Friday 19 July 2024

Baume & Mercier automatic moonphase watch

Baume & Mercier automatic triple calendars boysize moonphase watch from the 1950s with Caliber Bidynator 693. Many of the moonphase watches from the era are hand wind watch.








Thursday 18 July 2024

Nivada Grenchen Leonardo Da Vinci world time watch

This is an interesting Nivada Gretchen World time watch. Nivada is a long-standing Swiss watch brand that was founded in 1926. In 1930, they were one of the first companies to produce automatic watches, and in 1950 they successfully produced waterproof watches and watch lines that worked well in extreme weather.

- In 1940, Movado sued Nivada because the brand name was too similar, so Nivada took on Croton as a distributor. After that, the Nivada watches sometimes featured both the Nivada and Croton branding.

- Nivada continued to develop strongly and is considered one of the prestigious Swiss watch brands, with a presence in the United States.

- In 1969, Nivada crafted a GMT watch to honor the "almipotent [sic] genius of mankind" - likely a reference to the renowned polymath Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519).












Wednesday 17 July 2024

Nivada Grenchen depthomatic diver automatic ref. 104 : part 2



I got interested in timepieces worn by the Calypso crew during my times in Bangkok from 2015-17, where I started to collect the ZRC diver watches, Titus Calypsomatic, Droz super compressor etc. I only got to see the Nivada Depthomatic in 2021. Before that, I had no idea that Nivada came up with the first watch with an integrated depth gauge back in 1964.

While servicing my newly acquired Nivada Grenchen depthomatic diver automatic ref. 104, I saw another black dial Nivada Grenchen depthomatic diver automatic at Carson shop. This looks like an earlier version. As a watch collector, one will need to build up one‘s collection. However, I must admit that it is pure luck that I have come across these watches as their quantities are really small and serching throgh the inter, only a hand full of these watches are availables as these were really a tool watch made for diving, whicvh is a really niche sports, limited to a few.












This watch is slightly bigger then the telephone dial Nivada as it’s also most 39mm




Finally able to find the 21mm straps














Monday 15 July 2024

Nivada Grenchen depthomatic diver automatic ref. 104 : part 1

Nivada Grenchen, a historic Swiss watchmaker, was founded in 1926 in Grenchen, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality, reliable timepieces. Over the decades, Nivada Grenchen has introduced several iconic models, with the Depthomatic being one of the most celebrated. 

It is a remarkable timepiece that has captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for its innovative design and historical significance, this watch is a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the Nivada Grenchen brand. In this article, we will explore the rich history, unique features, and enduring appeal of the Nivada Grenchen Depthomatic.This model stood out for its innovative design and advanced features, making it a favorite among watch collectors and diving enthusiasts.

Unique Features of the Nivada Grenchen Depthomatic : Built-in Depth Gauge

The Depthomatic was the only skin diver watch with a built-in depth gauge at the time. The depth measurement works through a mechanical system involving a water tube around the watch glass. During a dive, water enters the tube via a tiny hole at 3 o'clock. With increasing depth and water pressure, the tube fills with water, allowing the wearer to monitor their depth up to 660 feet. The notch in the side of the crystal near 3 o'clock provides access to a chamber along the outer edge, displaying the depth at all times.

Color-Changing Water Tube

To improve readability, the water in the tube changes to a red hue as depth increases. The red scale on the dial shows the depth up to 300 feet, making it easy for divers to monitor their depth accurately.

Rotating Bezel

The external metal bezel rotates in either direction to record elapsed time, which is useful in underwater diving applications. This feature was even recommended by the famous Swiss Underwater Sports Association for diving.

The overall design of the Depthomatic was both innovative and contemporary for its era. The watch features a stunning original tropical dial with luminous "telephone" hour markers and red depth indications. The original luminous hands with incredible yellow lume, along with the original red sweeping-seconds hand, are designed to be highly legible.

The Nivada Grenchen Depthomatic is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of innovation, elegance, and history. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a watch enthusiast, this timepiece is a must-have. Its timeless design, combined with its reliability and historical significance, makes it a valuable addition to any collection. Invest in a Nivada Grenchen Depthomatic and own a piece of horological history.

This Novada grenchen depthomatic diver automatic ref. 104 has a stunning original tropical  dial with luminous "telephone" hour markers and red depth indications; original luminous hands with incredible yellow lume; original red sweeping-seconds hand designed to be highly legible; oversized 38mm unpolished stainless steel case with rotating bezel that displays elapsed time (i.e. during dives); innovative original acrylic crystal contains outer chamber for instant depth rating based upon water pressure. Interesting highlights of this watch are the Telephone Dial, Lollipop Hour hand. 

I have finally found one Nivada Depthomatic. This Nivada Depthomatic is still in good overall condition. As these watch was tool watch that were really used under water back then, it is a wonder that some specimens have survived to this day. Even though I love restoration of vintage time pieces, the previous owner has already replaced the watch with a new depth gauge crystal in April 2020.

The watch has a real vintage character due to the beautiful patina in the original radium luminescent material giving it a crème brûlée colour. The dial bears the inscription "Skin Diver" and "Waterproof" at 6 o'clock.The movement of this watch is the automatic caliber ETA 2451.






The watch is quite large at 38.1 mm in diameter 

As can see per below photo,  I have enquired about the watch since June 2021 on instagram but the owner didnt reply. I have waited for a long 36 months before the watch is available for purchase.





In general, there are two types: namely oone with teh Telephone dial and another with 12,3,6, '9 numerals. Other versions from the internet :












I have sent my watch to my technician KK for servicing




Finally fully serviced :













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紅旗小字白漆表

最近的最愛是白漆表,这是一款带有”小标志” 的简单白色小字白漆表

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