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Friday, 17 October 2025
Seiko 5625-7070 Gold cap Hi Beat
Sunday, 5 October 2025
Porsche design Indicator 6910.10.40.1149
First turns of the wheel
At the end of 2000, Ernst F. SEYR, president and managing director of Eterna SA (owned by Porsche since 1995) suggested the idea of a super chronograph by Porsche Design/Eterna. As an amateur pilot fascinated by mechanics, the new head of the group knew how hard it can be to use a classic chronograph in real-life, and how stress, poor light or vibration can make them almost impossible to read.
The next step from there was to envisage the development of a real instrument that could be used as a chronometer at a glance without having to decipher minute auxiliary dials.
That’s where the INDICATOR came in. At the end of 2000, Porsche Design gave engineers the go-ahead for development, and entrusted a feasibility study of the INDICATOR project to the Master watchmaker Paul Gerber. A year later, a dozen engineers, technicians and watchmakers from Eterna undertook the development of the revolutionary chronograph’s first prototypes and limited series production. After three years of relentless effort, the first INDICATOR saw the light of day.
Perfectly legible in any circumstances
The finely studied detail of the dial and hands on the INDICATOR is designed for perfect legibility whatever the circumstances.
The semi-skeletal hands, coated in superluminova, obscure the main indicators as little as possible to give a precise reading, even in poor viewing conditions. The figures and hours are also coated in superluminova.
Design directly inspired by the Porsche Carrera GT
The slightly domed 42mm sapphire crystal, in built motion work, clear and simple dial structure, easy-to-handle elongated push buttons with transverse grooves in Porsche drive mechanism, and 9mm screwed down winding crown… all of the elements of the new Porsche design are reminiscent of the Carrera GT. On the back of the case, a sapphire crystal base secured by six magnificent screws lets you admire the winding crown’s splendid rotor in the form of a Carrera GT wheel rim. The titanium rotor wheel offers an excellent resistance/volume ratio, and the solid red gold exterior rotor supplies the requisite energy to the INDICATOR’S four spring drums.
The INDICATOR is fitted on a solid black rubber strap that has the Carrera GT’s Michelin tyre tread on its inner surface. Grooves on the strap’s outer surface help reduce perspiration and improve comfort and ease of wear. The strap is fastened with double tongue buckle, and finished with two elegant titanium loops.
Technical details
The calibre that drives the INDICATOR was developed from an ETA base. As well as a new main plate and house-manufactured bridges, it incorporates over 400 new components in the cage. A real mechanical masterpiece, it comprises almost 800 pieces in all.
This plate of this impressive movement is 36mm in diameter, which is the right vital dimension for good legibility of the digital display. Four spring drums provide it with energy. The first drives the basic movement. There are three others (whose force is controlled by three centrifugal brakes) for the display mechanisms’ chrono-digital functions. The indicator disks are commuted in two tenths of a second and returned to zero by an “engine drive.”
In other words, they are rest to zero the classic way, by a simple action on the lower push button.
Three primary functions:
[1] Chronograph indicator
Essential function of the INDICATOR, situated at 3 o’clock. Iindicated mechanically in digital mode by rotating disks (hours from zero to nine, in units and the ten minutes). Seconds count indicated in analogue display from the centre.) After nine hours 59 minutes, like the flag-out warning for flight navigators, the “out of service “signal appears in the hour window.
[2] Power reserve indicator
The design of the common power reserve display for all functions is protected by a special patent. The INDICATOR’S power reserve shows how much residual power remains in the four spring drums relative to the state of activation of the four winding springs. The colour-coded display enables immediate reading of the watch’s power reserve.
[3] Functions control indicator
Porsche Design envisaged an innovative functional control with the basic calibre. The movement function is controlled second by second with a new “mechanical flash display. Three dial windows show a disk with red and white segments whose alternating colours indicate the movement is working as it should. With this new style of display, you can see immediately whether the instrument is ready to fulfil all functions.
The INDICATOR comes in two versions, natural grey titanium or titanium with black finish. The exterior measurements and complex mechanics of this monster of technology are frankly impressive: 49 mm diameter, 18mm thick, water resistant to 50 meters. Produced in very limited edition the INDICATOR is already an exceptional piece that only very few, very rich enthusiasts will ever have the chance of getting hold of. Even they will have to sign up to join the waiting list at one of the rare retailers Porsche Design has selected to represent their new watch making jewel.
