a mere substitute; rather, it is an independent piece combining high value with classic diving spirit, housing the ETA 2472 automatic movement with 21 jewels, and the rotor engraved with "Solvil et Titus."
In the later stages of the 7085 model series, the brand introduced a new "small logo" dial. This dial still has a glossy lacquer finish, but the gold foil printing process is unique: the gold background is located beneath the lacquer, rather than printed on top, a technique similar to that used by Rolex. A closer look reveals a significantly reduced size of the logo and "Titus" lettering, and the "Calypsomatic, 21 Jewels" inscription is positioned closer to the center of the dial. This type of dial marks the complete transition from radium to tritium luminescence.
Two pieces in my collection perfectly exemplify this transition: one is an early "Big Logo" dial with blue and red accents and white markers; the other is a later "Small Logo" dial with an all-black dial. This transitional period, mixed with leftover parts from previous generations, becomes a fascinating historical footnote.
Despite its niche status, this watch has a loyal following among Western collectors. Its price has quietly risen in recent years, with many collectors viewing it as a potential "blue-chip" item and continuously seeking pieces in good condition. Original bracelets commonly feature a rice-grain strap (with the brand's logo clasp) or a later Oyster bracelet; leather straps are also frequently seen on the market. Those in good condition typically fetch between US $3,000 and $4,000.
It inherits the aesthetic essence of early Rolex Submariners without crown guards, yet its price is much more affordable. As a tool watch from the 1960s, its wear and tear is inevitable, and it is precisely these marks of time that give it a unique collectible charm.
To be honest, I have a love-hate relationship with this Titus Calypsomatic—this is my fifth one. The previous times, I reluctantly parted with it because friends jokingly advised me, "You already have a Rolex 5508, why keep this one?" However, the simple rhythm of the 7085 movement, especially that large and striking bullet crown, always kept me captivated. So, without realizing it, I rediscovered it, like revisiting a silent and profound old time.
No comments:
Post a Comment