Happy Holidays

Rolex 1601 datejust ghost dial watch

In 1945 Rolex created the flagship Datejust to mark the company’s 40th anniversary. This model was the world’s first self-winding wristwatch with a date indication. With the Datejust, Rolex also introduced the iconic 5-piece Jubilee bracelet, first in solid gold and later in bicolor and stainless steel. On the 10th anniversary of the Datejust in 1955, the magnifying ‘cyclops lens’ was introduced. 

The Rolex Datejust has remained a timeless classic, instantly recognizable as an item of advanced quality and functional design. The Datejust’s exemplary style makes it an extremely versatile choice, worn just as easily with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt.The Datejust 1600,1601,1603 series were produced between the 1960s and the 1970s with the unique Pie Pan dial and Non quick set movement.  

Some collectors have asked me why do I collect the simple Rolex Datejust? My answer to them is simple. Firstly, the prices of Rolex sports models using the similar movement 1650,1670 etc are getting ridiculously high. Secondly, the Datejust at 36mm is a comfortable watch to wear (for both male and female) and the Datejust has many dials variations to form a nice collection and the prices are still affordable. As a watch collector, one of the key learning is to be able to start collecting watches before they get popular and expensive.

This is another Rolex 1601 in perfect condition and a special grey ghost dial where at certain angles, the white Rolex wordings would disappear. As usual, I will need to let go one watch (Elgin 24 hours pilot watch) for this beauty.

I have always loved the Rolex Datejust as it comes in a variety of colour dials and markers.

Rolex Zephyr Reference 1008 White Dial dial

This may look like a simple normal time-only Rolex Oyster Perpetual, but it’s not. It’s a Rolex Zephyr, which is one of the more rare and under rated vintage Rolex models around. I have found a Rolex Zephyr Reference 1008 in black dial in January 2020 and I have to trade an IWC blue dial plus cash top up for it.The watch comes in a leather belt and I have managed to find a metal bracelet for it afterward.

Last weekend, I went to Mr. Wong shop and saw a very nice condition Rolex Zephyr Reference 1008 in White dial. There is an added attraction of having the original two tone bracelet.  As I have promised myself to control the size of my watch collection, I have decided to have to trade away some watches before I can get a new one. I

During lunch time, I have managed to meet Mr. Wong at Causeway Bay MTR during lunch time and traded a Rolex Royal plus a Girald Perragaux HF plus top up cash for this beauty. I am happy with it as I have managed to follow my one in one out (this time two out!) policy. Moreover, I have received a refund for a vintage pens owing to problem in shipping. With the spare cash, I have decided to invest in a vintage watch instead.

The Rolex 1008 Zephyr is one of the most under rated vintage Rolex as it has a unique Bezel and dial plus using the work horse 1560 movement that was used in the Rolex Submariner and Explorer. Rolex Zephyr offers a great blend of sport and luxury.

The Rolex Zephyr is a particular style of vintage Oyster Perpetual watch that sports a distinct dial design and bezel style. The Zephyr dial features a cross-hair motif that divides the dial into four different sections. Since the Oyster Perpetual is a time-only Rolex model, void of any date windows, the dial is beautifully symmetrical and appealing simple. Another characteristic of the Zephyr dial are the small tritium lume plots that act as hour markers, accompanied by the “T SWISS T” label just above 6 o’clock. Other typical markings on a Rolex Zephyr dial include the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” designation, in addition to the “Oyster Perpetual” label underneath the Rolex name and gold crown logo.

Aside from the instantly recognizable dial, another important detail of a Rolex Zephyr is an engined-turned fluted bezel accented with facets.There are three generations of Rolex Zephyr.

Rolex began producing the Oyster Perpetual Zephyr in the mid-1950s, beginning with the ref. 6582, powered by the Caliber 1030 self-winding movement. Typical of the era, the dial included dauphine-style center hands.

This was followed up with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Zephyr ref. 1008 in the late 1950s. This version was powered by the upgraded Caliber 1560 automatic movement and includes a smaller winding crown.

