Jaeger Lecoultre versus Lecoultre Futurematic Potholes

There are some confusion with regards to the branding of Jaeger Lecoultre versus Lecoultre for some collectors. Due to the Smoot–Hawley Tariff Act, the Futurematics for the U.S. market have a LeCoultre logo instead of Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on the dial and engraved on the calibre and the inside of the case back.

European version of Jaeger Lecoultre 37mm potholes versus uS version 35mm Lecoultre Futurematic Potholes.

The power reserve indicator for the European version is dark blue while the US version is in red.

I have started to form a small collection of vintage Jaeger Lecoultre watch with a focus on the Memovox with special dials and the Futurematic in potholes. I am super glad that I am able to find the 37mm blue lapis dial Memovox in gold and steel. There is one more in brown dial which I hope to find in the future. 

I have another Vacheron and Jaeger dual name Mystery dial as well as a Military Jaeger. Hope to slowly grow my collection.

Gubelin triple calendar Moonphase watch from 1950s-60s

This is a Gubelin triple calendar Moonphase watch from the 1950-60s. It is an automatic watch with a desirable jumbo 37.5 mm size.

Gübelin, is often referred to as a Swiss version of Tiffany & Co., has worked with various Swiss watch manufactures to create gorgeous gentleman's pieces replete with form and function.  This Moonphase is using a Felsa triple calendar moonphase movement. While we occasionally find pieces signed by Gübelin, it is a true rarity to find one manufactured specifically for them - let alone a triple calendar with one of our favorite complications... a moonphase watch !

Monday, October 27, 2014

Gubelin moonphase

Vintage Gubelin SS Triple Date Moonphase Automatic

Sun, 03 February 2013 11:32

Gubelin is one of Europe's leading retailers of fine jewelry and high grade timepieces, and has often colloborated with the finest Swiss watchmakers (examples  Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet) in the production of watches under their name.

I have always love the large Moonphase watches especially those automatic ones. found a 1950's vintage high-grade 25 jewel double-adjusted triple date moonphase automatic with horn lugs when I visited Cheong gor. It has a Large  37mm stainless steel screw back case with four calendar and moonphase push buttons and fancy horn lugs , signed 25 jewel double adjusted triple date calendar moonphase automatic movement (Felsa calibre 693), near-mint signed silver satin dial with full arabic numeral markers, day and month apertures at 12:00 with moonphase aperture at 6:00, steel hands and sweep seconds with arrow-tipped date hand pointing out outer date chapter ring, acrylic crystal, 20mm black leather strap. 

The great thing about the Gubelin Moonphase is in its size as its about the same size as the 8171making it a desirable size to view the details. I didn't know the rarity of this watch after I start searching for it online. 

The calibre 693 was part of the second generation Bidynator automatics produced by Felsa, starting in the late 1940's, and was the most complicated movement of this series. The Bidynator series was the first automatic movement to wind in both directions, and represented a milestone in the development of the automatic wristwatch. Really love the case design, size, and the Moonphase.

Rolex Explorer 2 ref 16570 version 1 from 1991

This is my second Rolex Explorer 2. I named it Black Adam, a Rolex black dial 16570 X series Explorer 2 from the year 1991. I think it can be considered a vintage watch now since it’s 31 years old.  The Rolex Explorer two has a few series ranging from the Swiss T <25, Swiss, to the last series Swiss Made as it was produced from 1989-2011 with calibers 3185,3186.

16570 Version 1 – (1989-1997) Features “SWISS – T<25” Dial, 3185 movement, drilled lugs case, pressure 93159 bracelet clasp 501B
16570 Version 2 – (1998/1999 features “SWISS” Only Dial, 3185 movement, drilled lugs, locking bracelet clasp. Around 1999 (in the midst of the A series), the bracelet was updated with the Solid-End-Link (SEL) )
16570 Version 3 – (1999-2005) features “SWISS MADE” Dial, 3185 movement, drilled lugs, or no-holes case, 78790A bracelet
16570 Version 4 – (2005-2011) features “SWISS MADE Dial, 3186 movement, no holes case, rehaut, solid endlinks, 78790A locking bracelet clasp

I have to trade away a Rolex 6605 and a Bubbleback plus cash top up for this version 1, Explorer 2. According to some collectors, the early version has good chances of discolouration of the lume and dial, thereby making it more desirable for some collectors.

