Sean Connery

 RIP

Tudor Black Bay collection

Like anything else for watch collector, the desire to for A new collection is always the main motivation for watch collecting.  I have started to build a small collection of the Tudor Black Bay consisting of the Tudor Harrods and the P01. I am at the cross road as to whether to continue the journey by adding the Tudor Bronze Bucherer edition as well. I know once I have added the Blue bezel Bronze, it will be a slippery road of no return, BB58,,,

Tudor Alarm reference 7926

The Tudor Advisor was first introduced in 1957 with the reference 7926, which was in production until 1968 when it was replaced by the reference 10050. This 7926  is powered by the Adolph Schild manual-winding caliber 1475 with alarm function, and it creates quite a buzz. The overall condition of the watch is very good and the bright red alarm hand pops really nicely against the original silvered dial. 

The Ref. 7926 was the first Tudor Advisor. Whilst the Cricket and Memovox used a case with two backs to amplify sound, the Advisor used an adapted Rolex Oyster case. 

Unusually for an Oyster case, neither of the crowns are signed with the iconic Rolex coronet. If the crowns are original, then both will be unsigned. The top crown wound, set and activated the alarm and the bottom crown wound the main movement and set the time. Only a few thousand Ref. 7926s were made between 1957 and 1968. 

Saw this at a vintage watch shop today and has decided to trade away my Zodiac Moonphase plus JL for this.

https://www.watchonista.com/articles/tudor-advisor-anonymity-alarming-uncovered

https://www.timepiecechronicle.com/features/2016/12/2/a-brief-history-of-the-tudor-advisor

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Harrods 79230G Special Edition

As per my earlier blog, I have placed an order for a Tudor Harrods edition. The wait usually is 9-12 months. While waiting for my order of Tudor Harrods, I have a managed to find one from Hong Kong. I have traded my Rolex gold 1002 for it to keep the number of watches down. One of my latest development in watch collection is the slow move towards Modern watches and especially towards Tudor Black Bay collection. There is a saying in Hong Kong: 早買早享受～～

Rolex Reference 1002

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 1002 was produced from the 1950s through the 1980s. It is characterized by its 34mm case and smooth bezel and is available in stainless steel, 14k gold and 18k gold. The timepiece originally featured a robust 26 jewel calibre 1560 automatic movement. Calibre 1560 possess a Rolex p/n 7980 balance assembly with a Breguet hairspring, running at 18000 bph. Some later Rolex ref 1002s feature the calibre 1570 automatic movement. Calibre 1570 was introduced in 1965 and has a balance assembly Rolex p/n 8106 with a Breguet hairspring, running at 19800 bph. The calibre 1570 automatic movement was very popular among both dress and sports Rolex models. Unfortunately, because of the movement’s popularity, many watches from the 1960s were taken apart and their movements removed and placed in other watches. Therefore, it is becoming increasingly hard to find watches, like ref 1002, unaltered. This 18k gold watch was produced in 1974.

There were many confusion between the Rolex Air King and reference 1002. There never was an Air-King 1002. There was only the Rolex 5500 Airking. The Rolex 1002 was called the Oyster Perpetual and used a chronometer certified movement (1560) while the Rolex 5500 airking used either a 1520 or less common 1530 caliber.

The watches are both 34mm, essentially use all the same parts, except the 1002 has a caliber 1560 and is COSC, and the Rolex 5500 says "Air King" on the dial, uses a 1520 or 30, and isn't COSC. 

The confusion comes from the fact that the 5500 used case backs stamped "1002". Rolex used the 1002 caseback for just about anything using a 34mm case. The exception being the 5500 Explorer which had a 5500 caseback. 

Rolex Speedking

 Rolex Speedking

Jaeger Lecoultre Master a Memovox Ref E871

This is a JAEGER LECOULTRE MASTER MEMOVOX Ref. E 871 Vintage swiss Jaeger Lecoultre alarm ref E871 circa 1970’s. Featuring a 38 X 45mm “TV screen” shaped case with beautiful original orange and charcoal dial with applied silver indexes and silver baton hands. Powered by self winding calibre 916 movement with sweep seconds and date and mechanical alarm function. The 70’s era Lecoultre alarms are a dramatic and generally less known modernist departure from the classic round case designs of the 1960’s and 1970’s.

This TV dial is so cool and see the gunmetal gray background with that tangerine orange center square which frame the rotating alarm disc. Another unique feature is the rectangular applied markers. Most of the logo is at the 12 O'clock position but this is at the nine position. When wearing the watch, it will be time to play the funky music wild boy~~

https://wannabuyawatch.com/product-category/vintage-and-pre-owned-jaeger-lecoultre/

Mido Multifort

Mido Multifort Super automatic vintage all stainless steel screwback waterproof type case, driven by a pristine A Schild Mido model 817 17 jewel bumper automatic movement, 2 tone copper military type dial. 967

MOVEMENT: Clean pristine 17 jewel A. Schild Mido model 817 bumper automatic movement is signed: "Mido Limited, seventeen 17 jewels,  817, made in Switzerland, AOC."  

CASE:  Screwback, waterproof type case measures 29.47 mm across without recessed crown, 36.60 mm lug tip to tip, and 16 mm between lugs.  Case features beautiful stepped bezel.  Case back interior is signed: " Brit pat 385509, 1042983, Mido Limited, Switzerland, rustless steel." Bezel is signed: "2983"  Back is signed: " Mido Multifort, Super Automatic, Switzerland, 220, rustless steel."  

