Rolex Hooded Bubbleback ref 3064 from 1938

The Rolex "Bubbleback" ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds is a highly collectible and historically significant watch. It's often called the watch that saved Rolex and established the foundation for the modern Oyster Perpetual line.

The Bubbleback, produced from the 1930s to the 1950s, was Rolex's first serially produced automatic (or "Perpetual") wristwatch. Its nickname comes from the distinctive curved case back that bulged out to accommodate the oversized rotor of the early automatic movement. This "bubble" was necessary to give the rotor enough space to swing freely.

The Ref. 3064 is one of the earlier and more classic Bubbleback models.

Key Features of the Rolex Ref. 3064 (with Subsidiary Seconds)

When you specify "subsidiary seconds," is a key differentiator from the more common center-seconds Bubblebacks.

1. The Case & "Hooded" Lugs:

· "Hooded" Lugs: This is a defining feature. The lugs are not separate entities welded to the case but are instead carved from the same block of steel or gold as the mid-case. They curve sharply downward, "hugging" or "hooding" the wrist, which gives the watch a very distinctive, integrated, and robust look. This design provides a very secure fit on the wrist.

· Material: Typically found in stainless steel, yellow gold, or pink gold (Rolex called it "pink" at the time).

· Size: Small by modern standards, usually around 31-32mm in diameter. This was a standard men's size in the 1940s.

· Oyster Case: As with all Oysters, it features the patented screw-down crown and case back, making it highly water-resistant for its time.

2. The Dial (A Critical Element):

· Subsidiary Seconds: Instead of a central seconds hand, the seconds hand is on a small sub-dial at 6 o'clock. This layout is often considered more elegant and traditional, and it is less common than the center-seconds version on Bubblebacks, making it more desirable to collectors.

· Dial Designs: You will find several variations:

  · Two-Tone ("Bicolor"): The most iconic look for this model. The outer track (with the minute markers) is a silvery or champagne color, while the inner sector is a darker, contrasting color like black or deep brown.

  · Solid Color: Silver, black, or champagne.

  · Indices: Often featured applied gold or steel Arabic numerals (3, 6, 9, 12) with baton or dagger markers for the other hours. Some had all Arabic numerals or all batons.

  · Patina: It is absolutely expected and desirable for these dials to have developed a patina. This can include a creamy tone (tropicalization), light cracking ("spider-webbing"), and fading. A pristine, original dial is extremely rare.

3. The Movement:

· The Ref. 3064 was powered by the Rolex Caliber 59. This was a robust, 19-jewel automatic movement based on a A. Schild ebauche.

· The "Bubbleback" case back was specifically designed for this movement and its successors (like the Cal. 9 3/4"' and Cal. 10 1/2"').

4. Crystal:

· Originally fitted with a Plexiglass (acrylic) crystal that has a distinct dome, contributing to the vintage charm.

Why is it Collectible?

· Historical Significance: It's the progenitor of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line.

· Distinctive Design: The "bubble" case back and "hooded" lugs are unique and instantly recognizable.

· Charm and Patina: Its small size and vintage character offer a classic aesthetic that modern watches often lack.

· Relative Rarity: The subsidiary seconds version is less common than the center-seconds models.

What to Look For When Buying One

If you are considering purchasing a Ref. 3064, be very careful:

1. Authenticity: The market has many frankens and redials. Buy from a reputable dealer.

2. Condition: Look for a case that has not been over-polished. Sharp, defined "hooded" lugs are a sign of a well-preserved case. Over-polishing flattens the lugs and reduces the value.

3. Originality: The most important factor for value. An original, untouched dial with even patina is far more valuable than a refinished "like-new" dial. The hands should also be original and match the patina of the dial.

4. Function: The movement should be serviced and running well. Parts for these old movements can be difficult to source.

The Rolex Bubbleback Ref. 3064 with subsidiary seconds and hooded lugs is a cornerstone of vintage Rolex collecting. It represents a perfect blend of groundbreaking technology (the automatic Oyster case) and a charming, distinct design that is unmistakably from the 1940s. It's a watch with immense character and a direct link to the history that made Rolex the giant it is today. Throughout the years of collecting, I have managed to find 5 Rolex  hooded watches of various dials and the rolex hooded 3064 with subsidiary seconds will fit nicely to my small collections of hooded bubbleback.

Universal Geneve Polerouter

The Universal Genève Polerouter is a legendary watch, highly respected by collectors and enthusiasts for its design, innovation, and historical significance. It's often considered one of the best-value vintage watches from the "Golden Age" of horology.

The Core Story: A Watch Born from Aviation

The Polerouter's origin story is a key part of its charm. In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) inaugurated its "Polar Route," a revolutionary commercial flight path from Copenhagen to Los Angeles that flew over the North Pole.

