Philips auction for Franck Muller Watch

菲利普斯拍卖行拍卖的法穆兰腕表以HK$660,400港元成交

1970s Glashutte Spezichron with 22 Rubis Automatic watch

I have always love history and this is a 1970s Glashutte Spezichron with 22Rubis Automatic Watch. 

The 

GUB Glashütte Spezichron wristwatch was the successor to the highly successful Spezimatic line and was introduced in 1979 by the state-owned watch conglomerate of the German Democratic Republic (DDR). It represents a period of East German watchmaking focused on in-house mechanical movements, despite the limitations of the era.

Formation of GUB

The traditional watchmaking centers in the east of Germany were more or less destroyed in 1945. The towns of Glashütte and Ruhla were hit particularly hard. Nearly all of the machinery that survived WWII intact was transported to Moscow as part of the post-war reparations. Companies like A. Lange & Söhne, UROFA, and Mühle & Sohn were nationalized and reorganized into publicly owned enterprises (in German: Volkseigener Betrieb, or VEB). Despite these difficulties, watches were once again being produced in Glashütte as soon as 1946. It took Ruhla three additional years to recover from the blow and restart production.

Following World War II, the watchmaking companies in the town of Glashütte, Saxony, found themselves in the Soviet occupied zone, which became the DDR. In 1951, the state authorities ordered all resident watchmaking companies, including A. Lange & Söhne and UROFA, to merge into a single, state-owned enterprise called VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). The remaining machinery from the original companies had largely been seized as war reparations and sent to Moscow, so GUB was forced to restart production with limited equipment. A year later, a similar demand in Ruhla led to the formation of the VEB Uhren- und Maschinenfabrik (UMF). Some 15 years later, the GUB and UMF joined forces with the VEB Uhrenwerk Weimar to become the conglomerate VEB Uhrenkombinat Ruhla, which was subsequently renamed VEB Uhrenwerke Ruhla (UWR) in 1978.

The Spezichron Era

The Spezichron was developed as an evolution of the popular Spezimatic model, which had a production run from the 1960s to the late 1970s. 

Introduction and Production: The Spezichron debuted in 1979 and production continued until around 1985.

• Movement: It was powered by the new Caliber 11-26 (without date) and Caliber 11-27(with date) movements. These movements were an improvement over their predecessors, featuring a higher beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour (bph), which contributed to better accuracy.
• Context: During the 1970s and 1980s, while Western watchmakers grappled with the "quartz crisis," GUB, largely insulated by the Iron Curtain, continued to focus on developing and refining its traditional mechanical movements.
• Market: GUB watches, including the Spezichron, were key export products for the DDR, with most of them sold internationally rather than domestically. 
• Legacy
• After German reunification in 1990, GUB was privatized, eventually becoming the luxury brand Glashütte Original in 1994, which continues the town's watchmaking heritage to this day. The Spezichron watches are now valued by collectors as interesting vintage pieces with a unique historical context from the Cold War era. 
• This Watch is an Honour gift ZK of the SED and it is Made in GDR -DDR East Germany.

HONOUR GIFT DESZK DERSED

Vintage Rolex GMT Master ref 6542 (from 1958) Rolex 1675 (from 1972), 16753 (from 1984) Rolex 16758 (from 1981) 116710LN (from 2011).

Over the years, i have managed to slowly grow my Rolex GMT collection. Vintage Rolex GMT Master ref 6542 (from 1958) Rolex 1675 (from 1972), 16753 (from 1984) Rolex 16758 (from 1981) 116710LN (from 2011).