DIAL:  Copper two tone evenly aged military type dial  features luminescent Arabic numbers, radium hour and minute hands,  lumed red sweep second, contrasting copper tone calibrated outer minute/seconds register.   Dial is signed: "Mido, Multifort ".  

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Harrods 79230G Special Edition

Ever since I have received my new Tudor P01, I have started to have a growing interest in Tudor collection. The first Tudor Heritage Black Bay was released in 2012, and since then, the Black Bay has come to become an extremely popular watch. The Black Bay Builds on the iconic dive watches from Tudor and Rolex from the 50s and 60s, and combines that with modern features. Since 2012, many new Black Bay models have been introduced, including the Black Bay Chronograph, Black Bay bronze, Black Bay Dark and many more.

Background to the Tudor Heritage Black Bay

The first Heritage Black Bay model that was released had the reference 79220, followed by a letter, representing the color of the bezel. The three colors that were available upon launch was red, black, and blue, represented by R, N, and B.

The first Black Bay featured a Tudor modified ETA movement, but in 2016, Tudor discontinued the 79220 model range and introduced a new reference, the 79230. The three watches remained in Tudor’s Black Bay lineup, but they did feature some changes from the predecessor. The biggest change was that Tudor had now fitted the watches with Manufacture Tudor in-house movements, replacing the previous ETA movements. The watch is now powered by the caliber MT5602, in-house, COSC certified – automatic winding movement.

As ETA (under the Swatch Group) has started to limit the supply of movements to other brands, many have started to develop their own In House movement. Using an in-house movement also meant positioning the Black Bay differently, as dive watches with in-house movements in that price range are relatively few.

The new reference 79230 also came with a few visual differences. The case remained the same, so did the bezel and the dial, except for the printing on the dial, which was changed in order to show that the watch now featured an in-house movement. Furthermore, Tudor’s rose logo which previously had been used was changed to Tudor’s more modern shield logo.

The watch’s thickness also increased, even though the case remained the same, in order to give room for the new movement. The newer reference is also equipped with a rivet bracelet with faux rivets, which is inspired by the rivet bracelets of the old vintage Tudor dive watches.

The case is 41mm in diameter, made in 316L stainless steel. The case contrasts brushed with polished, and has a big crown, without crown guards (like those of the Tudor 7924,  Rolex 5508, 5510, 6536, 6538). The watch is equipped with a domed sapphire crystal.

The huge success of the Black Bay model has given Tudor reason to continue building on this model and developing new variants of that watch. One of these is the special edition Harrods Black Bay reference 79230G which has come to become one of the most sought-after Black Bay models on the market.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Harrods special edition 79230G

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Harrods special edition 79230G is, as the reference suggests, built on the ”standard” Black Bay models. The Harrods special edition is a standard 79230, and the differences between this and a standard watch are all visual. Bonia and I have visited Harrods in 2017 and she has placed an order for it. I have always regretted for not placing an order and I have finally placed an order last week and I am on the waiting list now.

The regular 79230 Black Bays have different dials. While the red and black have gilt dials, the blue version has white printing, and it also has white luminous material instead of cream-colored. Lastly, the hands and outer rings on the indices are also finished in steel as opposed to 18k gold on the black and red versions.

Since the Harrods edition has a gilt dial, gold markers and hands, and cream-colored luminous material, it is most close to the black and red versions.

Key Differences :

1. The differences on the dial from these are first off that the ”600 ft: 200m” printing on the dial is printed in green instead of gold. 

2. The other visual difference that you see when looking at the dial is the second hand. Rather than being completely finished in gold, the tip of the seconds hand is painted in the same green color that you find printed on the dial, continuing on the green Harrods theme.

3. The depth rating has been changed to show “feet first” rather than meters to reflect the Britishness of Harrods.

4. The bezel is the thing that differentiates the watch the most and makes it instantly recognizable. Instead of featuring a black or red bezel, the Black Bay Harrods special edition has a striking green bezel, which is unique to this watch and cannot be found on any other Tudor watch. The watch features the iconic ”snowflake hands” that Tudor’s divers have now become known for.

5. Caseback: The last difference between the 79230G from the standard Black 79230 is that the case back has been engraved with the "H" plus the unique watch number, which represents the production number of that specific watch, as well as the text ”SPECIAL EDITION”.

The Tudor Harrods 79230g also comes with a dark fabric strap. The fabric strap that is included with the Harrods edition has a green hue, matching the green theme of the watch. In the early days of Tudor’s relaunch, up until the introduction of the new reference Black Bay, many of Tudor’s watches came with a complimentary fabric strap. Today, however, Tudor has removed the fabric strap from the set, so the only time you get the strap is when you either buy your watch solely on the strap or, purchase it separately.

Black Bay 79230G specifications

Reference: 79230G-0001

Name: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Harrods Special Edition

Launched: 2016

Limited: No, but numbered pieces

Material: Stainless steel (316L)

Glass: Sapphire crystal

Caseback: Closed. Engraved

Diameter: 41.00 mm

Lug Width: 22.00 mm

Hong Kong vintage watch

I love Hong Kong for its speed, its efficiencies, food plus it is a heaven for collectables such as vintage watches, hifi etc. There are some vintage watch shops in TST, Causeway Bay, Central, Sheung Wan, Jordan, Samsuipo etc. The prices are now following international market prices.

There is a Hong Kong tv programme featuring TIME. Managed to screen kept..

Ernest Borel Hand wind watch 1950s

This is a 1950s Ernest Borel handwind watch with date.

2020 Happy Mid Autumn Festival