Gruen Doctor watch 1930s with chronometer Rolex grade movement

This is an "unusual" vintage 1930s Gruen Doctor watch. What is unique about this is that the movement is Chronometer grade Timed 6 positions Rolex cailber 300 marking movement. Normally, there are many Rolex Prince doctor’s watch using Gruen movement as both Rolex and Gruen (and Aplina Gruen) movements are being produced by the same manufacturer Aegler in Bienne using caliber 877 and they are basically interchangeable.

Example of Gruen movement being used in Rolex Prince watch

Gruen is sold mainly in the US while Rolex vintage Prince watches were sold more in the commonwealth countries. Rolex sold this watch as the Prince in Europe and throughout the British Empire, marketing it to “men of distinction,” while Gruen sold it in the U.S. to the “man who requires the exact time in seconds.” Gruen sold its shares in Aegler in 1934, which effectively ended the production of the Techni-Quadron. With Gruen out of the way, Rolex was allowed to sell the Prince in the United States, which it did from the 1940s to the 195

Rolex Prince tends to play around with the outer case design (Straight case, Railway, Brancard case) while Gruen focuses on case design as  well as having filigree engraving on the case.

Some history : After the stock market crash of 1929, Aegler purchased 6960 shares of Rolex, and Hermann Aegler was granted a position on the board. This would establish a long and fruitful partnership, which still continues to this day: in the 1930s, Hermann Aegler would sell his shares of Rolex back to Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and Rolex would eventually buy Aegler’s factory in 2004.

Gruen cased Doctor's watch but it is fitted with a Rolex caliber 300 movement

I am contemplating in doing a project to rectify the mis-matched movement vs case. I have already a set of old Rolex steel outer and inner case. Just needed a Rolex dial.... a project maybe...

Rolex ref 6309 Pre Thunderbird Bubbleback Datejust Rose gold

This is a Rolex 6309 pre-Thunderbird Bubbleback datejust in 18k rose gold using the semi bubbleback cal 745 movement. The cal 745 is an 18 jewel automatic (self-winding) movement. It is also known as an A295 because it is 29.5 mm in diameter. It features a calendar and a sweep second hand. The ref 6309 is the second generation of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph, first introduced in 1954. It remained in production for five years up until 1959. It featured an upgraded movement and a graduated bezel tailored to measure elapsed time in a similar way to a chronograph but without the expense of a chronograph movement. 

A vintage ad for the Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 explains, “…now the simplest of all ways of timing has been invented. It is built into a wrist-watch called the Rolex Turn-O-Graph. This new principle consists of an extra rim or bezel round the watch face. This rim is marked from zero to sixty and is easily turned by hand. To time an operation or even, all you have to do is align the zero mark on the rim with the second, minute, or hour hand of the watch. Thereafter, at any moment, you have an immediate record of the time elapsed.”

What made this model attractive are the following :  

1. It has a roulette red black date wheel, with 

2. a red Datejust wording on the dial and  

3. a nice crisscross “clous de Paris” design engine turned bezel.  

Following the Rolex 6309 reference is the Rolex 6609. Of all the Datejust models, the 6309 IMHO is the prettiest as there are so much details in the  nice crisscross “clous de Paris” design engine turned bezel design. Moreover, even though the watch is 36mm size, the added bezel has given the watch a wider look and feel...

It comes with the original vintage + crown 

The Rolex 6609 is similar looking with the Rolex 6309 except for the bezel design (6609 with straight lines Bezel while 6309 with crisscross “clous de Paris” designed) and the movement (6609 using the Butterfly movement vs the semi bubbleback cal A295 movement). 

I have seen the watch several months ago. After much consideration, I have to use a Rolex ref 6609 + Rolex 6604 plus cash top up for this! 

Rolex ref 6604 Datejust with smooth bezel

The DateJust began its life in 1945 with the introduction of ref. 4467,5030,5031,5075,6031 using the bubbleback movements. The Datejust series then evole to 6075,6074, 6104, 6015 using the semin bubbleback movements. Rolex's cal. A.295 (and later the upgraded A.296) was manufactured between 1945 and 1956. By the time it launched ref 6304 and 6305, came the improved cal. 1065 and with it the DateJust 6604 and 6605. 

