Vintage watch experience 古董手錶

Thursday, 14 August 2025

Restoration of an old Rolex GMT Ref 16753 from 1984

In the past, I was not really attracted to the Rolex GMT root beer brown dial until I saw the gold 16758. following my acquisition of the Rolex GMT Root beer ref 16758 in 18k gold, I have decided to form a small collection of the Rolex GMT Root beer series. This is the half gold (Gold & Steel) version with the early brown nipple dial. While most GMT-Master watches feature bezels in black, blue, and red tones, ref. 16753 opts for shades of brown and cream.

The Rolex GMT-Master 16753 is a special two-toned variant of the Rolex GMT-Master 16750. Ref 16753 offers a mix of stainless steel and yellow gold. However, the watch’s brown dial and two tone bezel are what really draw the eye.

Hollywood’s icon and luxury watch aficionado Clint Eastwood was known to wear the Root Beer Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16753 both on and off the big screen, also earning it the nickname “Clint Eastwood Rolex.”

His two-tone GMT-Master appeared on Eastwood’s wrist in 1982’s Firefox, 1984’s Tightrope, and 1993’s In The Line Of Fire. While Clint Eastwood has been in roughly 60 films, his Rolex is almost as famous as him in many watch-collecting circles, making the watch even more collectible. The Rolex GMT-Master 16753 was produced from 1979 to 1988. It is generally considered a desirable and collectible model, especially with the "Root Beer" color scheme and the early nipple dial.

The Rolex GMT-Master 16753 "Root Beer" started with the brown dial featuring “nipple hour markers” in the early 1980s. Around the mid to late 1980s, Rolex shifted the dial style to the *non-nipple (flat luminous markers) design before discontinuing the 16753 in the late 1980s to make way for the 16713. So, the nipple dial changed to the non-nipple dial roughly between 1985 and 1987.

Before & After

From the techinical point of view, the 16753, 5-digit series was the first generation of Rolex GMT watches to use a 3000 series movement – the caliber 3075. It replaced the caliber 1575 used in the 4-digit series featuring a higher frequency of 28,800 bph, up from 19,800 bph and it also includes a Quickset date, which allows the wearer to set the calendar complication while the crown is in the second position instead of winding the crown a full 24 hours plus a sapphire crystal.

The Rolex 16753 is available with either a black dial or brown dial, the watch could be chosen with either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Today, it’s the brown dial model that holds our interest. The dial contains a printed crown logo versus the earlier version’s applied logo. and the brown dial is metallic and it tended to change colours. Many early Root Beers bezel were all brown, but the Rolex 16753 has a nice contrasting tan and brown bezel that’s bisected.

After much consideration, I have decided to restore the watch to its glory by servicing the watch plus replacing the dial with an original spare dial and get a new old stock bezel as well.

Luckily, I was able to find a nice original dial for replacement if necessary

Friday, 8 August 2025

Vintage Titus Calypsomatic

The Titus Calypsomatic is a hidden gem for divers watch and their prices has been escalating years after years. One of the key reason is due to its large 38mm size plus the black gilt dial and the huge winding crown. It has the look and feel of the Rolex 5508 and has the big screw down crown as added features.

For those who don’t want to pay high prices for a Rolex 5508 can get this as a good alternative.It has a pair of interesting hands plus a lollipop second hands too. It is a used TOOL watch. This is a Vintage Titus Calypsomatic Diver watch with the BIG winding crown that needs restoration. The crystal and hands shall need to be replaced too.

Before & After

The dial condition is fine

The movement is intact

After servicing the watch and Installed a used Crystal while waiting for the new one to arrive.

It has an alternate Blue and Red dates

Waiting to replace the hands

This is my fifth Titus Calysomatic watch and I love restoring vintage itus diver watches so that it can continue to function for another 50 years or more.

Thursday, 31 July 2025

Rolex 18k gold GMT ref 16758 from 1981

This is a neo vintage, transitional Rolex 18k gold GMT from the 1980s. It has what I will called the volcanic tropical nipple dial and root beer bezel. Nipple dial is a term given by collector where the watch's indices are slightly pointed with made in yellow gold protruding hour markers and they are then filled with a luminescence for legibility. It is the shape and two-toned nature of the gold vs the lume that give this style the notable features. This is my latest love…

Due to slight colour errors in production, a pattern of different shades of brown have been created, which makes this dial shine wonderfully and each dial may have different tropical effect. I think the watch looks even nicer with a crocodile leather strap…

The Reference 16758 (produced from 1980–1988) and it is a solid 18k yellow gold GMT-Master, a “transitional” piece between classic and modern Rolex. It combines vintage charm (nipple dial, classic font) with modern specs (sapphire, quickset function). The 16758 is less common than steel GMT-Masters and it is seen as undervalued

The style is no longer manufactured and it represents when the GMT Master started to be known as a luxury sports watch rather than just a utility sports watch. The Rolex ref. 16758, a highly transitional timepiece, was first introduced in 1980, shortly after the release of its stainless steel sibling the ref. 16750. This 18K yellow gold GMT-Master model was in production until 1988 and combined the latest technological advancements with classic design elements.

