The Polerouter's origin story is a key part of its charm. In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) inaugurated its "Polar Route," a revolutionary commercial flight path from Copenhagen to Los Angeles that flew over the North Pole.
· The Commission: SAS commissioned a robust, accurate, and anti-magnetic watch for the pilots and crew of these historic flights.
· The Designer: The task of designing this watch was given to a young, 23-year-old Gérald Genta, who would later become the most famous watch designer in history, creating icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
· The Name: Originally named the "Polarouter," it was later stylized to "Polerouter."
Key Highlights and Why It's So Coveted
1. The Design (by Gérald Genta)
The Polerouter features a brilliant, space-saving design that was ahead of its time.
· "Bombé" Lugs: The lugs curve downward sharply, hugging the wrist for a comfortable and secure fit. This is a signature feature of the early models.
· Integrated Case and Dial: The design feels cohesive, with the case, lugs, and dial elements working in harmony.
· Distinctive Dial Variations: Polerouters came with a variety of stunning dials, including:
· "Honeycomb" or "Grid" Dial: The most famous and sought-after version, with a textured pattern that plays beautifully with light.
· Tropical Dials: Some black dials have faded to a rich chocolate brown over time, highly prized by collectors.
· Gilt Dials: Featuring glossy black backgrounds with gold-applied indices and text.
· Simple Sunburst or Matte Dials: Elegant and clean.
2. The Movement: The Micro-Rotor Revolution
This is the Polerouter's technical masterpiece. Universal Genève equipped many models with the UG Caliber 138SS.
· Innovation: The Cal. 138SS was one of the first commercially successful automatic wristwatch movements to feature a micro-rotor.
· What is a Micro-rotor? Instead of a large, full-radius rotor that obscures the movement, the micro-rotor is a small rotor set into the movement's bridgework. This allowed Universal Genève to create a watch that was both automatic and incredibly thin. There are 4 main calibers namely calibers 69,72,215, 218.
· Significance: This was a major engineering achievement in the 1950s, putting the Polerouter at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Later versions (like the Polerouter Date) used the Cal. 218 series, another highly regarded micro-rotor movement.
Popular Models and References
The Polerouter was produced in several iterations throughout the 1950s and 1960s. The most common and collectible are:
1. Polerouter "Original" (Ref. 20217): The classic, no-date model with bombé lugs and a sub-seconds dial. The quintessential Genta design.
2. Polerouter Date (Ref. 20239): Adds a date window, often with a "Super-Style" case that is slightly less pronounced than the original bombé lugs.
3. Polerouter "Sub" (Ref. 21585-1): A sporty, water-resistant model with a rotating bezel, crown guards, and superior water resistance. A true tool watch.
4. Polerouter Jet (Ref. 20248): A dressier version with sharp, straight lugs.
Buying a Vintage Polerouter: What to Look For
The Polerouter market has heated up in recent years, but it still offers incredible value compared to other Genta-designed watches.
Considerations:
· Condition is King: Look for a watch with a clean, unpolished case that still has sharp lines. The lugs are often over-polished, which devalues the watch.
· The Dial is Everything: An original, untouched dial with a beautiful patina (like a well-aged honeycomb) is the most important factor. Beware of refinished or repainted dials.
· Movement: Ensure it's running well. Service costs for these micro-rotor movements can be higher than for standard movements, so factor that in.
· Authenticity: Check that the dial, hands, and case reference numbers are consistent and correct for the model. The crown should be a UG-signed crown.
Price Range:
You can find entry-level Polerouter Dates for $1,000 - $2,000. A clean "Original" with a honeycomb dial will typically be in the $2,500 - $4,500+ range. Exceptional examples, like a Polerouter Sub or a perfect tropical dial, can command $5,000+.
Comparison to Competitors
In its era, the Polerouter competed with watches like the:
· Omega Constellation: Also a high-end, chronometer-grade watch. The Polerouter often has a more distinct, avant-garde design.
· Rolex Datejust: A more mainstream and robust luxury watch. The Polerouter is more niche, innovative, and design-focused.
Conclusion
The Universal Genève Polerouter is a perfect storm of what makes a vintage watch great:
· A fantastic story (Polar flight).
· Legendary designer (Young Gérald Genta).
· Technical innovation (Micro-rotor movement).
· Timeless, beautiful design.
It's a watch that offers a direct connection to a pivotal moment in both watchmaking and aviation history, and it remains a wearable, elegant, and deeply cool timepiece today.