 #rolexgmt #rolexgmt16753 #rolex16753 #rolex16753nippledial #rolex16753rootbeer #rolex16753brown #rolexgmt 

#rolexgmtmaster 

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#rolexgmt1675mk2 

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#rolex1675matte 

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#rolexgmtmaster

#1675gmtmaster

#vintagerolex 

#1675 

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#rolex1675 

#gmtmaster #rolex16758 rootbeer #rolex16758nippledial #rolex16758gmt #rolex16758brown #rolex116710ln #rolex116710lnrolexgmt2

Rolex 5018 with 9 Rolex crowns on dial

This is a rare vintage Rolex Bubbleback watch featuring a special dial configuration with 9 applied Rolex coronets as hour markers, a design that stands out among the many dial variations found on early “Bubbleback” models. 

Such multi-crown dials, sometimes referred to by collectors as “coronet dials,” are exceptionally uncommon and are sought after by vintage Rolex enthusiasts due to their distinctive aesthetic and historic significance. In Hong Kong, these dials were often referred to as 如來祌掌！

Historical Context and Rarity

• The Rolex Bubbleback, produced from roughly 1933–1955, was the first mass-market automatic Rolex and is crucial to the brand’s legacy.

• Bubblebacks are known for their eccentric mix of dial styles—Arabic, Roman, California (“Error Proof”) dials, and special motif dials like yours with multiple coronets.

• The 9-crown dial is notably rare and represents an era when Rolex experimented with bold design choices for both technical and marketing reasons.

Collectibility and Market Value

• Rare dial variations, especially those featuring multiple coronets, command a premium among collectors. Such watches are often spotlighted at vintage auctions and can sell well above standard Bubbleback models due to their desirability.

• The overall value depends on originality, condition, matching reference and dial, and provenance. Unusual features like your 9-crown dial often result in strong auction interest from connoisseurs and specialists. This is a unique Rolex with 9 crowns on the dial and with the special bombe lugs.  I have owned this watch since 1997 and after several decades, the watch is finally out for a complete service by KK Sifu. It is one of my rare find from the late 1990s.

Vintage 1970s Chinese Kongque hand wind watch

Many collector would think that collecting vintage Chinese watches is an easy task as the quantities of these watches must be huge. However, the reality is completely different. Even though the quantities may be huge in numbers, but as these watches were considered "luxury" during the 1970s, only a relatively small group of people was able to own one. Moreover, as these watches were often used daily, not many of these watches survived till now.

History and Era

Liaoning Watch Factory has been in operation since 1958. It is now one of China's largest movement factories. Early on, the factory produced countless movements based on Swiss and Russian movements. 

Its first watches, branded ‘Qianjin’ (meaning Forward) with the SL1 and SL1A movements, were completed in 1960. These were probably made on imported Soviet tooling as they had a design identical to the 2408 movement introduced in the famous ‘Kirovskie’ watch (that was named after the prominent early Bolshevik leader, Sergei Kirov) and the modified 2409 version used in the ‘Stolichnie’ of the 1st Moscow Watch Factory in Russia. ‘Liaoning’ and ‘Wannianqing’ (meaning Evergreen) branded watches followed, until the introduction of the 'Hongqi' (Red Flag) in 1966 with an SL2 movement (unique to Liaoning) built on imported Swiss tooling.Watches made by the Liaoning Watch Factory (which later produced the Kongque brand) in the 1960s were typically branded as "Qianjin" (meaning "Forward") or "Hongqi" (meaning "Red Flag"). The "Kongque" (Peacock) brand was formally introduced in 1978 for both domestic and export markets. Therefore, a watch specifically branded as "Kongque" is more likely a 1970s or 1980s model.

Characteristics

Movement: Early Liaoning watches (1960s) used movements based on imported Soviet or Swiss tooling, such as the SL1, SL1A, or SL2 movements. Later Kongque watches from the 1970s often contained the "Tongji" or Chinese Standard Movement, a unified movement design used across many factories in China.  1970s Kongque (which means Peacock) manual-winder with a 17 jewels 统机 (Tongji) movement (i.e. Chinese Standard Movement) produced by the Liaoning Watch Factory (now Liaoning Peacock Watch Company Ltd) in northeastern China. Stainless steel case back stamped with 辽宁手表 (meaning Liaoning Watch) L (letter code for Liaoning) Kong Que (the watch brand) Fang Ci (meaning Antimagnetic).