Both the 16758 and 16750 featured the improved Cal. 3075 quick-set date movement, but the 16758 took it a step further with the addition of a sapphire crystal and a bidirectional click-spring bezel, which would not be seen on the stainless steel GMT-Master until the GMT-Master II ref. 16760.The ref. 16758 GMT-Master represents the perfect balance of modernity and tradition. Its advanced features increase its ease of use but it also retains the classic style of the much-admired nipple dial configuration of its predecessor.

In the 1980's the dials assumed a glossy sunburst effect. While these are striking, they don't age well. The dial tends to age and given rise to the Tropical Dial. However, the great thing is that some of the dial aged nicely.

Despite the similar look, the gold version is heavier..

The rare no crown guard Rolex 1675 in 18k gold, Root beer bezl and nipple dial plus applied crown, using 1530 movement, Plexiglass instead of Sapphire crystal

Rolex began transitioning the GMT to a 5-digit reference, and introduced modern features such as an updated movement with a quickset date feature in 1980-1. The 16758 reference used both matte dials with white gold surrounds and glossy dials, sometimes with “nipple” markers as it transitioned to the 16768.

Rolex GMT-Master 16758 contains is a sapphire crystal. The watch was produced from roughly 1981 to 1988 and is part of the same transitional series of GMT’s we discussed when looking at the Root Beer. The Root Beer and the stainless 16750 kept their acrylic crystals from the preceding 1675 models, the Root Beer went to a printed logo instead of applied on the dial, and both gained a quickset date feature.

The gold 16758 also dropped its applied dial logo and kept the nipple dial, but upped its sturdiness with a sapphire crystal. This crystal and the fact that this transitional is “new vintage” is a real reason that these pieces lag in value when compared to their predecessors.

Beside the earlier nipple dial, there is another later version dial that has a similarly attractive brown tone but features larger markers and is signed “Swiss Made,” indicating it is from a later period and features Super-LumiNova lume.

In addition to the Rootbeer bezel and dial, there are also black bezel plus black dial and also black bezel with gold dial.

Above is another with Yellow Gold Serti Diamond Ruby dial.

Over the weekends, I was slightly lost in my watch collection direction and I was pondering my next watch acquisition. Originally, I was looking at the Lemania single button chronograph or the Blancpain fifty fathom, However,I have decided to postpone them as these watches are are too niche as ultimately, my watches will pass to Keith and it will be better if I can stay focus in building my current core collections first.

As such, I have started to look for some unique Rolex sports watches in 18k gold and I was contemplating between the Rolex submariner 16618 or this 16758, both in 18k gold. In the end, my preference is to go for the Root beer GMT series which has a special dial and bezel colour.

To form a small collection, I am planning to add the 18k gold Rolex 1675/8 Rootbeer with nipple dial and a Rolex 16753 (Bi Colour steel & Gold), all Root beer dial with nipple dial in the coming future....

This is a close-up photo of a vintage Rolex GMT-Master, reference 16758, in yellow gold with a "nipple" dial. The dial has aged into a beautiful tropical brown shade with reddish undertones, and the original coffee-brown bezel is intact. The watch has gold hands, applied gold hour markers, and is paired with a reddish-brown leather strap

There are several versions but I have decided on the Rootbeer bezel, nipple dial in root beer dial. The detail & Tech Specs:

18k yellow gold case
Dial: Root beer brown volcanic dial with aged tritium luminescent “Nipple” hour markers. An important difference from the outgoing 1675/8 is the coronet is no longer applied gold like the hour markers, but gilt etched like the text and minute track
40mm case,. Lug to lug: 48mm; Depth Of Case: 12mm
Sapphire crystal (first for yellow gold GMT-Master).
Bidirectional click-spring bezel (brown “root beer” or black insert).
Iconic “nipple dial”—applied gold hour markers, available in sunburst brown (“Root Beer”) or black but my preference is for teh Rootbeer
Quickset date via Calibre 3075 automatic movement (first seen here in GMT models).
Jubilee or Oyster bracelet options, gold “hidden clasp” also seen.
Movement: Caliber 3075 self-winding movement