Finally, in the late 1960s/early 1970s, Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual Zephyr ref. 1038.  Rolex eventually discontinued producing the Zephyr in the 1980s.

It’s also worth noting that Rolex did also produce an Oyster Perpetual Date 1512 with a Zephyr style dial around the same time.

GIRARD PERREGAUX VINTAGE HF HIGH FREQUENCY AUTOMATIC, CHRONOMETER, DATE - STAINLESS STEEL

Girard-Perregaux

One of the many top Swiss watch companies to lose its way a little during the ‘Quartz Crisis’, Girard-Perregaux is now back in its stride once more and beginning to command the respect it rightfully deserves. Girard-Perregaux is one of the true greats of the Swiss watch industry and one which long held one of the most glamorous images in high-end watchmaking. The company has developed and produced, in-house, some of the most technically advanced watches ever made. Notably Tourbillons, Minute Repeaters and other refined Grande Complication models.

In the novel “From Russia With Love”, and no less than on the first page, author Ian Fleming wrote “a gold Girard-Perregaux on a brown crocodile strap is one of the typical membership badges of the rich man’s club”.

The company recently celebrated its 225th anniversary, which makes it one of the oldest remaining watch companies still engaged in continuous production. Girard-Perregaux is credited with many firsts and claims to fame, having registered over 100 patents and won numerous exhibition and observatory prizes and medals. Most notably, a gold medal presented to Constant Girard for a Tourbillon at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867, and again in 1889, for the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Constant Girard’s masterpiece and the fruit of many years labour, which received the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris.

As early as 1840, the founder, Constant Girard, began to develop the innovative concept of a gentleman’s wristwatch, and later in 1879, his wristwatches were ordered personally by Emperor Wilhelm I, for officers in the German Imperial Navy. Two thousand were made, making this the first large-scale commercial production of wristwatches in history.

In recognition of its ongoing quest for precision, in 1905 Girard-Perregaux was from this point forward, elected a permanent member of the jury at the largest international watch fairs.

The golden age for Girard-Perregaux really began in the 1920s, and continuing through to the 1970s, seeing the company grow rapidly in both its expertise and strength in its markets across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. In the 1940s, the company produced a highly popular range of sports and military watches using the strapline “For Active Service”. These waterproof, shockproof, antimagnetic, and luminous watches carried names such as the Mermaid, Sea Hawk, Amphibian and the ‘M.D. Waterproof’. The Sea Hawk remained popular up to the end of the 1960s when it was withdrawn. However, this model has recently been revived as a highly competent, professional divers watch.

In 1956 Girard-Perregaux introduced its first automatic watch, the Calibre 21, 39 Jewels ‘Gyromatic’ which used a highly advanced Gyrotrone automatic reverser gear winding system. This caused a sensation across the watch industry due to its efficiency and brilliance. 

The Gyromatic was continually developed until in 1966, the Girard-Perregaux Chronometer HF Gyromatic was launched. This was the first ever high-frequency movement with a balance vibrating at 36,000 times an hour, or 10 beats per second. In 1966 this unrivalled movement was awarded the Centenary Prize by the Neuchatel Observatory and brought what is now recognised as true precision to watchmaking for the first time. A year later in 1967, 70% of all the Chronometer certificates issued by the Swiss Neuchatel Observatory went to Girard-Perregaux’ Chronometer HF models. These were some of the most accurate mechanical wristwatches of all time.

Why this watch is important…

This Chronometer HF Gyromatic is simply the culmination of 175 years of continuous development by Girard-Perregaux, for which it was awarded the highest prize in watchmaking. Depending on which of the top Swiss manufacturers one compares with, this watch was a good 5 to 10 years ahead of its competition. Even today, after some huge recent developments in watchmaking in recent years, this movement remains very advanced and in the very rarified atmosphere of highly accurate 36,000 bph, 10 beat movements. This watch was developed to compete and hold off quartz watches which even Girard-Perregaux had under advanced development, and which they first launched in 1970 with its Elcro calibre. 

The Dial

The dial has applied ‘Baton’ hour indices and the original restored ‘Index’ hands with also an applied ‘GP’ brand along with the signature and ‘Chronometer HF’ denoting, of course, its Chronometer High-Frequency movement.