Many Chinese standard movements have a code marked on the wheel train bridge (and sometimes also on the base plate under the balance wheel) indicating the factory at which it was manufactured. These codes are generally three characters long, and start with a Z (Zhongguo = China) followed by two characters for the factory. For example, ZLN for the Liaoning Watch Factory. Some Kongque/Peacock brand watches had ‘PEACOCK’ on the wheel train bridge (this was later replaced by the factory code ZLN). Other factory codes used by Liaoning are SL or SZL.

In the 1970s, Liaoning Watch Factory improved upon the Chinese Standard Movement and commenced production of a new watch series, also branded Hongqi, using their SL3 movement. 1978 marked the introduction of the Kongque/Peacock brand. Kongque watches, both hand-winding and automatic, were exported as 'Peacock' brand. The export Peacock automatics were one response to the success of quartz watches, another was to begin selling movements to Hong Kong watch producers. The Liaoning 'ZLN' soon became one of the most commonly used Chinese Standard movements in the watch industry. Chinese mechanical watches at the time were assigned a ‘grade’ of either 1, 2, 3 or 4 as a general indication of quality, with grade 1 watches being the highest quality and grade 4 the lowest. Kongque was regarded as a grade 1 brand in 1983. Despite declining sales on the domestic market Liaoning Watch Factory continued to develop and introduce new designs, products and variants and, in May 2011 the company moved into new headquarters in Liaoning Watch Industrial Park. The Peacock brand, once thought to be consigned to history, was reintroduced in the second decade of the 21st century.

Design: These watches generally feature classic, understated aesthetics, often with stainless steel case backs and various dial designs. The condition, presence of original papers, and unique complications (e.g., date function) influence their value. However, this piece is unique as the designs are very elaborate and loud!

Quality: In 1983, Kongque was considered a "grade 1" brand, indicating a high level of quality within the Chinese watch industry at the time. Many of these mechanical hand-wind watches from the era are still functional today, a testament to their durable construction. 

This is a rather unusual Chinese 1970s watch made by Kongque watch company with a very unique multi layered dials, which still good even now. Many would also think that these vintage Chinese watches should be cheap but the reality is different. With the economic progress for the past decades, many Chinese collectors are paying serious monies for these watches in original conditions. My last serious find for these Chinese watch was in October 2024, about a year ago. Finding these vintage watches are not an easy task.

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Rolex Hooded Bubbleback ref 3064 from 1938

The Rolex "Bubbleback" ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds is a highly collectible and historically significant watch. It's often called the watch that saved Rolex and established the foundation for the modern Oyster Perpetual line.

The Bubbleback, produced from the 1930s to the 1950s, was Rolex's first serially produced automatic (or "Perpetual") wristwatch. Its nickname comes from the distinctive curved case back that bulged out to accommodate the oversized rotor of the early automatic movement. This "bubble" was necessary to give the rotor enough space to swing freely.

The Ref. 3064 is one of the earlier and more classic Bubbleback models.

Key Features of the Rolex Ref. 3064 (with Subsidiary Seconds)

When you specify "subsidiary seconds," is a key differentiator from the more common center-seconds Bubblebacks.

1. The Case & "Hooded" Lugs:

· "Hooded" Lugs: This is a defining feature. The lugs are not separate entities welded to the case but are instead carved from the same block of steel or gold as the mid-case. They curve sharply downward, "hugging" or "hooding" the wrist, which gives the watch a very distinctive, integrated, and robust look. This design provides a very secure fit on the wrist. Some said these are made for the US market.

· Material: Typically found in stainless steel, yellow gold, or pink gold (Rolex called it "pink" at the time).

· Size: Small by modern standards, usually around 31-32mm in diameter. This was a standard men's size in the 1940s.

