Vintage Orator Triple calendars Moonphase watch made for the Chinese markets

This is a vintage Orator Triple calendars moonphase watch made for the Chinese markets. The dial is written in Chinese characters as well as the day and dates are in Chinese.

古董1940-50s年代瑞士Orator 月相表

Rolex 6202 Turn O Graph

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph reference 6202 is a watch of immense historical significance, often overshadowed by the legendary models it helped spawn. It's a true "missing link" in the Rolex catalog.

The "Father" of Two Icons

The most critical thing to understand about the ref. 6202 is that it was the first Rolex Oyster chronometer wristwatch to feature a rotating bezel. This single innovation laid the groundwork for two of the most famous watch families in the world:

1. The Rolex Submariner: The 6202 directly evolved into the Submariner ref. 6204/6205 just a year later.

2. The Rolex GMT-Master: The "Turn-O-Graph" name was later used for a Datejust model with a rotating bezel, which was the basis for the first GMT-Master ref. 6542.

Key Features and Specifications of the Ref. 6202

· Reference Number: 6202

· Production Year: 1953 (making it one year older than the first Submariner).

· Case: 36mm stainless steel Oyster case. This is the same size as the contemporary Datejust and Explorer.

· The Bezel: This is the star of the show.

  · It's a bidirectional rotating bezel (it could turn both clockwise and counter-clockwise).

  · It featured a black bakelite (plastic) insert with a red triangle and 15-minute numerals. This is the same fragile material used on the first GMT-Masters.

  · The bezel was functional, intended for timing events, calculating speed, or any other elapsed-time measurement.

· Dial: Typically a black "glossy gilt" dial. The printing was in gold, applied over a glossy black lacquer background. Common configurations included:

  · "Officially Certified Chronometer" text at the bottom.

  · "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" on the dial (it did not yet have the "Submariner" name).

  · Gilt "Mercedes" hands and a "pencil" or "lollipop" seconds hand.

· Movement: Automatic Caliber A.260 (or A.296). A high-quality, chronometer-grade movement but not the later, more robust Caliber 1030 used in the first Submariners.

· Crystal: Plexiglass (acrylic).

· Bracelet: Likely offered on a riveted Oyster bracelet or a leather strap.

The Historical Context and Confusion

The story of the 6202 is complex and intertwined with the birth of the Submariner:

· The "Submariner Before the Submariner": When the 6202 was released in 1953, the name "Submariner" did not appear on the dial. It was marketed as a versatile sports watch for professionals and the general public. Its 100m water resistance and rotating bezel made it a natural for diving, even if it wasn't exclusively a dive watch.

· The Arrival of the Submariner: In 1954, Rolex introduced the reference 6204 and 6205, which were nearly identical to the 6202 but were now officially named "Submariner" on the dial. The key differences were minor, like the movement (Caliber 1030) and slightly improved water resistance on some models.

· The Name Lives On: The "Turn-O-Graph" name didn't disappear. In the late 1950s, Rolex repurposed it for a new model based on the Datejust (ref. 1625 and others), which featured a rotating bezel and became famously known as the "Thunderbird" after the U.S. Air Force demonstration squadron adopted it.

Why is the Rolex 6202 So Collectible?

1. Progenitor Status: It is the absolute beginning of the line for both the Submariner and the functional rotating bezel on a Rolex Oyster.

2. Rarity: It was produced for a very short period (only about a year) before being replaced by the named Submariner models. Finding a genuine, unmolested 6202 is extremely difficult.

3. Historical Significance: Owning a 6202 is like owning a piece of watchmaking history. It represents a pivotal moment of innovation at Rolex.

Comparison: Turn-O-Graph 6202 vs. First Submariner (6204/6205)

Feature Rolex Turn-O-Graph 6202 (1953) Rolex Submariner 6204/6205 (1954)

Dial Text "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" "Submariner"

Bezel Bidirectional, Bakelite Insert Bidirectional, Bakelite Insert

Movement Caliber A.260 / A.296 Caliber 1030

Water Resistance ~100m / 330ft 100m (6204) / 200m (6205)

Status The Prototype / Pre-Submariner The First Official Submariner

Conclusion

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 is not just a watch; it's an origin story. It's the foundational model upon which Rolex built its entire tool-watch dynasty. For serious collectors, it represents the holy grail of vintage Rolex sports models—a rare and historically pivotal timepiece that marks the dawn of the Submariner era.

Rolex ref 3265 hand wind watch with subsidiary seconds from 1954

This is a rare early Rolex small three-hand manual-winding watch the ref. 3265. It features a rare cylindrical case, cut from a cylindrical tube into a circular cross-section, with straight lugs. The dial is solid-colored. The crown emblem and hour markers are meticulously embossed, cleverly avoiding overlap with the small seconds hand. This highly original watch features a rare and minimalist mechanical construction.

