Thursday, 26 October 2023

Rolex Athlete ref 4127 from 1942

Rolex Oyster Athlete ref 4127 serial # 2132xx circa 1942. It has a size 32mm case with wide concave bezel, straight extended lugs, and screw down case back and period screw down crown. Lugs size is 17mm. The Rolex Athlete watch was produced in early 1940s and there are two versions : one with small seconds (using cal 700?) and one with centre/sweep seconds (cal 710). 

There are  three different models that used the similar design case design in the 1940s: 
1. the 4127 (manual wind), mainly in stainless steel;
2. the 3548 (perpetual) often called the Empire, which is bigger in size and  are in both steel and yellow gold
3. Ladies watch variant (manual wind). 

Most of the 4127 comes with Mercedes and pencil hands looks in full numeral or alternative numerals and some rare ones come with California dials. There are many redial watches. Most of the dials that looks to be original does not have the Rolex coronet. Just Rolex Oyster Athlete in the same font. Some dials with ‘precision’. It is Powered by 17 jewel manual wind calibre 10 1/2 hunter movement. I am very glad to be able to find this Athlete as it was quite rare in the 1990-2000s. This watch has brought back fond memories of my early years of watch collection

Rolex Athlete in steel ref 4127

Rolex Empire ref 3548

The above is a Rolex Empire in gold ref 3548 (perpetual) with a cylinder style case , which looks similar to the Rolex Athlete, but its case is much thicker as it has an automatic movement . The ref 3548 is quite rare owing to its design and I have not come across another after I have bought one in the late 1980s. The watch was priced the same as the `Rolex Prince jump hour at that time and I have chosen this Rolex Empire.







It is interesting to note that these watches were expensive during the earlier days






Wednesday, 25 October 2023

Rolex ref 3599 (from 1941) hooded bubbleback 勞力士泡泡背

Launched in 1931 as the world’s first reliable self-winding wristwatch, the initial version of the Rolex Oyster perpetual is affectionately known as ‘bubbleback’ 泡泡背today by collectors because of its bulbous case back. The case back on a “bubbleback” is significantly larger than case backs from other watches during the same era to allow the space for the winding rotor and self-winding module on the movement. Therefore, Rolex’s iconic “Bubbleback” gets its name from the protruding rounded case back designed to accommodate their patented self-winding movement and rotor. 

The hooded version of the bubbleback was designed as a variation in the 1940s to ‘re-invent’ the case design but was unable to revive sales and soon ceased production. Some said the hooded bubbleback were produced for the US market. Amongst one of the most sought after variants of the legendary “Bubbleback” series, the hooded is the rarest examples of the model available today. I was very fortunate to add another Rolex hooded bubbleback watch over the weekend. I have to trade away a Vacheron Constantin Le Coultre mystery dial.


As mentioned earlier, the first Bubbleback models were introduced in the early 1930s and production continued for approximately 20 years. Similar to the standard “Bubbleback” watch, which came in many variations, the Rolex “hooded” examples had various finishes on the hoods from smooth ref 3065 to ribbed, engine-turned to vertical stripping and from steel to yellow gold and rose gold ref 3159 and to scallop hoods ref 3801. This design concept made a visual impact, and as the present model demonstrates, the watch grows in size and presence, rendering a striking appearance. I have happy to be able to collect 6 of these hooded bubbleback.


This Rolex reference 3599 hooded bubbleback is defined by its unusual case design featuring a flat cylindrical bezel of considerable width and “hoods” covering the open space normally found in between the lugs instead of a usual beveled edge bezel. It is a standard 32mm diameter. White dial with closed minute track, hours minutes and seconds at center. Plexiglas crystal, steel case back. Movement, case back and dial signed. 1942 This is unusual ROLEX Oyster Perpetual "OVETTE". Hooded Bubbleback Reference 3599 made for the European markets. Normally, the Rolex hooded Bubbleback were made for the US market. Early Rolex was very adventurous in their design and use of materials.




Normally, the ref 3599 is an all steel hooded bubbleback watch but this one has a steel case with hoods with gold striations at 6 and 12 o'clock. The two tone hoods remind us of the Rolex Prince Zebra two tone colours aka tiger straps, making it a rather unique watch. 





Comparison between the Rolex Prince two tone zebra and the Rolex hooded




The watch has appeared in an overseas auction 


Latest update:

Just sent the watch for a thorough service and cleaning.








Saturday, 14 October 2023

Rolex 18k gold 1625 Turn O Graph

The Evolution of Rolex Turn-O-Graph: A Journey Through Time

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph holds a significant place in the history of Rolex watches. It not only marks the birth of the first Rolex tool watch but also introduces the concept of a rotating bezel to the world of horology. In this article, we will take a journey through time, exploring the evolution of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph and its impact on the watch industry.