· The Commission: SAS commissioned a robust, accurate, and anti-magnetic watch for the pilots and crew of these historic flights.

· The Designer: The task of designing this watch was given to a young, 23-year-old Gérald Genta, who would later become the most famous watch designer in history, creating icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

· The Name: Originally named the "Polarouter," it was later stylized to "Polerouter."

Key Highlights and Why It's So Coveted

1. The Design (by Gérald Genta)

The Polerouter features a brilliant, space-saving design that was ahead of its time.

· "Bombé" Lugs: The lugs curve downward sharply, hugging the wrist for a comfortable and secure fit. This is a signature feature of the early models.

· Integrated Case and Dial: The design feels cohesive, with the case, lugs, and dial elements working in harmony.

· Distinctive Dial Variations: Polerouters came with a variety of stunning dials, including:

  · "Honeycomb" or "Grid" Dial: The most famous and sought-after version, with a textured pattern that plays beautifully with light.

  · Tropical Dials: Some black dials have faded to a rich chocolate brown over time, highly prized by collectors.

  · Gilt Dials: Featuring glossy black backgrounds with gold-applied indices and text.

  · Simple Sunburst or Matte Dials: Elegant and clean.

2. The Movement: The Micro-Rotor Revolution

This is the Polerouter's technical masterpiece. Universal Genève equipped many models with the UG Caliber 138SS.

· Innovation: The Cal. 138SS was one of the first commercially successful automatic wristwatch movements to feature a micro-rotor.

· What is a Micro-rotor? Instead of a large, full-radius rotor that obscures the movement, the micro-rotor is a small rotor set into the movement's bridgework. This allowed Universal Genève to create a watch that was both automatic and incredibly thin. There are 4 main calibers namely calibers 69,72,215, 218.

· Significance: This was a major engineering achievement in the 1950s, putting the Polerouter at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Later versions (like the Polerouter Date) used the Cal. 218 series, another highly regarded micro-rotor movement.

Popular Models and References

The Polerouter was produced in several iterations throughout the 1950s and 1960s. The most common and collectible are:

1. Polerouter "Original" (Ref. 20217): The classic, no-date model with bombé lugs and a sub-seconds dial. The quintessential Genta design.

2. Polerouter Date (Ref. 20239): Adds a date window, often with a "Super-Style" case that is slightly less pronounced than the original bombé lugs.

3. Polerouter "Sub" (Ref. 21585-1): A sporty, water-resistant model with a rotating bezel, crown guards, and superior water resistance. A true tool watch.

4. Polerouter Jet (Ref. 20248): A dressier version with sharp, straight lugs.

Buying a Vintage Polerouter: What to Look For

The Polerouter market has heated up in recent years, but it still offers incredible value compared to other Genta-designed watches.

Considerations:

· Condition is King: Look for a watch with a clean, unpolished case that still has sharp lines. The lugs are often over-polished, which devalues the watch.

· The Dial is Everything: An original, untouched dial with a beautiful patina (like a well-aged honeycomb) is the most important factor. Beware of refinished or repainted dials.

· Movement: Ensure it's running well. Service costs for these micro-rotor movements can be higher than for standard movements, so factor that in.

· Authenticity: Check that the dial, hands, and case reference numbers are consistent and correct for the model. The crown should be a UG-signed crown.

Price Range:

You can find entry-level Polerouter Dates for $1,000 - $2,000. A clean "Original" with a honeycomb dial will typically be in the $2,500 - $4,500+ range. Exceptional examples, like a Polerouter Sub or a perfect tropical dial, can command $5,000+.

Comparison to Competitors

In its era, the Polerouter competed with watches like the:

· Omega Constellation: Also a high-end, chronometer-grade watch. The Polerouter often has a more distinct, avant-garde design.

· Rolex Datejust: A more mainstream and robust luxury watch. The Polerouter is more niche, innovative, and design-focused.

The Universal Genève Polerouter is a perfect storm of what makes a vintage watch great:

· A fantastic story (Polar flight).

· Legendary designer (Young Gérald Genta).

· Technical innovation (Micro-rotor movement).

· Timeless, beautiful design.

It's a watch that offers a direct connection to a pivotal moment in both watchmaking and aviation history, and it remains a wearable, elegant, and deeply cool timepiece today. I am slowly building my small collection of vintage Universal geneve watches with the 18k Tri Compx, and a few special dials Universal Geneve.

Caliber 218

Vintage Orator Triple calendars Moonphase watch made for the Chinese markets

This is a vintage Orator Triple calendars moonphase watch made for the Chinese markets. The dial is written in Chinese characters as well as the day and dates are in Chinese.

