Wednesday, 3 May 2023

237 years old Russian Reindeer leather (237 年曆史的俄羅斯馴鹿皮革)

Even though this is not a watch, i think its worth mentioning here. Lets start with a bit of histrory from the internet:

On December 10th 1786 a strong gale in the English Channel forced the Danish Brigantine the Metta Catharina von Flensburg to seek shelter in Plymouth Sound in south west England. The cargo was leather and hemp from St. Petersburg Russia bound for the port of Genoa. During the heavy storm the frigate broke anchor and was swept ashore and sank on the Cornish side of Plymouth Sound. All the crew made it safely to land but the ship and cargo were lost for more than 200 years. 

In 1973 divers from the Plymouth branch of the British sub -aqua club were searching for the wreck of H.M.S. Harwich which had foundered in 1691.  The search concentrated on the slopes of a sunken, prehistoric river valley below Battery Buoy which forms the deep-water channel between Drake’s Island and Cornwall.  In shallow water, about 500 yards from the shore at a depth of 30 metres, they found an encrusted ship’s bell.  It was lifted out and cleaned, enabling the wreck to be provisionally identified as the “Catharina von Flensburg”. found a ships bell 30 metres below the surface and it identified the vessel.   However, extensive research would be needed before the ship’s identity could be proved beyond doubt.

Hides recovered from the seabed. (Credits to the Hanger Project)

Flensburg City Museum confirmed that the vessel had been built in Flensburg fjord (then in Denmark) in 1782 and owned by Hinrick Lorck and Knut Andersen from then until 1786.  This short period of ownership suggests that the boat may have been wrecked in 1786.  Local archives from that year were searched and the full story of the last voyage of the brigantine was discovered in an article from the “Sherborne Mercury” of that year. 

Further underwater investigation revealed part of the rigging and then the cargo – bundles of hides littering the seabed, remarkably preserved after two hundred years immersion in black mud.  More may still be buried in the mud, their state of preservation improving in direct relation to the depth at which they are buried.  The hides vary in size, some as large as cattle, complete with head and tail and marked with the tanner’s initials.  

Investigation by the British Leather Manufacturers Research Association has confirmed that the leather is almost certainly reindeer tanned in the traditional Russian way of soaking in pits using willow bark and birch tar oil which gives it the characteristic aroma and ability to resist water.

Perfectly preserved underwater, it is a beautiful example of the bygone Russian tanning technique. Cured in baths of rye or oat flour and yeast then hand embossed with varying styles of cross hatching before being soaked in seal oil and birch tan oil, this technique could never be replicated and is lost to this day. The leather is marvellously supple and its durability has been enhanced by its two centuries of inundation in black mud.  The colour varies from a rich claret to a lighter sienna and most of the hides have a crossed hatched grain embossed by hand.  The same diced grain can be seen on the upholstery and bookbindings of the period, the famous “Russia” leather being renowned for its ability to resist water and repel insects. With the leather being in tight rolls helped to keep it from rotting away too.


As salvors in possession the divers were duty bound to trace the owners.  When it was determined that the wreck lay on the sea bed owned by the Duchy of Cornwall it became clear that the owner was the President of the British Sub Aqua Club, Prince Charles, Duke of Cornwall.  He waived his rights to the leather and, with the approval of an eminent archaeologist, it was decided to sell a limited number of the hides to a few selected traditional craftsmen to help fund the further excavation of the wreck. Over the years it has been used for a wide variety of special projects. 

Even though the leather was found in 1973 and even after cleaning and restoring the leather, they sat idle until 1986 when GJ Cleverley began making bespoke shoes from the legendary hides. I think I first heard of the news on the Russian Reindeer leather in the early 1990s when Filofax were made using these rare leather. During that time, being a new graduate, I would not be able to afford it.

Over the years, I have tried to reduce the number of items I collect besides vintage watches. However, there is an exception as these products have special meaning (the lost art of making Russian Reindeer leather) and being a ex-history student, the interesting historical significance of the product has given me added motivation to keep them. Below are some examples which I have managed to gather through out the years from overseas conisiting of two cross shoulder bag, one filiofax and one name card holders.



The leathers were sold at Sotheby for US$5250 excluding commission



The long leather wallet below is my latest acqusistion as I have always wanted to find a long wallet. Several years ago, I was looking at Cordovan waller but I didnt hunt for it actively. Most long wallets come with the zipper design which I dislikes. 

Lately, I have started to look for it again and I was hoping to find one in Russian Reindeer leather. I went to the GJ Cleverly website and notice that it was all sold. I have decided to email and asked it there is any that is any left in the storage and to my great surpise there is one more even though the web page has stated all sold. Without much hesistation, I called and confirmed the purchase and I am waiting ofr its arruval coming Friday 5th May 2023.

Below are the photos of the long wallet.