Please read https://www.beyondthedial.com/post/collector-guide-the-rolex-explorer-ii-all-references-in-detail/

Long wait for delivery for my Jaeger Lecoultre Pothole from US

This must be my longest wait for a delivery of watch from the US. In addition, the process of purchase is also complicated as the seller offers no overseas sales. As such, I shall need to get a friend's help to receive the watch in US and then reshipped it to me.

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Rolex Datejust 1607 vs 1601

These are vintage Rolex Datejust 1607 vs 1601 in solid 18k yellow gold from the 1960s. I have always love blue dial watches. For Many of the vintage 1960-70s watches, blue dial tends to deteriorate irregardless of the Brand’s. Nevertheless, some deterioration can also add uniqueness to the watch and become what some collectors called the star dusts dial.

古董勞力士Ref 5050 鋼棺財仔, 操兵數字面

古董勞力士鋼棺財仔, 操兵數字面 from 1948

Universal Genève compax 32417 Jumbo 38mm size

The Uiniversal Genève Compax comes from the heyday of Universal Geneve, the 1940s. It is an ode to what makes an awesome chronograph, with both functionality and legibility. This model was first introduced in 1935 and was produced in multiple case and dial configurations. Universal Genève compax 32417. This is a Jumbo 38mm size with 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hour counter, small seconds at 9 o’clock, Tachymeterscale, signed: “Universal Geneve Compax” Movement Gold-plated manually wound movement with column wheel chronograph and Breguet-hairspring Cal. 287 Ref. 32417  Diameter 38mm Year ca. 1946

Jaeger LeCoultre Futurematic reference E 502 cal. 817 watch from 1956

As previously mentioned, there are two broad designs for the Futurematic : one with the normal sub-dials and another with the rarer portholes sub-dials. This is a Jaeger LeCoultre Futurematic reference E 502 using cal. 817 watch from the year 1956. It has the porthole sub-dials design, and the watch is in stainless steel. The watch was made for the European market, and it is considered a jumbo size with its 37mm diameter. The Jaeger-LeCoultre signed Futurematics all came in a large 37mm case while the US LeCoultre version was slightly smaller at 35mm both having the setting crown integrated on the case back as there was no provision for hand-winding the watch. 

The E502 size is bigger than the 501 by 1 mm. Due to the Smoot–Hawley Tariff Act, the Futurematics for the U.S. market have a LeCoultre logo instead of Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on the dial and engraved on the calibre and the inside of the case back.

As my resource is limited, for the Futurematic series, I have decided to focus only on the Porthole sub-dial design as it was highlighting the future and was full of innovation. It’s strange as I have managed to find this Non-US, European edition Futurematic with “Jaeger Lecoultre” instead of LeCoultre, from Rochester New York, USA.  

As the seller is unwilling to ship overseas, I shall need to trouble my friend Yin Yin from LA to help receive the watch and then resend it to Hong Kong. I must say I am really happy with the find as it’s quite rare to find a steel version of the Futurematic E502 Porthole. Really grateful as I am rather late in collecting vintage Jaeger watches. The Potholes version were produced in 3500 examples it is believed that no more than 500 were used for the European market using the JLC signature instead of LeCoultre” for the US market. 

For the Potholes version, both calibers 817 & 837 were used. The only differences between the cal 837 and 817 are as follows:
1. The 837 was never sold with US LeCoultre branding, like the 817. 
2. The color of the power reserve porthole was dark grey on the 837 and red on the 817.
3. The engravings on the plate. The JLC versions of these models did not have the caliber number engraved on the rotors. They were all interchangeable. 

I have showed the photos of the Jaeger Lecoultre E502 Pothole design to Keith, and I am glad that he loves the classic design too. For me, the Jaeger Lecoultre or Lecoultre, Pothole design is the essence of the Futurematic. I am now waiting eagerly for the watch to travel from New York to LA and then to Hong Kong. 

One of the key differences is the Futurematic logo

Please read :

https://montrespubliques.com/new-1minute-reads/did-the-futurematic-almost-bankrupt-jaeger-lecoultre

This is a nice watch with bracelet.

https://www.horare.com/products/1950s-jaeger-lecoultre-futurematic-porthole-e502

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-nov-15

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-vintage-watch-wishlist-for-november/#gref