Girard-Perregaux
One of the many top Swiss watch companies to lose its way a little during the ‘Quartz Crisis’, Girard-Perregaux is now back in its stride once more and beginning to command the respect it rightfully deserves. Girard-Perregaux is one of the true greats of the Swiss watch industry and one which long held one of the most glamorous images in high-end watchmaking. The company has developed and produced, in-house, some of the most technically advanced watches ever made. Notably Tourbillons, Minute Repeaters and other refined Grande Complication models.
In the novel “From Russia With Love”, and no less than on the first page, author Ian Fleming wrote “a gold Girard-Perregaux on a brown crocodile strap is one of the typical membership badges of the rich man’s club”.
The company recently celebrated its 225th anniversary, which makes it one of the oldest remaining watch companies still engaged in continuous production. Girard-Perregaux is credited with many firsts and claims to fame, having registered over 100 patents and won numerous exhibition and observatory prizes and medals. Most notably, a gold medal presented to Constant Girard for a Tourbillon at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867, and again in 1889, for the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Constant Girard’s masterpiece and the fruit of many years labour, which received the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris.
As early as 1840, the founder, Constant Girard, began to develop the innovative concept of a gentleman’s wristwatch, and later in 1879, his wristwatches were ordered personally by Emperor Wilhelm I, for officers in the German Imperial Navy. Two thousand were made, making this the first large-scale commercial production of wristwatches in history.
In recognition of its ongoing quest for precision, in 1905 Girard-Perregaux was from this point forward, elected a permanent member of the jury at the largest international watch fairs.
The golden age for Girard-Perregaux really began in the 1920s, and continuing through to the 1970s, seeing the company grow rapidly in both its expertise and strength in its markets across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. In the 1940s, the company produced a highly popular range of sports and military watches using the strapline “For Active Service”. These waterproof, shockproof, antimagnetic, and luminous watches carried names such as the Mermaid, Sea Hawk, Amphibian and the ‘M.D. Waterproof’. The Sea Hawk remained popular up to the end of the 1960s when it was withdrawn. However, this model has recently been revived as a highly competent, professional divers watch.
In 1956 Girard-Perregaux introduced its first automatic watch, the Calibre 21, 39 Jewels ‘Gyromatic’ which used a highly advanced Gyrotrone automatic reverser gear winding system. This caused a sensation across the watch industry due to its efficiency and brilliance.
The Gyromatic was continually developed until in 1966, the Girard-Perregaux Chronometer HF Gyromatic was launched. This was the first ever high-frequency movement with a balance vibrating at 36,000 times an hour, or 10 beats per second. In 1966 this unrivalled movement was awarded the Centenary Prize by the Neuchatel Observatory and brought what is now recognised as true precision to watchmaking for the first time. A year later in 1967, 70% of all the Chronometer certificates issued by the Swiss Neuchatel Observatory went to Girard-Perregaux’ Chronometer HF models. These were some of the most accurate mechanical wristwatches of all time.
Why this watch is important…
This Chronometer HF Gyromatic is simply the culmination of 175 years of continuous development by Girard-Perregaux, for which it was awarded the highest prize in watchmaking. Depending on which of the top Swiss manufacturers one compares with, this watch was a good 5 to 10 years ahead of its competition. Even today, after some huge recent developments in watchmaking in recent years, this movement remains very advanced and in the very rarified atmosphere of highly accurate 36,000 bph, 10 beat movements. This watch was developed to compete and hold off quartz watches which even Girard-Perregaux had under advanced development, and which they first launched in 1970 with its Elcro calibre.
The Dial
The dial has applied ‘Baton’ hour indices and the original restored ‘Index’ hands with also an applied ‘GP’ brand along with the signature and ‘Chronometer HF’ denoting, of course, its Chronometer High-Frequency movement.
The style of the dial is very typical of its time and similar to the larger Omega Seamaster and some Constellations, made during the same period, but to our eyes, and perhaps due to its exclusivity, this dial looks better than both of these. Due to the high frequency movement, the centre seconds hand traverses the dial very smoothly with almost no perceptible ticks.
The Movement
Girard-Perregaux is famous within the Swiss watch industry for the technical innovations and craftsmanship expressed in all of its movements. The Chromometer HF Gyromatic, of course, uses the groundbreaking, highly efficient automatic self-winding system which it had introduced 10 years earlier, but the Quartz watch was on the horizon and indeed, under an advanced stage of development by Girard-Perregaux and others. So the main aim of this model was superlative accuracy at a midrange (at least for the steel version) price, which was achieved.
Girard-Perregaux, along with Zenith, were pioneers in the area ‘Fast Beat’ movements. Generally speaking, all else being equal, a faster beating movement is more accurate than a slower beating one. However, at 36,000 beats per hour or 10 beats per second, there were several associated challenges to be overcome, such as increased power consumption, requiring a larger mainspring and more efficient self-winding. Another major challenge was lubrication since oils can quickly become dry, or even be thrown off by faster-moving parts. GP overcame this by using special lubrication and greasing, as well as permanently dry lubrication on the faster moving parts.
The Girard-Perregaux Calibre 42, 39 Jewel Gyromatic Chronometer HF with its fantastic quality high beat movement, features hack seconds, micrometric fine regulator screw, ISOVAL self-compensating hairspring and monometallic balance. It is possible to synchronize a Chronometer HF if the mainspring is not at full tension by holding the sweep seconds hand still at 12 with the crown and releasing it when ready as a form of hacking seconds. The movement also features a quickset date, which is quite a nice feature. By turning the hands to about 8:40 and advancing to 12:00 repeatedly, quickset adjustments can be made.
Not many people wear mechanical watches “for their accuracy” and the fact that these watches were the ultimate in terms of accuracy before the “quartz crisis” ensures their place in horological history. The rarity factor also appeals. In steel, these were at around US $170, but in 18ct gold, these watches cost around US $500 in 1968. For comparison, a gold 1967 Heuer Carrera 2447S cost around $200 and a gold 1967 1675 Rolex GMT-Master cost around $400.
The Case
The steel two-piece case is noticeably strong. It was built with equal care and quality and craftsmanship, as the movement. In other words, it is of the finest quality with a heavy screw-back and an extra inner movement cover made of steel for antimagnetic protection.
Surprisingly, the case measures 34mm in diameter, since it looks larger, perhaps due to its 41mm overall length, including the lugs. The crown is original and GP signed.
In summary:
- "High Frequency" 36,000 beats per hour balance system, twice the speed of many traditional wristwatches (most vintage watches beat 18,000 times per hour) and made to accommodate changes in temperature. For decades 36,000 beats per hour was as fast as any production watch ticked.
- Officially certified as a chronometer by the C.O.S.C
- Very effective Gyromatic system requires smaller wrist movement to keep the watch fully powered. This also helps the watch spend more time running at its peak power level which can give more accurate timekeeping
- Jeweled with 39 rubies to reduce friction between the moving parts
No comments:
Post a Comment