The new Porsche Design INDICATOR is an exceptional piece in every sense of the word.
Gigantic at first glance, its titanium structure and rubber strap make it very light and agreeable to the touch. Its imposing outline becomes almost natural when strapped to the wrist with the virile double tongue strap buckle. From then on, the size is less noticeable. The watch, on the other hand, becomes an object of contemplation. The simplicity of the dial, the subtleties of the counters and see-through hands are a real pleasure. A spectacle concentrated into 49mm diameter! A watch you immediately feel at ease with. A time-piece designed to go adventuring with you with absolutely no malfunction, in short, zero error equipment. Though maybe there’s just one small problem.
Vintage Genex watch Made for India
Overall, while Genex watches do not hold the same market value as Rolex-branded watches, they are significant in the history of Rolex's brand development and offer an intriguing piece of horological history for collectors and enthusiasts.”
Longines Enamel dial watch made for the Middle East market
Saturday, 4 October 2025
Sotheby's is auctioning the Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster watch in Geneva on November 9th.
Friday, 3 October 2025
Goofy Cartoon watch by Helbros
The Core Concept: Why It's "Backward"
The most striking feature is that the watch is designed to be read by someone else facing you, not by you looking down at your own wrist.
· Backward Dial: The numbers on the dial are printed in reverse order (clockwise: 1, 2, 3... becomes 11, 10, 9...).
· Backward Movement: The watch movement itself runs counter-clockwise. So the hour and minute hands move "backward" around the dial.
· The Result: When you hold the watch up for someone else to see (like to tell them the time), the dial is oriented correctly for them, and the hands point to the correct numbers from their perspective.
Key Features and History
· Era: Primarily from the 1940s and 1950s.
· Brand: Helbros was a well-regarded American watch company, and this is one of their most famous and memorable models.
· Nicknames: It's most commonly known as the "Goofy Watch," but you'll also see it called the "Backward Watch," "Reverse Watch," or "Upside-Down Watch."
· Design: They typically came in a simple, elegant gold-filled or chrome case. The dial is often a clean, two-tone design with simple hour markers.
How to Read a Helbros Goofy Watch
Reading it takes a little mental gymnastics until you get the hang of it.
Method 1: The Intended Way (for others)
Simply hold your arm out, showing the watch face to the person you're speaking to. For them, it will look like a perfectly normal watch, and they can read the time instantly.
Method 2: Reading It on Your Own Wrist
This is the tricky part. You have to "reverse" the information.
1. Look at where the hour hand is pointing.
2. Instead of reading the number it's near, think of its position as a mirror image.
3. A common trick is to imagine a "phantom" hour hand on the opposite side of the dial and read the number near that point.
Example:
· If the hour hand is pointing directly at the "9" on the dial, it's actually 3 o'clock.
· If it's halfway between the "10" and "11", it's halfway between 1 and 2 o'clock.
---
Why Was It Made? The Story Behind the Design
The most popular and charming theory is that it was a watch for:
· Salesmen
· Doctors
· Teachers
· Anyone who frequently needed to tell the time to others
The idea was that a salesman could quickly check his wrist during a presentation without being rude by turning his wrist away to read it. He could just glance down, see the backward face, and the client across the desk could also see the correct time without any effort. It was a tool of convenience and subtle showmanship.
Collectibility and Value
Today, the Helbros Goofy Watch is a sought-after vintage item.
· Condition is Key: As with all vintage watches, value depends heavily on the condition of the case, the clarity of the dial, and whether it's running well.
· Market Price: A working Helbros Backward Watch in good condition can typically be found in the $100 to $300 range, with exceptional examples or rare variations potentially going higher.
· Where to Find Them: Look on eBay, Etsy, and vintage watch forums.
In short, the Helbros Goofy Backward Watch is a clever, charming, and brilliantly executed gimmick from a golden age of watch design. It's more than just a timepiece; it's a wearable conversation piece.
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Vintage Mido Multifort rectangular 1940s
在現代大型腕錶主導的鐘錶世界裡,人們對小型腕錶的關注和興趣往往有限。然而,一些具有重要歷史意義的腕錶仍然能夠吸引收藏家的目光。例如,勞力士泡泡背腕錶和勞力士王子腕錶。今天,我們要講的就是這款擁有獨特錶殼設計的獨特腕錶。 在美度(Mido)Multifort 的漫長歷史中,圓形錶殼...
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