The Rolex Big bubbleback series leading to the Datejust consists of the following 

Rolex ref 4467 (solid Gold from year 1945-1949)  
Rolex ref 5030 (Solid gold) , Bi colour steel and gold 5031, 5075, 6031 (from year 1949 - 1950)，
Rolex ref 6075, 6074 (Bi colour from year 1950 - 1953)
Rolex 6104, 6105 (Bi colour modified A296，from year 1951 - 1953) 
Rolex 6304 , 6305, 6309(Pre ThunderBird) (A296，from year 1953 - 1956)
Rolex Datejust 6604, 6605, 6609(Thunderbird), 1600, 1601,1603, 1607, 1625 (Thunderbird) (from 1959 - 1977 onwards using Butterfly movement calibre generation features cal. 1065 and later cal. 1565 and 1575.)

This 6604/5  was manufactured for only three years between 1956 and 1958 at which point it was replaced by the 160x series with the 1565/1575 movement. Given the short time frame that the 6604/5 was made, it is hard to argue that this reference number is among the most rare DateJust models. The Rolex ref 6604 with a smooth bezel instead of the fluted bezel (6605) and the below watch comes with an aged gilt dial. I have traded one of my big bubbleback plus cash top up for this. The watch has a SWISS only dial using cal 1065.

I have tried to goggle to see if there is another 6604 with smooth bezel and found a few. 

https://www.thewatchboutique.com/en/product/rolex-datejust-6605/

https://classicwatchny.com/watches/sold/soldrolex-vintage-datejust-ref-6605-pink-gold-stunning-watch/

Both gilt dials watches from the 1950s

Collections of Datejust

Quite sometime back, I have predicted that the prices of the Datejust series will rise and continue to escalate owing to the 36mm size and very robust movement (often used in teh sports series as well). True enough, when one check the normal Rolex 1601 or 1603, the prices have already escalated especially for those special colouredcdial and precious solid gold watches, especially the rose gold series. Another reasons for the increase in watch prices is that the newly lauched Datejust watch prices are also very expensive now and making these vintage series a good value for money buy.

Vintage Omega Dynamic 1970s

This is a vintage 1970s Omega Dynamic. The Omega Genève Dynamic watches were created in 1967 and launched to the public in 1968. It has a few variations namely without date, with date and day date versions. The designer of the collection was Raymond Thévenaz. The name, Dynamic, refers to the shape of the case, which was the result of an in-depth study of the anatomy of the wrist. Thévenaz wanted to create a timepiece that sits on the wrist comfortably. The line became a success and went on several years. Omega still released newer Dynamic models in 1977, eight years after the first watches came to the market. It comes in steel and gold cap. 

These 1970s Omega dynamic were often neglected by collectors in the past. Given the growing popularity of bigger size watches, these watches have began to gain popularity especially among younger consumers. Over weekend, I have managed to find one in new old stock condition..

https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-geneve-dynamic-watches-from-the-1970s/#gref

Octo Missilemaster watch

Not many collector collects Mid price brand Octo. I have finally managed to find one Octo Missilemaster automatic watch with date  in 30 jewels. There is another version without date. What made this watch special is the small details at the dial 12 o'clock position where there is a 3 dimensional Butterfly instead of having a normal marker, as well as its back case where there is a gold medallion.

遲唔會遲，早唔會早，帶錶帶樂都，時間啱啱好！

Rolex ref 6610 Explorer 1

This article was written in 2013 ....

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Rolex Explorer1 ref 6610

As metioned earlier, i was actively hunting for a gilt dial 6610. I have finally found a nice condition Rolex 6610 gilt dial Explorer 1 from 1957. I will need to  use my Rolex Thunderbird 1625 + WW2 Pilot Laco watch plus cash to trade. I have come across several Explorer 1 in 5504 version and 1016 version but I have made mistakes by cutting them to friends. 

The Ref. 6150 was replaced by Ref. 6610. The 6610 was equipped with the new Calibre 1030 movement and the original Bubble Back back case was also changed to be flat. The Rolex 6610, with gilt dial, were only being produced for several years and was replaced by the Explorer Ref. 1016 in 1963. The size of these early watch is very comfortable to wear for everyday use..with the right weight and balance.

The deciding process for this 6610 was not easy as the were two 6610 watches (yes two) to choose from. The one that I bought and another one with dial that is turning chocolate and with spring bracelet. Originally, my desire  was to go for the one with the spring bracelet with dial condition turning brown (and showing signs of flaking) plus there was some corrosion at the back case.

After deep consideration, I reminded myself that the fever for chocolate dial or the tropical dial is something of a man made fever. My rational mind keeps reminding me to take the watch in better condition, better dial and better case.

Perhaps these decision making process are part of the fun as it really test one's preference and core values in vintage watch collection.

