Sunday, 19 October 2025

J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era

This is a J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era. I first say this watch model at the Good Old Days antqiue watch shop at Lucky Plaza in 1987-88 when I first started watch collection. I have gave it a missed as I was focusing on Rolex Vintage bubbleback then. After 37 years, I have finally got one for old time sake.


1. J.W. Benson - The Maker : This is a key part of the watch's prestige.

· Reputation: J.W. Benson was a highly respected London-based watch and clock maker, founded in 1749. They were a "Purveyor to the Royal Household," meaning they supplied goods to the British Royal Family, a mark of exceptional quality and reputation.
· Quality: Benson was known for producing high-grade, precision instruments. Their military watches would have been built to withstand harsh conditions and keep accurate time, which was crucial for coordination in warfare.

2. "Trench Watch" - The Military Context : This is the historical heart of the watch. Trench watches, also called "wristlets" in their day, were a transitional style from the pocket watch.

· Origin: During World War I (1914-1918), soldiers found pocket watches impractical in the trenches. They began fitting them into crude metal cups with wire lugs and strapping them to their wrists for quick time-checking.
· Standardized Features: Watchmakers like Benson soon produced dedicated trench watches with:
  · Luminous Numerals: Radium-based paint on the hands and numerals for reading in the dark. 
  · Porcelain Enamel Dials: White, highly legible dials that were resistant to moisture and corrosion. Many featured a "shrapnel guard," a raised, curved piece of glass over the crystal.
  · Wire Lugs: The early, distinctive style of lugs that were soldered onto a converted pocket watch case.
  · Crown at 3 O'Clock: This was the new standard, moving away from the pocket watch's crown at 12 o'clock.

3. Silver Case - The Material. A silver case signifies a higher-quality timepiece, likely intended for an officer.

· Officer's Watch: While some trench watches were base metal, a silver case was more expensive and durable, often purchased by officers.
· Hallmarks: This is crucial. Inside the case back, you should find British Hallmarks. These will tell you:
  · The Assay Office: A leopard's head for London.
  · The Date Letter: A specific letter in a font/shield that denotes the year it was assayed.
  · The Maker's Mark: Benson's mark (likely "J.W.B" within a shield).
  · The Silver Standard: The lion passant (for .925 sterling silver).
    These hallmarks can precisely date your watch to a specific year, confirming its Art Deco era origin.

4. Cushion Case - The Form. The cushion case is a quintessential shape of the era.

· Design Evolution: It was a natural evolution from the round pocket watch, squaring off the edges to create a more modern, geometric form that sat well on the wrist.
· Art Deco Connection: The geometric cushion shape is a classic Art Deco motif, bridging the gap between the ornate Edwardian styles and the sleek, machine-age aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s.

5. Art Deco Era - The Design Period : The Art Deco period (roughly 1920-1939) perfectly overlaps with the later years of the trench watch's popularity and its evolution into the modern wristwatch.

· Stylistic Influence: On a watch, Art Deco is characterized by:
  · Geometric Shapes: The cushion case itself.
  · Stepped Designs: Cases or lugs with layered, stepped profiles.
  · Elegant Typography: Numerals that are more stylized and linear than their earlier, more ornate counterparts.
  · Contrast: Bold, legible designs with high contrast.

This is a truly special and collectible watch with a story spanning from the trenches of Europe to the jazz-age elegance of the Art Deco period.A rare early example of a ‘waterproof’ watch designed by Francois Borgel and retailed by JW Benson. A striking similarity to the cushion Rolex Oyster watch of the same period! 












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Vintage Cromwel spring watch bracelet commonly used in Rolex Bubbleback, Mido etc Vintage Cromwel spring watch bracelet

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