The case boasts exquisite proportions and sharp angles. This precious Rolex cylindrical case retains its original proportions. The dial has aged and the warm cream color lends it a vintage feel. It is equipped with the Caliber 710, a cornerstone of this generation of movements. With a power reserve of 45 hours, this is a refined vintage Rolex watch suitable for everyday wear. The watch was previously selling in US and some how ended in Hong Kong.

J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era

This is a J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era. I first say this watch model at the Good Old Days antqiue watch shop at Lucky Plaza in 1987-88 when I first started watch collection. I have gave it a missed as I was focusing on Rolex Vintage bubbleback then. After 37 years, I have finally got one for old time sake.

1. J.W. Benson - The Maker : This is a key part of the watch's prestige.

· Reputation: J.W. Benson was a highly respected London-based watch and clock maker, founded in 1749. They were a "Purveyor to the Royal Household," meaning they supplied goods to the British Royal Family, a mark of exceptional quality and reputation.

· Quality: Benson was known for producing high-grade, precision instruments. Their military watches would have been built to withstand harsh conditions and keep accurate time, which was crucial for coordination in warfare.

2. "Trench Watch" - The Military Context : This is the historical heart of the watch. Trench watches, also called "wristlets" in their day, were a transitional style from the pocket watch.

· Origin: During World War I (1914-1918), soldiers found pocket watches impractical in the trenches. They began fitting them into crude metal cups with wire lugs and strapping them to their wrists for quick time-checking.

· Standardized Features: Watchmakers like Benson soon produced dedicated trench watches with:

  · Luminous Numerals: Radium-based paint on the hands and numerals for reading in the dark. 

  · Porcelain Enamel Dials: White, highly legible dials that were resistant to moisture and corrosion. Many featured a "shrapnel guard," a raised, curved piece of glass over the crystal.

  · Wire Lugs: The early, distinctive style of lugs that were soldered onto a converted pocket watch case.

  · Crown at 3 O'Clock: This was the new standard, moving away from the pocket watch's crown at 12 o'clock.

3. Silver Case - The Material. A silver case signifies a higher-quality timepiece, likely intended for an officer.

· Officer's Watch: While some trench watches were base metal, a silver case was more expensive and durable, often purchased by officers.

· Hallmarks: This is crucial. Inside the case back, you should find British Hallmarks. These will tell you:

  · The Assay Office: A leopard's head for London.

  · The Date Letter: A specific letter in a font/shield that denotes the year it was assayed.

  · The Maker's Mark: Benson's mark (likely "J.W.B" within a shield).

  · The Silver Standard: The lion passant (for .925 sterling silver).

    These hallmarks can precisely date your watch to a specific year, confirming its Art Deco era origin.

4. Cushion Case - The Form. The cushion case is a quintessential shape of the era.

· Design Evolution: It was a natural evolution from the round pocket watch, squaring off the edges to create a more modern, geometric form that sat well on the wrist.

· Art Deco Connection: The geometric cushion shape is a classic Art Deco motif, bridging the gap between the ornate Edwardian styles and the sleek, machine-age aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s.

5. Art Deco Era - The Design Period : The Art Deco period (roughly 1920-1939) perfectly overlaps with the later years of the trench watch's popularity and its evolution into the modern wristwatch.

· Stylistic Influence: On a watch, Art Deco is characterized by:

  · Geometric Shapes: The cushion case itself.

  · Stepped Designs: Cases or lugs with layered, stepped profiles.

  · Elegant Typography: Numerals that are more stylized and linear than their earlier, more ornate counterparts.

  · Contrast: Bold, legible designs with high contrast.

This is a truly special and collectible watch with a story spanning from the trenches of Europe to the jazz-age elegance of the Art Deco period.A rare early example of a ‘waterproof’ watch designed by Francois Borgel and retailed by JW Benson. A striking similarity to the cushion Rolex Oyster watch of the same period! 

Seiko 5625-7070 Gold cap Hi Beat

Seiko 5625-7070 Gold cap Hi Beat

This watch, produced around the 1970s, is a key model in Seiko's history and is now very popular among vintage watch collectors.

Watch Basic Information

· Model: 5625-7070

· Series: Seiko 5

· Production Year: Circa 1970s

· Movement: Seiko 5625 Automatic

· This is a very reliable and durable movement.

· Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

· Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Appearance and Design Features

1. Iconic Case: The classic 1970s "abalone" case, with its rounded lines and a strong, one-piece design, is highly recognizable.

2. Dial: Typically silver or dark gray, with distinctive hand and hour marker designs, it exudes the rugged style of a tool watch.

Porsche design Indicator 6910.10.40.1149

 Porsche Design Indicator Watch 6910.10.40.1149 .

The INDICATOR is world first in mechanical watches. Not a watch created with just its external appearance in mind, but the fruit of functional internal design. Their perfect mastery of the technique gave the in-house designers total freedom to explore every imaginable option of form, colour and material.

