Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550 (1985-1989)
In the language of watch collector, “transitional references” refer to those models that include features of preceding versions along with additional modifications that pave the way for the design of future references. Take for example the Explorer II ref. 16550 presented in 1985. With its introduction, the ref. 16550 version has a larger 40mm case size, a sapphire crystal, and Caliber 3085. Rolex also revamped the dial to look similar to other sports models with the famed Mercedes-style hands (1655 has the straight hands) and the combo of triangular, round, and rectangular lume-filled hour markers. The 24-hour hand was now also longer and thinner. In addition, Rolex also offered the Explorer II ref. 16550 with the option of a black or white dial. The bezel remained fixed and included the 24-hour scale but the design featured inverted triangles rather than sticks for odd numbers.
The Caliber 3085 movement now meant that the 24-hour hand could be adjusted independently from the traditional hour hand to point to a specific numeral on the fixed 24-hour bezel. Therefore, the Explorer II graduated from merely indicating day and night hours to a GMT watch, able to display a second time zone. With this ultra-practical move, the Explorer II was now more appealing to a larger audience of globetrotting adventurers.
Due to a paint defect, the white 16550 Explorer dials actually turned into a creamy ivory color or even lemon colour after some time. And in true vintage Rolex fashion, that “defect” commands a premium price in the market over its black dial counterpart! The Explorer II ref. 16550 was only in production for four years until 1989.
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