The Birth of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph made its debut in 1953 with the reference 6202. It was the first serially produced Rolex watch to feature a rotating bezel. This innovative feature allowed wearers to easily track time intervals, making it a practical tool for various activities. The ability to time anything from long-distance calls to automobile races to boiling an egg earned the watch its name, Turn-O-Graph.

## Integration into the Datejust Collection

Following the success of the initial Turn-O-Graph model, Rolex introduced the reference 6309. This model was a part of the Datejust collection and featured a rotating bezel made of the same material as the case. This integration allowed Rolex to differentiate its product categories and prevent competition within its range. The Turn-O-Graph became a more elegant wristwatch option for businessmen, while the Submariner catered to divers.

The Thunderbird Connection

In 1956, Rolex created a special variant of the Turn-O-Graph, known as the reference 6609, to honor the Thunderbirds, a U.S. Air Force squadron known for their aerial demonstrations. This model was based on the 36mm Oyster Case of the Datejust but featured an 18k gold case and a rotating bezel. Rolex offered this new reference to the Thunderbirds, giving it the nickname by which it is best known in the United States.

## The Transition to Reference 1625

Rolex discontinued the reference 6609 in 1959 and replaced it with the reference 1625. This model was produced from 1959 to 1977 and was available in two variants. The first variant featured a two-tone steel and yellow gold construction, similar to its predecessor. The second variant featured a steel case with a white gold bezel, offering a more refined aesthetic.

## Collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph

Collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph can be a rewarding pursuit for watch enthusiasts. The four main references, including the 6202, 6309, 6609, and 1625, represent different milestones in the evolution of this iconic timepiece. Each reference has its own unique characteristics and design elements that make it desirable to collectors.

The reference 6202 holds historical significance as the first Rolex tool watch with a rotating bezel. Its rarity and pioneering status make it a highly sought-after piece. The reference 6309, on the other hand, showcases the integration of the Turn-O-Graph into the Datejust collection, offering a more refined and elegant look.

The reference 6609, with its 18k gold case and connection to the Thunderbirds, carries a special charm and is often referred to by its nickname. Lastly, the reference 1625, available in two-tone steel and yellow gold or steel with a white gold bezel, offers a unique combination of elegance and sportiness.

Conclusion

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph has left an indelible mark on the world of horology. From its humble beginnings as the first Rolex tool watch with a rotating bezel to its integration into the prestigious Datejust collection, the Turn-O-Graph has evolved and adapted to the changing tastes and demands of watch enthusiasts.

Whether you are captivated by the historical significance of the reference 6202, the elegance of the reference 6309, the connection to the Thunderbirds with the reference 6609, or the unique design of the reference 1625, collecting the Rolex Turn-O-Graph is a journey that spans decades and showcases the mastery of Rolex craftsmanship.

Embrace the legacy of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph and embark on your own quest to collect these remarkable timepieces. Each reference tells a story and represents a milestone in the evolution of Rolex watches. Let the Turn-O-Graph be a symbol of your passion for horology and a testament to the enduring legacy of Rolex.The Rolex ref 1625 Turn O Graph is often called Thunderbird by some collectors. In Hong Kong, it is called 爬山虎. Most of the ref 1625 is in steel with yellow gold or white gold bezel. There is also 18k version. In the past, my preference has been with steel watches but these few years, I have started to collect more solid gold watches as they are rarer and the overall conditions tend to be better.

Below is a solid gold Ref 1625 from the year 1962. The early 1625 has the pointed hour and minute hands. The overall condition is good as people tended to take care of their gold watches better then steel watches.





Comparison between a steel & gold versus solid gold 1625




Rolex 6309 & 1625 gold and bicolor 




Wednesday, 11 October 2023

Sherpa Divette diver ref 110/116 from 1958

The Sherpa line from Enicar was introduced in 1956; it was inspired by a series of explorations happening around the world, especially after an Enicar was used in a summit of Mount Everest. There are several models within the Dive family starting with the Dive 600 model, which appeared around 1958. 

This Sherpa Divette is the first generation the Dive models from 1958, as seen in the bold luminous indexes, rotating black bezel with  several round markers at the top 12, 3,6,9 positions, and the unusual center seconds hand. 







The glossy black gilt dial with elongated indexes gives another level of vintage flare. 




The reference 100/116 is fitted with a rotor caliber with 17 jewels that was introduced in Q2, 1958. The Divette measures at 36mm, but the relatively wide-set flat bezel gives it a larger appearance than its actual size













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Vintage watches with unique dials

I was a History & Political Science students and watches with special history deeply interest me. These are vintage watches with unique ...

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