First turns of the wheel
At the end of 2000, Ernst F. SEYR, president and managing director of Eterna SA (owned by Porsche since 1995) suggested the idea of a super chronograph by Porsche Design/Eterna. As an amateur pilot fascinated by mechanics, the new head of the group knew how hard it can be to use a classic chronograph in real-life, and how stress, poor light or vibration can make them almost impossible to read.

The next step from there was to envisage the development of a real instrument that could be used as a chronometer at a glance without having to decipher minute auxiliary dials.

That’s where the INDICATOR came in. At the end of 2000, Porsche Design gave engineers the go-ahead for development, and entrusted a feasibility study of the INDICATOR project to the Master watchmaker Paul Gerber. A year later, a dozen engineers, technicians and watchmakers from Eterna undertook the development of the revolutionary chronograph’s first prototypes and limited series production. After three years of relentless effort, the first INDICATOR saw the light of day.

Perfectly legible in any circumstances
The finely studied detail of the dial and hands on the INDICATOR is designed for perfect legibility whatever the circumstances.

The semi-skeletal hands, coated in superluminova, obscure the main indicators as little as possible to give a precise reading, even in poor viewing conditions. The figures and hours are also coated in superluminova.

Design directly inspired by the Porsche Carrera GT
The slightly domed 42mm sapphire crystal, in built motion work, clear and simple dial structure, easy-to-handle elongated push buttons with transverse grooves in Porsche drive mechanism, and 9mm screwed down winding crown… all of the elements of the new Porsche design are reminiscent of the Carrera GT. On the back of the case, a sapphire crystal base secured by six magnificent screws lets you admire the winding crown’s splendid rotor in the form of a Carrera GT wheel rim. The titanium rotor wheel offers an excellent resistance/volume ratio, and the solid red gold exterior rotor supplies the requisite energy to the INDICATOR’S four spring drums.

The INDICATOR is fitted on a solid black rubber strap that has the Carrera GT’s Michelin tyre tread on its inner surface. Grooves on the strap’s outer surface help reduce perspiration and improve comfort and ease of wear. The strap is fastened with double tongue buckle, and finished with two elegant titanium loops.

Technical details
The calibre that drives the INDICATOR was developed from an ETA base. As well as a new main plate and house-manufactured bridges, it incorporates over 400 new components in the cage. A real mechanical masterpiece, it comprises almost 800 pieces in all.

This plate of this impressive movement is 36mm in diameter, which is the right vital dimension for good legibility of the digital display. Four spring drums provide it with energy. The first drives the basic movement. There are three others (whose force is controlled by three centrifugal brakes) for the display mechanisms’ chrono-digital functions. The indicator disks are commuted in two tenths of a second and returned to zero by an “engine drive.”

In other words, they are rest to zero the classic way, by a simple action on the lower push button.

Three primary functions:

[1] Chronograph indicator
Essential function of the INDICATOR, situated at 3 o’clock. Iindicated mechanically in digital mode by rotating disks (hours from zero to nine, in units and the ten minutes). Seconds count indicated in analogue display from the centre.) After nine hours 59 minutes, like the flag-out warning for flight navigators, the “out of service “signal appears in the hour window.

[2] Power reserve indicator
The design of the common power reserve display for all functions is protected by a special patent. The INDICATOR’S power reserve shows how much residual power remains in the four spring drums relative to the state of activation of the four winding springs. The colour-coded display enables immediate reading of the watch’s power reserve.

[3] Functions control indicator
Porsche Design envisaged an innovative functional control with the basic calibre. The movement function is controlled second by second with a new “mechanical flash display. Three dial windows show a disk with red and white segments whose alternating colours indicate the movement is working as it should. With this new style of display, you can see immediately whether the instrument is ready to fulfil all functions.

The INDICATOR comes in two versions, natural grey titanium or titanium with black finish. The exterior measurements and complex mechanics of this monster of technology are frankly impressive: 49 mm diameter, 18mm thick, water resistant to 50 meters. Produced in very limited edition the INDICATOR is already an exceptional piece that only very few, very rich enthusiasts will ever have the chance of getting hold of. Even they will have to sign up to join the waiting list at one of the rare retailers Porsche Design has selected to represent their new watch making jewel.

The new Porsche Design INDICATOR is an exceptional piece in every sense of the word.

Gigantic at first glance, its titanium structure and rubber strap make it very light and agreeable to the touch. Its imposing outline becomes almost natural when strapped to the wrist with the virile double tongue strap buckle. From then on, the size is less noticeable. The watch, on the other hand, becomes an object of contemplation. The simplicity of the dial, the subtleties of the counters and see-through hands are a real pleasure. A spectacle concentrated into 49mm diameter! A watch you immediately feel at ease with. A time-piece designed to go adventuring with you with absolutely no malfunction, in short, zero error equipment. Though maybe there’s just one small problem. 

Source : https://www.watchprosite.com/collectors-market/fs-porsche-design-p6910-indicator/712.570271.3532871/

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/porsche-design-indicator-watch-available-on-james-list/

Vintage Cloisonné dial watches

 Vintage Cloisonné dial watches