古董1940-50s年代瑞士Orator 月相表

Rolex 6202 Turn O Graph

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph reference 6202 is a watch of immense historical significance, often overshadowed by the legendary models it helped spawn. It's a true "missing link" in the Rolex catalog.

The "Father" of Two Icons

The most critical thing to understand about the ref. 6202 is that it was the first Rolex Oyster chronometer wristwatch to feature a rotating bezel. This single innovation laid the groundwork for two of the most famous watch families in the world:

1. The Rolex Submariner: The 6202 directly evolved into the Submariner ref. 6204/6205 just a year later.

2. The Rolex GMT-Master: The "Turn-O-Graph" name was later used for a Datejust model with a rotating bezel, which was the basis for the first GMT-Master ref. 6542.

Key Features and Specifications of the Ref. 6202

· Reference Number: 6202

· Production Year: 1953 (making it one year older than the first Submariner).

· Case: 36mm stainless steel Oyster case. This is the same size as the contemporary Datejust and Explorer.

· The Bezel: This is the star of the show.

  · It's a bidirectional rotating bezel (it could turn both clockwise and counter-clockwise).

  · It featured a black bakelite (plastic) insert with a red triangle and 15-minute numerals. This is the same fragile material used on the first GMT-Masters.

  · The bezel was functional, intended for timing events, calculating speed, or any other elapsed-time measurement.

· Dial: Typically a black "glossy gilt" dial. The printing was in gold, applied over a glossy black lacquer background. Common configurations included:

  · "Officially Certified Chronometer" text at the bottom.

  · "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" on the dial (it did not yet have the "Submariner" name).

  · Gilt "Mercedes" hands and a "pencil" or "lollipop" seconds hand.

· Movement: Automatic Caliber A.260 (or A.296). A high-quality, chronometer-grade movement but not the later, more robust Caliber 1030 used in the first Submariners.

· Crystal: Plexiglass (acrylic).

· Bracelet: Likely offered on a riveted Oyster bracelet or a leather strap.

The Historical Context and Confusion

The story of the 6202 is complex and intertwined with the birth of the Submariner:

· The "Submariner Before the Submariner": When the 6202 was released in 1953, the name "Submariner" did not appear on the dial. It was marketed as a versatile sports watch for professionals and the general public. Its 100m water resistance and rotating bezel made it a natural for diving, even if it wasn't exclusively a dive watch.

· The Arrival of the Submariner: In 1954, Rolex introduced the reference 6204 and 6205, which were nearly identical to the 6202 but were now officially named "Submariner" on the dial. The key differences were minor, like the movement (Caliber 1030) and slightly improved water resistance on some models.

· The Name Lives On: The "Turn-O-Graph" name didn't disappear. In the late 1950s, Rolex repurposed it for a new model based on the Datejust (ref. 1625 and others), which featured a rotating bezel and became famously known as the "Thunderbird" after the U.S. Air Force demonstration squadron adopted it.

Why is the Rolex 6202 So Collectible?

1. Progenitor Status: It is the absolute beginning of the line for both the Submariner and the functional rotating bezel on a Rolex Oyster.

2. Rarity: It was produced for a very short period (only about a year) before being replaced by the named Submariner models. Finding a genuine, unmolested 6202 is extremely difficult.

3. Historical Significance: Owning a 6202 is like owning a piece of watchmaking history. It represents a pivotal moment of innovation at Rolex.

Comparison: Turn-O-Graph 6202 vs. First Submariner (6204/6205)

Feature Rolex Turn-O-Graph 6202 (1953) Rolex Submariner 6204/6205 (1954)

Dial Text "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" "Submariner"

Bezel Bidirectional, Bakelite Insert Bidirectional, Bakelite Insert

Movement Caliber A.260 / A.296 Caliber 1030

Water Resistance ~100m / 330ft 100m (6204) / 200m (6205)

Status The Prototype / Pre-Submariner The First Official Submariner

Conclusion

The Rolex Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 is not just a watch; it's an origin story. It's the foundational model upon which Rolex built its entire tool-watch dynasty. For serious collectors, it represents the holy grail of vintage Rolex sports models—a rare and historically pivotal timepiece that marks the dawn of the Submariner era.

Rolex ref 3265 hand wind watch with subsidiary seconds from 1954

This is a rare early Rolex small three-hand manual-winding watch the ref. 3265. It features a rare cylindrical case, cut from a cylindrical tube into a circular cross-section, with straight lugs. The dial is solid-colored. The crown emblem and hour markers are meticulously embossed, cleverly avoiding overlap with the small seconds hand. This highly original watch features a rare and minimalist mechanical construction.

