The Timeless Elegance of the Tissot Navigator 4002-50: A 1950s Masterpiece
The Tissot Navigator 4002-50 is not just a watch; it is a piece of horological history. This exquisite timepiece is an 18k gold case world time watch, created to commemorate Tissot’s 100th anniversary in 1953. The steel version of the Tissot Navigator was first created in 1951.
Unlike the limited edition from 2013 or the 1990 reissued version, the original 1950s Tissot Navigator watches were available in stainless steel (ref 4002-1) , 14K gold capped (ref 4002-2), and 18K solid gold (ref 4003-5).
In June 1953, Tissot released the 18k gold Navigator 4002-50 to mark its 100th anniversary. This model is a large automatic wristwatch with indications for 24-world locations, making it a pioneering piece in the realm of world time watches. The original Tissot Navigator watches were priced between $2000 to $6,000, depending on the condition and metal used. The steel model reference is 4002-1, gold cap is 4002-2, solid gold 4002-5.
In 2013, Tissot released a tribute to its Navigator World Timer, bringing renewed attention to the original 1953 vintage version. This tribute highlighted the unique features of the vintage world time watch, such as the rotating disc with 24 cities, each representing a world time zone. The gold-colored 24-hour ring allows the time to be read in all 24 time zones simultaneously. Tissot moved the hour numerals to the outer bezel, creating more space on the dial and maintaining its uncluttered and legible design.
The Tissot Navigator 4002-50 features a two-body construction with a 36 mm diameter circular plain gold case. The case includes straight down-turned lugs and a wide inclined bezel engraved with a 12-hour division, alternating dart and Arabic numerals. The snap-on plain case back is engraved with "02/100" and inside, it is engraved with ref. "OR 4001" and signed "Chs Tissot & Fils."
Under the hesalite glass, the watch boasts a mint and attractive, original finish, silvered dial. The dial features applied gold dart indexes and radial Arabic numerals for the 24-hour minute division. The inner rotating silvered disc bears the names of 24 towns. The luminous blued steel Dauphine hands and gilt sweep second hands add to the watch's elegance. The dial is signed "Tissot, Swiss Made."
I first saw this watch in 1988 during my University days in a vintage watch shop at Lucky Plaza. Unfortunately, I couldn’t afford to buy it at the time. However, the memory of its elegance and craftsmanship stayed with me, fueling my appreciation for vintage timepieces.
The Tissot Navigator 4002-50 is powered by a caliber 28.5-N-21T, rhodium-plated, with 17 jewels. This automatic movement with a bumper is very similar in design, layout, and finishing to Omega’s early bumper automatic movements. Based on Tissot’s first automatic calibre 28.1, launched in 1944, caliber 28.5-N21 features an additional pusher to allow the local time to be set. The dial, case, and movement are all signed.
The world time watch is powered by the in-house manual-wound bumper movement caliber Tissot 28.5-21 with a sweep second hand. When the crown is pulled out, the time can be set. The city ring rotates with the hands. If you press the small button at two o'clock and then turn the crown to set the time, the city ring does not move, allowing you to set the current time zone.
The Tissot Navigator 4002-50 is a timeless piece that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship of the 1950s. Its historical significance, intricate design, and limited production make it a valuable addition to any watch collection. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a novice enthusiast, the Tissot Navigator 4002-50 is a watch that will continue to captivate and inspire for generations to come. For me, this was a lucky find as it was sold earlier on but the collector has decided to bring back to the shop to trade for a gold bubbleback.
There are some dials variations in the cities listed on the dials:
YUKON TY & CHICAGO
YUKON TY & CHICAGO
JUNEAU & MEXICO
JUNEAU & MEXICO
According to a fellow watch collector Cazalea, Yukon Ty would be Yukon Territory (Canada), before Alaska became a US state in 1959 afterwards they switched to Juneau
Red Printed Cities are US Time Zones Indicating a USA Distribution
1990 reissue Tissot Navigator World Time Z197
TISSOT Navigator Worldtimer, Ref. Z197 / T30.2.469.12
The key differences between the 1990 reissue vs 1953 vesion are :
1. Stainless steel, gold plated for the 1990 version vs solid gold 1953 version
2. Automatic-movement, calibre ETA2893-2 versus Tissot 28,5 - 21 bumper automatic
3. Limited edition of only 2200 pieces worldwide versus 100 units
4. 1990 versions lacks the adjustments button at 2 oclock position (the world time setting is done by the crown instead of the pusher at 2h)
5. 1990 version with T Swiss Made T versus Swiss Made
No adjustment button at the side
STainless steel back
For Easy reference:
No comments:
Post a Comment