The rise of Rolex GMT ref 16753

The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16753 (the two-tone "Root Beer" with a glossy lacquer dial) saw a significant rise in popularity and value, but its journey has been a story of going from overlooked to highly sought-after. 

The Reference 16753, released in the late 1970s till 1988 provided a fresh new look to the GMT line. The combination of steel and gold perfectly encapsulated the preppy stye that prevailed in that period. Moreover, this shifted Rolex into the luxury sphere, which established an upward sales trend that infused much needed cash flow into the manufacture.

Visually and technically, the 16753 stands out from other iterations of the GMT-Master. The glossy dial and colorful bezel give the watch a sleek appearance that’s magnified by the gold detailing on the crown, bezel, bracelet and handset.

When did the Rolex 16753 get popular among collectors?

The 16753's popularity is a relatively recent phenomenon, primarily taking off in the early to mid-2010s.

For context:

· Production Era (1980-1988): When it was new, the two-tone "Root Beer" was often seen as a flashy, less "serious" alternative to the all-stainless steel professional models like the 16750. It was popular with a certain affluent, aspirational clientele but not with purist tool-watch collectors.

· The 1990s and 2000s: Vintage collecting was dominated by military-issued watches, "Paul Newman" Daytonas, and stainless steel sports models. Two-tone watches were deeply out of fashion and could often be found for a fraction of the price of their steel counterparts.

· The Shift (Early 2010s): Several factors converged to spark interest in the 16753 and other "neo-vintage" references:

  1. Rarity of Steel Models: As prices for vintage steel GMTs (like 1675s and 16750s) skyrocketed, collectors began looking for the "next big thing" that was still relatively affordable.

  2. The "John Player Special" (JPS) Nickname: The brown and gold color scheme earned it the nickname "John Player Special" after the famous F1 racing livery. This created a cool, motorsport-connected story that resonated with collectors.

  3. 80s Nostalgia: The watch is a perfect artifact of 1980s design—bold, luxurious, and confident. As 80s aesthetics came back into style, so did this watch.

  4. Unique Aesthetic: Collectors began to appreciate its distinctiveness. It doesn't look like any other GMT. The chocolate brown bezel and warm tones are incredibly versatile and unique.

  5. Matte vs. Glossy Dial Transition: The 16753 represents the very end of the matte dial era (early examples) and the transition to glossy lacquer dials (later examples). This nuance became interesting to collectors who enjoy tracking these evolutions.

When was the peak in prices?

The absolute peak for the ref. 16753, and for the entire vintage watch market, was 2021 through early 2022.

This period was characterized by:

· COVID-19 Market Frenzy: A perfect storm of low interest rates, government stimulus, a hot stock market, and people being stuck at home with money to spend and a desire to treat themselves. This led to an unprecedented boom in luxury goods, especially watches.

· Explosion of Social Media: Platforms like Instagram and YouTube created massive hype around specific models. The "Root Beer" was a photogenic star.

· Broadening of Tastes: The collecting community fully embraced two-tone and gold watches, shedding the old stigma. The 16753 was a prime beneficiary.

During this peak, prices for clean, complete examples of the ref. 16753 with box and papers easily reached $18,000 - $24,000+ USD, with exceptional examples breaking even higher. This was a massive appreciation from just a few years prior.

Current Market Status (2024-25)

The market has corrected significantly since the peak of 2022. While still far more valuable than it was a decade ago, prices have settled into a more rational range.

· Current Value: As of 2024/5, a good to very good example of a ref. 16753 typically trades in the $12,000 - $17,000 USD ( HK$93,650 - $132,670) range, heavily dependent on condition, dial type (matte vs. glossy), and service history.

· It's a "Neo-Vintage" Star: The 16753 is now firmly established as a cornerstone of the highly desirable "neo-vintage" category (roughly 1980s-1990s watches). It's no longer a sleeper but a recognized and respected model with a dedicated following.

In summary: The Rolex 16753 got popular in the early 2010s as collectors sought affordable alternatives to vintage steel models and embraced its unique look. It reached its absolute price peak during the 2021-2022 market frenzy and has since settled into a strong, but more reasonable, price point as a modern classic. 

I have been lucky to be able to source for an ugly Rolex GMT ref 16753 at a relatively good price and after restorationand changing of parts, my total costs is around  HK$73,800 (US$9460).