· Oyster Case: As with all Oysters, it features the patented screw-down crown and case back, making it highly water-resistant for its time.

2. The Dial (A Critical Element):

· Subsidiary Seconds: Instead of a central seconds hand, the seconds hand is on a small sub-dial at 6 o'clock. This layout is often considered more elegant and traditional, and it is less common than the center-seconds version on Bubblebacks, making it more desirable to collectors.

· Dial Designs: You will find several variations:

  · Two-Tone ("Bicolor"): The most iconic look for this model. The outer track (with the minute markers) is a silvery or champagne color, while the inner sector is a darker, contrasting color like black or deep brown.

  · Solid Color: Silver, black, or champagne.

  · Indices: Often featured applied gold or steel Arabic numerals (3, 6, 9, 12) with baton or dagger markers for the other hours. Some had all Arabic numerals or all batons.

  · Patina: It is absolutely expected and desirable for these dials to have developed a patina. This can include a creamy tone (tropicalization), light cracking ("spider-webbing"), and fading. A pristine, original dial is extremely rare.

3. The Movement:

· The Ref. 3064 was powered by the Rolex Caliber 59. This was a robust, 19-jewel automatic movement based on a A. Schild ebauche.

· The "Bubbleback" case back was specifically designed for this movement and its successors (like the Cal. 9 3/4"' and Cal. 10 1/2"').

4. Crystal:

· Originally fitted with a Plexiglass (acrylic) crystal that has a distinct dome, contributing to the vintage charm.

Why is it Collectible?

· Historical Significance: It's the progenitor of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line.

· Distinctive Design: The "bubble" case back and "hooded" lugs are unique and instantly recognizable.

· Charm and Patina: Its small size and vintage character offer a classic aesthetic that modern watches often lack.

· Relative Rarity: The subsidiary seconds version is less common than the center-seconds models.

What to Look For When Buying One

If you are considering purchasing a Ref. 3064, be very careful:

1. Authenticity: The market has many frankens and redials. Buy from a reputable dealer.

2. Condition: Look for a case that has not been over-polished. Sharp, defined "hooded" lugs are a sign of a well-preserved case. Over-polishing flattens the lugs and reduces the value.

3. Originality: The most important factor for value. An original, untouched dial with even patina is far more valuable than a refinished "like-new" dial. The hands should also be original and match the patina of the dial.

4. Function: The movement should be serviced and running well. Parts for these old movements can be difficult to source.

The Rolex Bubbleback Ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds and hooded lugs is a cornerstone of vintage Rolex collecting. It represents a perfect blend of groundbreaking technology (the automatic Oyster case) and a charming, distinct design that is unmistakably from the 1940s. It's a watch with immense character and a direct link to the history that made Rolex the giant it is today. Throughout the years of collecting, I have managed to find 5 Rolex  hooded watches of various dials and the Rolex hooded 3064 with subsidiary seconds will fit nicely to my small collections of hooded bubbleback.

Universal Geneve Polerouter

The Universal Genève Polerouter is a legendary watch, highly respected by collectors and enthusiasts for its design, innovation, and historical significance. It's often considered one of the best-value vintage watches from the "Golden Age" of horology.

The Core Story: A Watch Born from Aviation

The Polerouter's origin story is a key part of its charm. In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) inaugurated its "Polar Route," a revolutionary commercial flight path from Copenhagen to Los Angeles that flew over the North Pole.

· The Commission: SAS commissioned a robust, accurate, and anti-magnetic watch for the pilots and crew of these historic flights.

· The Designer: The task of designing this watch was given to a young, 23-year-old Gérald Genta, who would later become the most famous watch designer in history, creating icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

· The Name: Originally named the "Polarouter," it was later stylized to "Polerouter."

Key Highlights and Why It's So Coveted

1. The Design (by Gérald Genta)

The Polerouter features a brilliant, space-saving design that was ahead of its time.

