Rolex 18k gold GMT ref 16758 from 1981

This is a neo vintage, transitional Rolex 18k gold GMT from the 1980s. It has what I will called the volcanic tropical nipple dial and root beer bezel. Nipple dial is a term given by collector where the watch's indices are slightly pointed with made in yellow gold protruding hour markers  and they are then filled with a luminescence for legibility. It is the shape and two-toned nature of the gold vs the lume that give this style the notable features. This is my latest love…

 

Due to slight colour errors in production, a pattern of different shades of brown have been created, which makes this dial shine wonderfully and each dial may have different tropical effect.  I think the watch looks even nicer with a crocodile leather strap…

The Reference 16758 (produced from 1980–1988)  and it is a solid 18k yellow gold GMT-Master, a “transitional” piece between classic and modern Rolex. It combines vintage charm (nipple dial, classic font) with modern specs (sapphire, quickset function). The 16758 is less common than steel GMT-Masters and it is seen as undervalued

The style is no longer manufactured and it represents when the GMT Master started to be known as a luxury sports watch rather than just a utility sports watch. The Rolex ref. 16758, a highly transitional timepiece, was first introduced in 1980, shortly after the release of its stainless steel sibling the ref. 16750. This 18K yellow gold GMT-Master model was in production until 1988 and combined the latest technological advancements with classic design elements. 

Both the 16758 and 16750 featured the improved Cal. 3075 quick-set date movement, but the 16758 took it a step further with the addition of a sapphire crystal and a bidirectional click-spring bezel, which would not be seen on the stainless steel GMT-Master until the GMT-Master II ref. 16760.The ref. 16758 GMT-Master represents the perfect balance of modernity and tradition. Its advanced features increase its ease of use but it also retains the classic style of the much-admired nipple dial configuration of its predecessor.

In the 1980's the dials assumed a glossy sunburst effect. While these are striking, they don't age well. The dial tends to age and given rise to the Tropical Dial. However, the great thing is that some of the dial aged nicely.

Despite the similar look, the gold version is heavier..

The rare no crown guard Rolex 1675 in 18k gold, Root beer bezl and nipple dial plus applied crown, using 1530 movement, Plexiglass instead of Sapphire crystal

Rolex began transitioning the GMT to a 5-digit reference, and introduced modern features such as an updated movement with a quickset date feature in 1980-1. The 16758 reference used both matte dials with white gold surrounds and glossy dials, sometimes with “nipple” markers as it transitioned to the 16768. 

Rolex GMT-Master 16758 contains is a sapphire crystal. The watch was produced from roughly 1981 to 1988 and is part of the same transitional series of GMT’s we discussed when looking at the Root Beer. The Root Beer and the stainless 16750 kept their acrylic crystals from the preceding 1675 models, the Root Beer went to a printed logo instead of applied on the dial, and both gained a quickset date feature. 

The gold 16758 also dropped its applied dial logo and kept the nipple dial, but upped its sturdiness with a sapphire crystal. This crystal and the fact that this transitional is “new vintage” is a real reason that these pieces lag in value when compared to their predecessors. 

Beside the earlier nipple dial, there is another later version dial that has a similarly attractive brown tone but features larger markers and is signed “Swiss Made,” indicating it is from a later period and features Super-LumiNova lume. 

In addition to the Rootbeer bezel and dial, there are also black bezel plus black dial and also black bezel with gold dial. 

Above is another with Yellow Gold Serti Diamond Ruby dial.

Over the weekends, I was slightly lost in my watch collection direction and I was pondering my next watch acquisition. Originally, I was looking at the Lemania single button chronograph or the Blancpain fifty fathom, However,I have decided to postpone them as these watches are are too niche as ultimately, my watches will pass to Keith and it will be better if I can stay focus in building my current core collections first. 

As such, I have started to look for some unique Rolex sports watches in 18k gold and I was contemplating between the Rolex submariner 16618 or this 16758, both in 18k gold. In the end, my preference is to go for the Root beer GMT series which has a special dial and bezel  colour.