The case boasts exquisite proportions and sharp angles. This precious Rolex cylindrical case retains its original proportions. The dial has aged and the warm cream color lends it a vintage feel. It is equipped with the Caliber 710, a cornerstone of this generation of movements. With a power reserve of 45 hours, this is a refined vintage Rolex watch suitable for everyday wear. The watch was previously selling in US and some how ended in Hong Kong.

J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era

This is a J.W. Benson London Silver case military trench cushion watch in EWO Art Deco era. I first say this watch model at the Good Old Days antqiue watch shop at Lucky Plaza in 1987-88 when I first started watch collection. I have gave it a missed as I was focusing on Rolex Vintage bubbleback then. After 37 years, I have finally got one for old time sake.

1. J.W. Benson - The Maker : This is a key part of the watch's prestige.

· Reputation: J.W. Benson was a highly respected London-based watch and clock maker, founded in 1749. They were a "Purveyor to the Royal Household," meaning they supplied goods to the British Royal Family, a mark of exceptional quality and reputation.

· Quality: Benson was known for producing high-grade, precision instruments. Their military watches would have been built to withstand harsh conditions and keep accurate time, which was crucial for coordination in warfare.

2. "Trench Watch" - The Military Context : This is the historical heart of the watch. Trench watches, also called "wristlets" in their day, were a transitional style from the pocket watch.

· Origin: During World War I (1914-1918), soldiers found pocket watches impractical in the trenches. They began fitting them into crude metal cups with wire lugs and strapping them to their wrists for quick time-checking.

· Standardized Features: Watchmakers like Benson soon produced dedicated trench watches with:

  · Luminous Numerals: Radium-based paint on the hands and numerals for reading in the dark. 

  · Porcelain Enamel Dials: White, highly legible dials that were resistant to moisture and corrosion. Many featured a "shrapnel guard," a raised, curved piece of glass over the crystal.

  · Wire Lugs: The early, distinctive style of lugs that were soldered onto a converted pocket watch case.

  · Crown at 3 O'Clock: This was the new standard, moving away from the pocket watch's crown at 12 o'clock.

3. Silver Case - The Material. A silver case signifies a higher-quality timepiece, likely intended for an officer.

· Officer's Watch: While some trench watches were base metal, a silver case was more expensive and durable, often purchased by officers.

· Hallmarks: This is crucial. Inside the case back, you should find British Hallmarks. These will tell you:

  · The Assay Office: A leopard's head for London.

  · The Date Letter: A specific letter in a font/shield that denotes the year it was assayed.

  · The Maker's Mark: Benson's mark (likely "J.W.B" within a shield).

  · The Silver Standard: The lion passant (for .925 sterling silver).

    These hallmarks can precisely date your watch to a specific year, confirming its Art Deco era origin.

4. Cushion Case - The Form. The cushion case is a quintessential shape of the era.

· Design Evolution: It was a natural evolution from the round pocket watch, squaring off the edges to create a more modern, geometric form that sat well on the wrist.

· Art Deco Connection: The geometric cushion shape is a classic Art Deco motif, bridging the gap between the ornate Edwardian styles and the sleek, machine-age aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s.

5. Art Deco Era - The Design Period : The Art Deco period (roughly 1920-1939) perfectly overlaps with the later years of the trench watch's popularity and its evolution into the modern wristwatch.

· Stylistic Influence: On a watch, Art Deco is characterized by:

  · Geometric Shapes: The cushion case itself.

  · Stepped Designs: Cases or lugs with layered, stepped profiles.

  · Elegant Typography: Numerals that are more stylized and linear than their earlier, more ornate counterparts.

  · Contrast: Bold, legible designs with high contrast.

This is a truly special and collectible watch with a story spanning from the trenches of Europe to the jazz-age elegance of the Art Deco period.A rare early example of a ‘waterproof’ watch designed by Francois Borgel and retailed by JW Benson. A striking similarity to the cushion Rolex Oyster watch of the same period! 

Seiko 5625-7070 Gold cap Hi Beat

Seiko 5625-7070 Gold cap Hi Beat

This watch, produced around the 1970s, is a key model in Seiko's history and is now very popular among vintage watch collectors.

Watch Basic Information

· Model: 5625-7070

· Series: Seiko 5

· Production Year: Circa 1970s

· Movement: Seiko 5625 Automatic

· This is a very reliable and durable movement.

· Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

· Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Appearance and Design Features

1. Iconic Case: The classic 1970s "abalone" case, with its rounded lines and a strong, one-piece design, is highly recognizable.

2. Dial: Typically silver or dark gray, with distinctive hand and hour marker designs, it exudes the rugged style of a tool watch.