· "Bombé" Lugs: The lugs curve downward sharply, hugging the wrist for a comfortable and secure fit. This is a signature feature of the early models.

· Integrated Case and Dial: The design feels cohesive, with the case, lugs, and dial elements working in harmony.

· Distinctive Dial Variations: Polerouters came with a variety of stunning dials, including:

  · "Honeycomb" or "Grid" Dial: The most famous and sought-after version, with a textured pattern that plays beautifully with light.

  · Tropical Dials: Some black dials have faded to a rich chocolate brown over time, highly prized by collectors.

  · Gilt Dials: Featuring glossy black backgrounds with gold-applied indices and text.

  · Simple Sunburst or Matte Dials: Elegant and clean.

2. The Movement: The Micro-Rotor Revolution

This is the Polerouter's technical masterpiece. Universal Genève equipped many models with the UG Caliber 138SS.

· Innovation: The Cal. 138SS was one of the first commercially successful automatic wristwatch movements to feature a micro-rotor.

· What is a Micro-rotor? Instead of a large, full-radius rotor that obscures the movement, the micro-rotor is a small rotor set into the movement's bridgework. This allowed Universal Genève to create a watch that was both automatic and incredibly thin. There are 4 main calibers namely calibers 69,72,215, 218.

· Significance: This was a major engineering achievement in the 1950s, putting the Polerouter at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Later versions (like the Polerouter Date) used the Cal. 218 series, another highly regarded micro-rotor movement.

Popular Models and References

The Polerouter was produced in several iterations throughout the 1950s and 1960s. The most common and collectible are:

1. Polerouter "Original" (Ref. 20217): The classic, no-date model with bombé lugs and a sub-seconds dial. The quintessential Genta design.

2. Polerouter Date (Ref. 20239): Adds a date window, often with a "Super-Style" case that is slightly less pronounced than the original bombé lugs.

3. Polerouter "Sub" (Ref. 21585-1): A sporty, water-resistant model with a rotating bezel, crown guards, and superior water resistance. A true tool watch.

4. Polerouter Jet (Ref. 20248): A dressier version with sharp, straight lugs.

Buying a Vintage Polerouter: What to Look For

The Polerouter market has heated up in recent years, but it still offers incredible value compared to other Genta-designed watches.

Considerations:

· Condition is King: Look for a watch with a clean, unpolished case that still has sharp lines. The lugs are often over-polished, which devalues the watch.

· The Dial is Everything: An original, untouched dial with a beautiful patina (like a well-aged honeycomb) is the most important factor. Beware of refinished or repainted dials.

· Movement: Ensure it's running well. Service costs for these micro-rotor movements can be higher than for standard movements, so factor that in.

· Authenticity: Check that the dial, hands, and case reference numbers are consistent and correct for the model. The crown should be a UG-signed crown.

Price Range:

You can find entry-level Polerouter Dates for $1,000 - $2,000. A clean "Original" with a honeycomb dial will typically be in the $2,500 - $4,500+ range. Exceptional examples, like a Polerouter Sub or a perfect tropical dial, can command $5,000+.

Comparison to Competitors

In its era, the Polerouter competed with watches like the:

· Omega Constellation: Also a high-end, chronometer-grade watch. The Polerouter often has a more distinct, avant-garde design.

· Rolex Datejust: A more mainstream and robust luxury watch. The Polerouter is more niche, innovative, and design-focused.

The Universal Genève Polerouter is a perfect storm of what makes a vintage watch great:

· A fantastic story (Polar flight).

· Legendary designer (Young Gérald Genta).

· Technical innovation (Micro-rotor movement).

· Timeless, beautiful design.

It's a watch that offers a direct connection to a pivotal moment in both watchmaking and aviation history, and it remains a wearable, elegant, and deeply cool timepiece today. I am slowly building my small collection of vintage Universal geneve watches with the 18k Tri Compx, and a few special dials Universal Geneve.

Caliber 218