Thursday, 20 June 2024

Vacehron Constantin ref 4217 handwind watch

It is not an easy tasks to collect VC watches as they are are not as widespread and popular comparing to Patek & Rolex. Moreover, there are also much smaller in quantities. 

The Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4217 is considered a second-generation descendant of the early Calatrava-style watches from Vacheron Constantin, first introduced in the 1930s. These so called early Calatrava models utilized base movements from Jaeger LeCoultre as Vacheron Constantin began serially producing more modern wrist watches.

The Reference 4217 specifically began production in the early to mid 1940s, featuring the Caliber 454 center-seconds movement. A related Reference 4073 model used the Caliber 453 sub-seconds movement. It was produced in Yellow gold, white gold, platinum and steel.

Examples of the Reference 4217 have been documented from 1944 through the mid-1970s, with the bulk of available models dating to the late 1940s and 1950s. This aligns with the fashions of those decades, as the model seems to have been discontinued in the early to mid 1970s.

The case numbers for the Reference 4217 provide clues to the production timeline - beginning with 277xxx in the 1940s, reaching 37xxxx by the end of the 1950s, and 382xxx in the 1960s. This suggests this particular watch 358xxx likely dates to the late 1950s. I like this watch very much as the earlier 4217 watches from the 1940s only has “Vacheron & Constantin “ on the dial while the late 1950s model has added the VC Maltese Cross on the dial, making it vintage with a modern touch and made the watch more “complete” in my opinion. The ref 4217 from the year 1955 is still without the VC Maltese Cross.











VC 4217 from 1955 without the VC Maltese Cross

These Reference 4217 watches featured 18 jewels and were stamped with hot/cold isochronism and the Geneva Seal indicating their high quality. The dials were typically finished in nitrocellulose varnish.



For further reading, please see :



Besides this, VC has made special VC 4217 enemal dial as below










Saturday, 15 June 2024

Tuesday, 11 June 2024

Rolex Bubbleback ref 2764 with subsidiary seconds from 1942

This is a vintage 1942 Rolex BubbleBack Oyster Perpetual Chronometer Men's Watch with a ref.2764. The watch features a subsidiary seconds and silver fixed bezel and a gray stainless steel case with a  caseback. The watch is equipped with a mechanical automatic movement and a two-piece leather strap.

This is my second attempt in getting the watch. The first time, I have placed a bid lower then US$1950+20 and I have failed to get it. For some strange reasons, the same watch was listed again on eBay but by another seller and I have managed to get it at a lower price US$1775+US$102.(HK$13,858)

I have collected a few Rolex Bubbleback but this is my second Rolex bubbleback in subsidiary seconds hands.
























Sunday, 9 June 2024

Rolex ref 4645 Square Bubbleback

I have always love the Rolex bubbleback watches. We all know that Rolex is so closely identified with its trademark waterproof Oyster case since the 1920-30s. However, there are exceptions namely the Rolex Prince and some square handwind watches. 

Even though I have collected the Rolex Bubbleback for many years, I have yet to find one square Bubbleback that is appealing to me.  I have seen a few of these square Bubbleback in the smaller 28mm size but it doesn’t appeal to me.

It is important to mention that there are a few versions of the Rolex Square Bubbleback namely :

Ref #8126 Lady Bubbleback 22.5mm 

Ref #4663 Lady Bubbleback 24mm

Ref #4643 28mm


Ref #4645 31mm. 

Of the references, the ref 4645 is my preferred one as it has the biggest case size among the few. I was offered a rose gold ref 4646 on the 10th June 2024, but I was slow in accepting as I went overseas. In the end, I have managed to find one in yellow gold instead. It has a very interesting extended lugs, stepped case plus a very thick curved crytal.



The Rolex 4645 has an interesting stepped case






It has an interesting Pillow shaped back case

The above watch is unique as it is a 14k gold square Bubbleback and it is  an Officially Certified Chronometer. 





The watch remains in original condition with the serial number and Rolex coronet visible on the case back. Furthermore, it retains what appears to be its original crystal and the straight lugs and curved edges of the case offer a textbook and clear case of how the watch appeared as new. It has a nice Rolex acorn crown too!

The square Bubbleback is non oyster and it does not have a water-resistant Oyster case. The watch has a massive, polished, stepped sides, straight lugs. The dial is in mat silver, with applied gold indexes with an auxiliary seconds dial. "Dauphine" gold hands. M. 9 3/4� rhodiumed, 17 jewels, lever escapement, Superbalance balance adjusted to 6 positions, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. This will fit nicely into my Bubbleback collection.


Below is a Square bubbleback with nice closonnie dial being auctioned in 2016:



From the internet, one can see another version of the square bubbleback case, with a flat back case:

Straight back case




The Ref #8094 29mm below looks like a square bubbleback but it is a Hand winding watch and and not Bubbleback automatic.



Photos from the internet 






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Breguet Tyoe XX

This is a classic and historically significant Breguet Type 20 (Ref. 5101/54) flyback chronograph issued to the French Air Force (*Armée de ...

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