To form a small collection, I am planning to add the 18k gold Rolex 1675/8 Rootbeer with nipple dial and a Rolex 16753 (Bi Colour steel & Gold), all Root beer dial with nipple dial in the coming future....

This is a close-up photo of a vintage Rolex GMT-Master, reference 16758, in yellow gold with a "nipple" dial. The dial has aged into a beautiful tropical brown shade with reddish undertones, and the original coffee-brown bezel is intact. The watch has gold hands, applied gold hour markers, and is paired with a reddish-brown leather strap

There are several versions but I have decided on the Rootbeer bezel, nipple dial in root beer  dial. The detail & Tech Specs: 

• 18k yellow gold case
• Dial: Root beer brown volcanic dial with aged tritium luminescent “Nipple” hour markers. An important difference from the outgoing 1675/8 is the coronet is no longer applied gold like the hour markers, but gilt etched like the text and minute track
• 40mm case,. Lug to lug: 48mm; Depth Of Case: 12mm
• Sapphire crystal (first for yellow gold GMT-Master).
• Bidirectional click-spring bezel (brown “root beer” or black insert).
• Iconic “nipple dial”—applied gold hour markers, available in sunburst brown (“Root Beer”) or black but my preference is for teh Rootbeer
• Quickset date via Calibre 3075 automatic movement (first seen here in GMT models).
• Jubilee or Oyster bracelet options, gold “hidden clasp” also seen.
• Movement: Caliber 3075 self-winding movement
• COSC Chronometer
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Screw-down crown, with crown protectors
• Special Features / Complications:
• Fixed GMT Function
• Date window with Rolex “cyclopes” crystal * Open 6
• Quickset Date
• Hacking Seconds

Other similar watches 

https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-69/4/?srsltid=AfmBOopnBz6uqvxCyxQMJ9slmVvAF83Gtcg8Tu2b8zyDKTwjQQAJwqfd

Serial 7.16mio from the year 1982-3

https://en.watch-spare.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-16758-nipple-dial.html

Serial nos 6.4mio from the year 1980

https://greyandpatina.com/product/1979-rolex-16768-root-beer-gmt-w-box/

Watch from 1979

https://www.vrfm.io/gold-gmt-masters

I have sent my watch for service and I have decided to weigh the gold case...

The value of 59.7 grams of 18K gold costs about $4,855.40 USD  on the current price of $81.33 

Here are the average prices for an 18k Root Beer Rolex 16758 (head only, nipple dial) in HKD:

1. 2022: HK$208,025  

2. 2023: HK$223,725  

3. 2024: HK$235,500  

4. 2025: HK$215,875  

Prices are based on an exchange rate of about 1 USD = 7.85 HKD.

2018 wishlists revisited : Lemania Series III Royal Navy Nuclear Submarine Non-Lume Chronograph

Below is the list of Wishlist from 2018.  I have managed to find a Rolex Jump Hour Doctor watch and a Bamboo bezel Rolex 1603 and I am making progress on the search for a Lemania Nuclear submarine chronograph.

Lemania Series III Royal Navy Nuclear Submarine Non-Lume Chronograph c.1964

These very rare and special watches were issued to crew of the Royal Navy’s nuclear submarines from the early 1960s until around 1990.

For safety reasons, the radiation levels onboard nuclear submarines needed to be constantly monitored. Consequently, no luminous material was applied to the dial and hands of these chronographs so as not to affect the readings of the onboard radiation monitoring equipment.

Other than the absence of any luminous material, the Lemania Series III chronographs issued to crew of the Royal Navy’s nuclear fleet were essentially the same as those issued to pilots of the Fleet Air Arm.

The Lemania Series III differs from its earlier predecessors in that it features an asymmetrical case with an integrated crown and pusher and is powered by a rhodium-plated shock-resistant version of the 15CHT known as the calibre 2220.