The style of the dial is very typical of its time and similar to the larger Omega Seamaster and some Constellations, made during the same period, but to our eyes, and perhaps due to its exclusivity, this dial looks better than both of these. Due to the high frequency movement, the centre seconds hand traverses the dial very smoothly with almost no perceptible ticks. 

The Movement

Girard-Perregaux is famous within the Swiss watch industry for the technical innovations and craftsmanship expressed in all of its movements. The Chromometer HF Gyromatic, of course, uses the groundbreaking, highly efficient automatic self-winding system which it had introduced 10 years earlier, but the Quartz watch was on the horizon and indeed, under an advanced stage of development by Girard-Perregaux and others. So the main aim of this model was superlative accuracy at a midrange (at least for the steel version) price, which was achieved.

Girard-Perregaux, along with Zenith, were pioneers in the area ‘Fast Beat’ movements. Generally speaking, all else being equal, a faster beating movement is more accurate than a slower beating one. However, at 36,000 beats per hour or 10 beats per second, there were several associated challenges to be overcome, such as increased power consumption, requiring a larger mainspring and more efficient self-winding. Another major challenge was lubrication since oils can quickly become dry, or even be thrown off by faster-moving parts. GP overcame this by using special lubrication and greasing, as well as permanently dry lubrication on the faster moving parts.

The Girard-Perregaux Calibre 42, 39 Jewel Gyromatic Chronometer HF with its fantastic quality high beat movement, features hack seconds, micrometric fine regulator screw, ISOVAL self-compensating hairspring and monometallic balance. It is possible to synchronize a Chronometer HF if the mainspring is not at full tension by holding the sweep seconds hand still at 12 with the crown and releasing it when ready as a form of hacking seconds. The movement also features a quickset date, which is quite a nice feature. By turning the hands to about 8:40 and advancing to 12:00 repeatedly, quickset adjustments can be made.

Not many people wear mechanical watches “for their accuracy” and the fact that these watches were the ultimate in terms of accuracy before the “quartz crisis” ensures their place in horological history. The rarity factor also appeals. In steel, these were at around US $170, but in 18ct gold, these watches cost around US $500 in 1968.  For comparison, a gold 1967 Heuer Carrera 2447S cost around $200 and a gold 1967 1675 Rolex GMT-Master cost around $400.

The Case

The steel two-piece case is noticeably strong. It was built with equal care and quality and craftsmanship, as the movement. In other words, it is of the finest quality with a heavy screw-back and an extra inner movement cover made of steel for antimagnetic protection.

Surprisingly, the case measures 34mm in diameter, since it looks larger, perhaps due to its 41mm overall length, including the lugs. The crown is original and GP signed.

In summary: 

• "High Frequency" 36,000 beats per hour balance system, twice the speed of many traditional wristwatches (most vintage watches beat 18,000 times per hour) and made to accommodate changes in temperature. For decades 36,000 beats per hour was as fast as any production watch ticked.
• Officially certified as a chronometer by the C.O.S.C
• Very effective Gyromatic system requires smaller wrist movement to keep the watch fully powered. This also helps the watch spend more time running at its peak power level which can give more accurate timekeeping
• Jeweled with 39 rubies to reduce friction between the moving parts

OMEGA星座天文台(曲耳八卦面)

早在五十年代至70年代时欧米茄(OMEGA)推出过一款名为曲耳八卦日内瓦认证的手表，此款手表以其独特的造型和精致耐用的机芯极受古董钟表收藏家的钟爱。

这款瑞士原产古董曲耳八卦面星座手表给人一种庄重厚实的感觉。该款星座曲耳八卦手表采用 564天文台认证机芯，5方位调校，鹅颈式微调，走时正常稳定，可谓是可遇不可求，称得上是欧米茄(OMEGA)星座系列老款古董级别手表里面最受欢迎款式之一。

要看原裝或翻寫真是好講經驗和真僞辨別守則，如字體、MOY測試、dial 歲月痕跡、時分marker等