There are many sellers who came up with fanciful name in their efforts to better promote the watches. Faded gilt dial is called tropical, Pepsi or chocolate dial. Normal White Sea dweller, some called it the great white), the cracked 5513 dial is known as the spider dial, the colored dial for day date is now the Stella... Etc. all these fanciful names were not used in the 80s-90s and early year 2000.

In the end, the choice is up to the individual of course. However, if one wants to buy a Ming dynastic antique vase, will he choose one that is in perfect condition or one that has been wormed out by weather and in less then ideal condition? In the past for vintage watch collection, the earlier collectors were going after watches in perfect conditions despite the age.... Food for thought...Haha

Even though I need to sacrifice a few watches to exchange for this 6610, I have no problem with it as my collection is getting huge and its a good time to streamline my collection by down sizing them for easy management. Looks like I am going to start my operation streamlining soon...

For the “Red Depths” 6610:

Serial 114XXX….i56

Serial 1139XX…i56

Serial 114XXX…..i56

Serial 168xxx ii56

Serial 1142XX…i56

Rolex ref 6610 Explorer 1 Gilt dial

Besides the Rolex Bubbleback series, Prince series and Datejust series, the Explorer series are also one of my favourite as it has the Sporty look reinforced in the Dress watch format. The Rolex Explorer reference 6610 is one of the early Explorer models, and a favorite among collectors. Originally introduced in 1959, it replaced the reference ref 6150 that was using the bubbleback movement.

The 6610 is made of stainless steel, the water-resistant case measures about 36 millimeters in diameter. Being an earlier Rolex model, the case is waterproof up to 50 meters. It accomplishes this through Rolex Oyster technology, which utilizes a screw down crown and caseback. As it is without the Date function, the overall design is well balance and timeless.

Rolex Explorer The official 3-6-9 in Black dial : 

There are several versions of Rolex watches with the 3:6:9 markers on dial in the dressed watch format. Rolex officially rolled out the black “3-6-9” dial with refs. 6150 and 6350 – the successors of the 6098 and 6298. Both the references used the A296 “big bubbleback” movement and the Ovettone cases. 

The inverted triangle at the top of the dial, printed Rolex text and coronet and the painted 3-6-9 numerals. The addition of Mercedes-pattern hands also came with refs. 6150 and 6350, although there were watches that were fitted with “pencil” hands, like those seen on the ref. 6204/5 Submariner too. The only difference between these two models was that the ref 6150 was designated “Precision” and the ref 6350 was chronometer rated and stamped with the words “Officially Certified Chronometer” (OCC). There are many reconditioned dial for the 6350 in honeycomb dial and collector must be careful.

Both references used the same movement but the OCCs were fine-tuned and better QC to better precision. The 6350 was also the first reference to bear the mighty moniker — Explorer. 

The original 6610 has a gilt dial marked by gold text, chapter ring dial, and Mercedes hands. Aside from the rare albino dial, the 6610 dial is typically black, finished with a lacquer coating, and sports luminous baton markers and Arabic numbers and the Rolex explorer has evolved to be part of the “sports collection”. The 6610’s calibre 1030 was a lot slimmer than its bubbleback predecessors and so a new case design was produced that was still well-proportioned at 36mm with a 20mm lug width. The slimmer movement meant that a flatter caseback could be fitted to the watch and it was this shape that became the standard for many years to come.

The Rolex 6610 was produced from 1956- 1963 before it was replaced by the reference 1016. Though quite similar in appearance, the Rolex reference 1016 uses the caliber 1560 movement and has an increased waterproof depth from 50 meters to 100 meters, as the Oyster case saw continued refinement. In addition, the Rolex 6610 has OCC Officially Certified Chronometer. 

This is my second Rolex 6610. I couldn’t resist in getting it as the condition is good for an old vintage watch plus it has a nice gilt dial. The watch is highly accurate for a 60+ years old watch. I shall look for an old Rolex metal rivet bracelet to match with the watch.

Latest update :

The Rolex Explorer 1 references bridge the gap between a dress watch and a sports watch. Without the crown guards and rotating bezels commonly found on sports models offered by Rolex, the Explorer 1, therefore, has a cleaner, sleeker profile while incorporating recognizable sport model features into the dial. The highly visible block indices, luminescent numerals at the 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock positions, and Submariner style triangle at the 12 o'clock position allow for readability under any conditions. The Submariner hands featured on the Ref. 6610 add to the unique feel and appearance.

I have finally found an old but fully restored vintage Rolex 7206 rivet bracelet for the Rolex ref 6610. The metal bracelet in my opinion is very suitable for summer use. 

Please read details from https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html

Just sent the watch for a service and the watch is working smoothly and accurate.