At the same time, I have also found a two fold wallet. Below a two fold wallets from the Great English Outdoors.

https://www.greatenglish.co.uk/product/russian-reindeer-leather-two-fold-wallet/

















Please read : Source of articles:

https://www.greatenglish.co.uk/2010/03/29/200-year-old-russian-reindeer-leather/

https://therake.com/stories/style/george-cleverley-rake-russian-hide-collection/


1786 年 12 月 10 日,英吉利海峽的一場強風迫使丹麥雙桅帆船 Metta Catharina von Flensburg 在英格蘭西南部的普利茅斯海峽尋求庇護。 貨物是從俄羅斯聖彼得堡運往熱那亞港的皮革和大麻。 在暴風雨中,護衛艦拋錨並被沖上岸,沉沒在普利茅斯灣的康沃爾一側。 所有船員都安全著陸,但船隻和貨物丟失了 200 多年。

1973 年,來自英國潛水俱樂部普利茅斯分部的潛水員正在尋找 H.M.S. 的殘骸。 Harwich 於 1691 年沈沒。搜索集中在 Battery Buoy 下方的史前河谷下沉的斜坡上,Battery Buoy 形成了德雷克島和康沃爾之間的深水航道。 在距離海岸約 500 碼、深度 30 米的淺水中,他們發現了一個鑲嵌的船鐘。 它被吊出並清理乾淨,使沉船暫時被確定為“Catharina von Flensburg”。 在水面以下 30 米處發現了一個船鐘,它確定了這艘船。 然而,在毫無疑問地證明這艘船的身份之前,還需要進行廣泛的研究。

弗倫斯堡市博物館證實,該船於 1782 年在弗倫斯堡峽灣(當時位於丹麥)建造,從那時起至 1786 年由 Hinrick Lorck 和 Knut Andersen 擁有。這一短暫的所有權表明該船可能在 1786 年失事。當地 搜索了當年的檔案,並在當年“Sherborne Mercury”的一篇文章中發現了雙桅帆船最後一次航行的完整故事。

進一步的水下調查揭示了部分索具,然後是貨物——成捆的獸皮散落在海床上,在浸入黑泥中 200 年後保存完好。 更多的可能仍然埋在泥裡,它們的保存狀態的改善與它們被埋的深度直接相關。 生皮大小不一,有些像牛一樣大,有頭有尾,並標有製革商的姓名首字母。

英國皮革製造商研究協會的調查證實,幾乎可以肯定,這種皮革是用傳統的俄羅斯方式用馴鹿鞣製而成,即使用柳樹皮和樺樹焦油在坑中浸泡,賦予皮革特有的香氣和防水能力。

它在水下保存完好,是古老的俄羅斯制革技術的典範。 在黑麥或燕麥粉和酵母浴中醃製,然後用不同風格的交叉影線手工壓花,然後浸泡在海豹油和樺木棕油中,這種技術永遠無法複製,至今失傳。 皮革非常柔軟,經過兩個世紀的黑泥淹沒,其耐用性得到了增強。 顏色從濃郁的紫紅色到淺褐色不等,大部分皮革都有手工壓印的交叉紋。 在那個時期的室內裝潢和書籍裝訂上可以看到同樣的顆粒狀紋理,著名的“俄羅斯”皮革以防水和驅蟲能力而聞名。 皮革緊緊地捲起來也有助於防止它腐爛。

作為擁有財產的救助者,潛水員有義務追踪所有者。 當確定沉船位於康沃爾公爵領地的海床上時,很明顯船主是英國 Sub Aqua 俱樂部主席康沃爾公爵查爾斯王子。 他放棄了對皮革的權利,並在一位著名考古學家的批准下,決定將有限數量的皮革出售給一些選定的傳統工匠,以資助進一步挖掘殘骸。 多年來,它已被廣泛用於各種特殊項目。 


Source : https://archive.org/details/industriesofruss01russuoft/page/94/mode/2up?view=theater

1. Russia leather.

 This article is prepared from all the above mentioned raw materials except calfskins. After washing and scraping, the hides are treated with ash. then washed, passed through the stamping mill, pared, pressed, tanned in weak liquor and then in ooze, and by sprinkling; it is either white, red or black. The best hides are used for the white leather which, when tanned, is smeared on the flesh side with a mixture of birch tar and seal grease. The red Russia leather is prepared in the same way, but when dried is coated with a solution of alum and dyed with red sandalwood. The black leather is dyed after tanning with some salts of iron and then smeared on the flesh side with a mixture of birch tar and calf grease. This smearing is repeated, if the so-called tarred Russia leather is required. All this class of goods undergoes various finishing processes to give the requisite appearance. These finishing operations are frequently repeated several times ; the dried hides are softened, kneaded, pared with a paring knife, stuffed and rolled upon grained boards to impart a given design to their surface, either fine or coarse shagreen, striped or fancy patterns ; if however a smooth or polished surface is required the face is rubbed with glass or stone. When finished the hide is slightly greased with seal grease or tallow. Black tarred goods are smeared with a mixture of tar and grease. Smooth or small grained white Russia leather is principally used for soldiers boots and cartridge pouches, trunks and bags. Red grained Russia leather is sold in Asia and also exported in considerable quantities to western Europe, where it is much prized by foreigners who call it Russia leather and use it for making a variety of small articles, such as purses and cigar cases, for which Vienna is particularly famed. Black Russia leather is dressed smooth or grained and is used by harness makers, trunk makers, coach builders, and also for making ordinary boots and shoes.​





https://www.styleforum.net/media/the-interior-of-a-filofax-organiser-in-russian-reindeer-hide.568769/

https://www.styleforum.net/media/albums/1786-russian-reindeer-hide.346942/

https://porhomme.com/2013/11/gj-cleverley-for-hodinkee-russian-reindeer-leather-straps/

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-8171-padellone-t33255.html

https://thisbugslife.com/2014/02/28/reindeer-filofaxes/

https://elitechoice.org/luxury/g-j-cleverley-crafts-goods-from-rare-leather-salvaged-from-shipwreck

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Rolex ref 6050 Bubbleback from 1948

This is a Rolex Bubbleback ref 6050 from the  year 1948 in  its purist format 

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