The vast majority of the Lemania Series III watches issued to the Royal Navy were assigned the NATO stock number 0552/924-3306. However, and as can be seen with the example for sale, the watches issued to nuclear submarine crew had the last four digits replaced with the number “3312”, which refers to the dial and hands being non-luminous.

The single button on the side of the watch operates the chronograph (stopwatch) function. When the button is pushed it starts the centre second hand. Pressing the button again stops the hand and pressing it a third time resets the hand back to the twelve o’clock position. There is an elapsed minute counter, which allows for timing intervals of up to 30 minutes.

Sadly, the Lemania watch company is no longer in existence but it has become something of a cult brand in recent years and its watches are very much cherished by collectors. Lemania supplied a number of different armed forces from all over the world. Their movements are extremely well made and are renowned for keeping excellent time, making them a good fit for a rugged life in the services.

Lemania specialised in the production of chronographs (watches with a built-in stopwatch function). Chronographs are inherently complicated things to manufacture and for this reason, many watch companies brought in movements from specialists like Lemania. They supplied, amongst others, Omega (the movement that powered the first watch on the moon was made by Lemania), and luxury brands Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. Because Lemania often supplied movements to other brands (for which they were uncredited), watches which are signed by Lemania are especially prized.

It is believed only a few hundred Lemania Series III Non-Lume Chronographs were ever issued and good original examples are very rare and seldom offered for sale. The watch for sale, therefore, represents an excellent opportunity to acquire a highly prized and special collector’s piece. 

This is an extremely rare Royal Navy issued single-button Lemania chronograph. What makes this watch particularly rare and distinctive is that it was issued for use on board a nuclear submarine. For this reason the dial and handset features no luminous compound, which would have been radium based and so could have interfered with the radiation sensors on-board.These Nuclear Submariner’s chronographs were produced in very small numbers and are one of the most highly sought after of all military watches. 

The watch has its original dial, handset and movement and they’re in superb condition. The case is all stainless steel and is in very good order - a few scratches and marks from wear, to be expected from a tool-watch. As with all our vintage watches the case has been ultrasonically cleaned, but not polished.

The case back has the original military markings: 0552/924 is the stores code for a chronograph wristwatch, 3306 denotes a black, luminous dial. This is stuck out and re-engraved with 3312 which is the code for the Nuclear Submariner’s chronograph with no luminous compound and a white dial. The number below, 80022 is the unique identifier for this particular watch.

There are no records that I’ve seen for the total number of Nuclear Submariner’s chronographs issued, but the nuclear submarine fleet was small and so obviously the overall issue was small too. These watches would only have been issued to those whose job on-board involved making timing observations. 

The single button operates the chronograph (stop-watch function) - the button in turn starts, stops and resets the chronograph. There is an elapsed minute counter, which allows for timing intervals up to 30 minutes.

Lemania supplied chronographs for the Royal Navy for use by pilots and navigators in the late 1940s and Lemania continued supplying them until the early 1960s. The watches evolved over the years. This watch is part of the third series style as it features the distinctive asymmetric case style, designed to protect the pusher and crown from accidental damage.

Lemania supplied many different armed forces around the world - their movements are very solidly constructed and keep excellent time, making them a good fit for a rugged life in the services. Lemania are something of a cult brand - no longer in existence today, but much cherished by aficionados. The company specialised in the production of chronographs (that is watches with a stop-watch function built in). Chronographs are inherently complicated things to manufacture and for this reason many watch companies brought-in movements from specialists like Lemania. They supplied amongst others Omega (the movement that powered the first watch on the moon was made by Lemania), and luxury brands Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. Because Lemania often supplied movements to other brands (for which they were uncredited), watches which are signed by Lemania are especially prized.

The watch has been fully serviced and regulated, the chronograph functions perfectly and the time keeping is of the highest order. It is supplied with a NATO fabric strap. This is an expensive watch for sure, but an investment that can be worn and enjoyed. Prices of these have been increasing year on year as they are simply not available to buy very often.